Powerband and exhausts

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Teejay112

Teejay112

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I know one or more of you know alot about this..
I changed from my ddm dominator to a cheap ql racing dbxl pipe it's a small pipe now when I run the mcd the mcd gets into its powerband gradually I cant just pull the trigger and do donuts anymore but I can reach higher speeds any suggestions? I want the low end power back
 

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1Coopgt said:
You answered your own question . Change the pipe . Different length pipes change the torque and move the powerband around.
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So am I right in saying longer the better for torque and also what I lost in low end i gained in top end .I'm used to hitting the powerband by within 2 seconds now it's more like 4 or 5
 
From my experience with my old Baja When I changed to a ddm side pipe I would say longer pipes move the power band higher up the Rev range as I had less bottom end and high revving top end compared to the dominator pipe I changed from which was short and seemed to be an all round pipe and didn’t have as much top end as the side pipe.

Hope that helps
 
I don't really know jack about exhuasts but I red somewhere that longer exhuasts give more top end and shorter give more torque. I could be remebering wrong tho. Plus that exhuast is probably wayy to damn small and choking ur engine
 
I changed to the ql racing dbxl pipe its advertised as an all round pipe for performance it's a small pipe and its poop so I will be buying the pipe for the rovan f5 in 6 weeks when rovansports nl have it in stock I only gave up the dominator because it sprayed oil everywhere all the time and I cut the tip off because it had a small exit pipe and it got too loud but that had a powerful bottom and mid end this one takes it's time then screams it's so fast it don't want to stop but I like acceleration over top speed
 

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Cone angles beside lengths have an effect on how a pipe runs. What clutch shoe engagement are you running? You might try going to a higher stall clutch to over come this. When we built pipes for the 1/4 scale cars we used to make. Running our pipe with the stock non cut down shoes would bog for a bit than hit hard. When we lightened the shoes the pipe you could drive around barely idling and nail it and it was instantly to life.. Back than we did not have the different clutch shoe springs available now so the only option back than was to cut the shoes to change engagement area.
 
TODD said:
Cone angles beside lengths have an effect on how a pipe runs. What clutch shoe engagement are you running? You might try going to a higher stall clutch to over come this. When we built pipes for the 1/4 scale cars we used to make. Running our pipe with the stock non cut down shoes would bog for a bit than hit hard. When we lightened the shoes the pipe you could drive around barely idling and nail it and it was instantly to life.. Back than we did not have the different clutch shoe springs available now so the only option back than was to cut the shoes to change engagement area.
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I have a 8000 rpm clutch spring installed what is the highest they do
 
Z.hb71 said:
I think the rovan f5 is coming with the 36cc so I don't think that will perform very good. I'd do the 45cc dominator clone since it's meant for this engine
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Yeah your right there I'll probably get the dominator clone I know the f5 pipe will be a perfect fit and costs the same but it looks like a mid to top end pipe I want fast acceleration bottom to mid range power I know the dominator has that it gets into the powerband with a dominator meant for 32cc and under before you even pull the trigger all the way
 
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