Permanent Adhesive? ......

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atom3624

Well-Known Member
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8,284
Location
Cold, wet, windy St Helens, U.K.
I'm sure it's happened with many, if not most of you who don't use beadlocks, but I'm tired of having to clean, re-trim and re-cement tyres onto my FG MT.

I've tried Proline Medium - slightly viscous CA cement, which permits movement, to really work the rim in.
I've tried the SUPERTHIN HPI CA cement, which gets EVERYWHERE!!

I decided to do some Google research for a really strong adhesive that will bond alloy to rubber - I run alloy wheels on my MT.

I came across E6000 'Industrial Strength' contact adhesive.
This is potentially petrol and UV sensitive, but is VERY strong once bonded with a required breaking force of 3500 pounds / square inch, and UNLIKE CA adhesives, is elastic. This means it will hold the tyre, take the shocks theoretically, and NOT break, like CA will.

There is an alternative called E6800 that resists UV as well, but I'm trying out the E6000 first.

I took advantage of the 8-hole FG wheel design - my alloys are near-identical except don't have the bolts around the centre - and used 530mm cable ties to spread the load evenly around the rim and pull the new MCD chevron tyres I found into the beads.

I left these for 3 days and systematically removed the cable ties.
First impessions are excellent - EXTREMELY strong - I can't move the tyre 1mm, and flashing is both transparent and can be removed like UHU!!
'Blobs' can be pulled and cut off, and excess on tyres simply rubs off with the finger.
Al.
 
wish you had posted this a week ago mate i just glued some pmt's onto a set of touring car rims with ca super glue what a shite job 3 came out perfect but one just wouldnt stick and i ended up with it everywhere over the tyres sidewall never mind they will be trashed after a hours use anyway lol
 
Boil them up, remove the crappy CA glue, then soak for 2 days in 'a covering' of Acetone - £20 / 10L from Ebay - then get this stuff.

I can't vouch for it just yet, but DAMN, first impressions are WAY better than CA glue.
You know the way you test CA, and REALLY dig your fingers in, and hear the breaking noise?
NOTHING DOING HERE - SOLID AS A ROCK!!

Al.
 
I meant 10L, not 20L, which is still Overkill, as Lemmy would say!!

Best is to remove from the rim with the boiling, clean off what you can, THEN soak, one side at a time in an old bowl, OUTSIDE, but covered to limit evaporation - and rain. Acetone is polar and will mix perfectly well with water, which will limit the effect.

Al.
 
im not to bothered about it mate to be honest there stuck firm now,,once they have been used once they will all look shagged anyhow and i cant be arsed with that boiling them up method the only reason i had to glue them was i got a cheap set of old stock technokit rims on ebay and then found some new pmt fenice's but to be honest by the time youve brought rims tyres and glue you might as well buy them pre glued
 
For on-roads, totally agree mate.
I'm sticking to the MCD chevron tyres, as they're MILES better than the FG ones for adhesion.

Now I know how to un-glue them, I'm happier purchasing wheels, to un-glue the tyre.

Anyone want some MCD MT wheels without tyres? .... I've got 3 solid and 2 with valves.

Al.
 
And the MT market beckons some NEW bodies!!!

Anyone for Batman, Superman, ant of the Dogs, GraveDigger of course, Max D ......

There are beadlock alloy wheels, but they're bulky and expose the beadlocks to bashing not good, but great on a shelf (Keith .... :lol::w00t::cup-1::w00t::lol:)

Al.

PS What are Associated going to make in LargeScale? ...... Would be nice for a MGT (MeGa Truck)
 
Just made some fresh juice up, and taken the FG MT out.

Full bore acceleration, slamming on the brakes - locking all / rears ...
Spin turns.
Donuts.

You name it - didn't roll it!!

NO PROBLEM - MILES BETTER THAN CRAPPY CA !!

Al.
 
Removed all surface 'flashing' with yesterday's bashing - absolutely no rips, breaks, ..... NOTHING.
Had a much harder bash today, even being blocked by a tree and revving to full throttle, throwing up plenty of turf and dirt ...
NO PROBLEMS AT ALL.

This is how to bond tyres onto rims - it MIGHT be permanent, as I've no wish to remove them, but some may!
Al.
 
Still holding up very strong.

NOT ONE break, gap, tear.

To give an idea how hard I was bashing with the sole intention of breaking the tyres, I've blown the coupling tubing for the exhaust - AGAIN!!

I have loads of spare, but it's just to indicate I wasn't going easy on the truck!!

Al.
 
SHave any of you tried JB welding? Don't know if some are wanting to re-use your wheels but...... I KNOW that stuff holds. I JB welded the supercharger silencer holes on my Ford Lightning and that stuff only discolored after 4 1/2 years but was still holding. Of course opt for plastic JB weld instead of metal bonding agents like previously mentioned On my application.
 
No idea on JB Weld, but as I stated in the thread, for bonding tyres, forget CA, if you have the time - some have mentioned they don't have 3 days to wait for the glue to 'go off' - E6000 is the answer.

I've hammered that MT, and the tyres haven't moved or loosened one millimetre!!

Al.
 
Imma try that first when the time comes. I have a Losi and i have a 29.5cc reed coming in soon. U have any suggestions of good tires to swap em out with?
 
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