Power for the servos

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Chief409

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I just got my new HS-5755MG steering servo, and while reading the sheet in the box, when talking about Digital servos they mention the increased current required for them, and mentioned a Y harness to bypass the Rx BEC circuit. Then I looked at this monster servo, MUCH larger then any servo I've run before!


I know some of you use either a Y harness or the Killer Bee card, so what's your thoughts about running using the Rx and the BEC. I think the LHC has a Y harness, but if they don't it'll be online time again waiting for the Killer Bee card, and I'd really like to get the DR out and dirty this weekend - but don't want to trash an Rx or damage a new servo(s) rushing things. On my T-Maxx I have 3 standard digital servos on the same type TQi Rx, 2 servos on the DR look like they would be 5 standard servos! The throttle/brake servo is a Hitec HS-5646WP.
 
The Killer Micro switch is awesome!!! No more spaghetti bowl receiver box! As far as power and amp draw for your steering servo bypassing the RX is a plus all the power is basically put to your servo instead if RX then servo..which in turn stronger and faster servo and longer battery life! Now if you put a Killer Rc Lipo pack with your micro switch!! Wowwww lemme tell you night and day!!
 
The 5755 is rated to 6.0 volts. How do they hold up to a 2s 7.4 volt LiPo? I sure don't want to be buying servos all the time. Gets into my beer money! MaxAmps has a 6.0 volt 5000 mha (if I remember correctly) NiMH humpack, as good as their LiPo packs are, I might go that route. I have 2 MaxAmps 2s LiPo packs for my 4X4 SCT, one 150C the other is 120C. Lets a 4 pole 3800 kva 540 Castle motor SPIN like a small block on nitrous!
 
Deluge said:
You won't have any problems running the 5755 without a splitter. That's how mine is setup, and I'm running a 5805. No issues at all.
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Thanks. I've bought 3 replacement servos over the last week for 2 vehicles, and as I said, it gets into the beer money, so I'm a bit gun shy right now.
 
Want some fun? Try running on a track and have the steering servo glitch and not center correctly, different every time. Talk about herding cats...
 
Chief409 said:
The 5755 is rated to 6.0 volts. How do they hold up to a 2s 7.4 volt LiPo? I sure don't want to be buying servos all the time. Gets into my beer money! MaxAmps has a 6.0 volt 5000 mha (if I remember correctly) NiMH humpack, as good as their LiPo packs are, I might go that route. I have 2 MaxAmps 2s LiPo packs for my 4X4 SCT, one 150C the other is 120C. Lets a 4 pole 3800 kva 540 Castle motor SPIN like a small block on nitrous!
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they can handle 7.4 with out a problem!!
 
Servo saver and all the mechanicals/gears are tight. For some reason the servo won't center. I just rebuilt the SCT with a LCG chassis and the servo was part of the rebuild. Perhaps slapping the track after a jump knocked a connection loose.

So I have a Savox SC-1257TG I'm replacing the Hitec with. I should invest in the Hitec programmer/tester, considering all the Hitec servos I have. This is first one I've had problems with and I'd like to know why, it's almost new. And, perhaps, reprogramming it might fix it. Worth a shot, and less expensive then replacing metal gear servos.

First up at this time, though, is the Dune Runner, getting it off the bench and dirty! Just waiting for the Killer Bee Kill Switch, tracking shows it being delivered tomorrow. Next month we'll be camped on the beach for almost a week, I want to get some good running in! :D
 
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Thought the Killer Bee shipment would arrive today, USPS has different plans. It IS somewhere within 60 miles of the house though...
 
OK. The stock steering servo is 32mm wide, the Hitec 5755 is 28mm wide and guess what, the spacing for the screw holes is wider then the Hitec spacing. Plastic servo mount with nipples to fit in the servo mount holes. Any suggestions? Metal servo mount time?
 
GoffeeRedCat said:
just cut the nipples off lol
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Looked like it would be a real thin wall for either the upper or lower set of holes doing that (2mm offset, looks like M3 screws) and the useless holes. I want to keep the steering geometry as close as possible to stock.

If cutting off the nipples is the only choice, guess I'll have to.

Any other RedCat cars or trucks use the same kind of servo mount, with 28mm steering servos?

Before I forget, I really Love these Forums, when I think about all the wasted time, materials and, MONEY trial and error before Internet used to cost me!
 
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Leave the bottom mount tabs in place and cut off the top ones, mount the servo using the bottom tabs and drill new holes for the top. Super easy. Did that to my MT and it worked great.
 
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