Pro bite Clutch

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Tell me more about it Lance, I presume you started with it in its pre-assembled state and bolted in. So have you played with it? where Does it engage at rpm wise? How’s the maintenance on it? Maher sent me all the extras to tune it but he also gave me another clutch which is what I’m going to be running at the east coast nationals. I will be throwing it after the race and start working with it.
 
This is a video of it on a tight onroad course. I like it. No bogging on the 26cc Bartolone engine or the roostertail engine that was in there. Engagement is perfect out of corners with the stock probite setup so I've never had to tune it. I've been running the same clutch for 3 race seasons with minimal maintenance. All I do is spray a copper spray on it after every race cleanup.
 
Very cool buddy, looks like it was a baking day out there! Where exactly are you spraying on the clutch?
Even though I have no experience with this clutch setup as far as tuning it, I’m very familiar with the type.
It’s what we use in cart racing, check the pic. This is where this clutch was adapted from, in cart racing it’s on power clutch, not meant to be lugged, they overheat otherwise, but for on power drivers they are the gold standard for putting it down.


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I know its old but not much on the internet. I have a G340rc in Rovan D5. MCD LSD's and all drive shafts and brakes ect and not much Rovan left TBH but im having one issue with my pro-bite. I went a while thinking it wasnt engaging then all of a sudden at say, 14000 RPM it would kick in and fly for a moment. Pulled it apart today and the drive hub has split and the shaft from the engine and allen head is just spinning. Its almost like it needs a woodruff key. Im not sure if the rapid engagment and low end torque is putting to much strain on the connection to the crack shaft causing it to spin. Any tips or advice?
Kind Regards
Jamie
 
I WIll supply pictures once i return home. Im out till 4am (GMT) now for work. Fast responses, thanks guys 👍
Its got 3.6g weights and lighter springs
 
Oh, Wow! Except that its base is all busted up It’s taken some serious heat, it looks like it was never maintained, meaning not lubed.
How much time on that clutch?
How’s the shaft on the engine look? After all this?
The pro bite is great clutch for racing, it’s got a great snap and highly tunable, that being said it is a clutch that needs constant maintenance. Using it for off road racing max 2 tanks.
I’m talking from a racing standpoint at a track since it needs maintenance and time is precious I have 4 setups on standby in my pit box. That’s for Doing 8 qualifiers and 2 mains over a period of 4 days of racing.
Anyway, that thing is shot!
 
I Spray copper grease on it regularly following the advice from King Cobra (was my local shop).
It had recently had a strip down and clean with very little hours on it. Getting on to Taylor for new housing and Pro-bite parts.
Im not a racer but love the pro-bites character.
Any chance of pictures and maintain tips. I was going to get an open housing but fear the copper grease would fly everywhere
Im late 30's and got this Feb 2023 being my first car.. Not really been used since June due to work and doing this alone so not experienced people to talk to.
Better yet, could someone do a youtube video on this subject. Stripdown-clean-grease-install then how you maintain before your next strip down to keep it running right. Im thinking I could of over tightened it which might of split this to. How tight is to tight 😂
 
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MCD has a video on building /assembling the clutch, take a look at it, I don’t do the spray on. I actually take them apart and inspect everything. It’s crucial to have the pins and the disk plate lubed. when you get a chance take it apart, so we we can see the disk and plates. I’m actually getting ready for the 1/5 Worlds in Cali, so will be going through clutch prep on all of them, I know one set will need the screws extracted from the housing due to head stripage Loll 😂 before rebuilding.
Actually I’m more perplexed at the hub damage, the how and why.

One other thing, I run open clutch housings, yeah you’ll see some splatter but just about all is contained in the clutch basket. The cooling of an open housings out ways anything else for me.
 

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I use the copper spray throughout the season on my onroad course car without issues. I spray it a little before every race on the weights and plates. I only take it apart once a season to get all the way for a deep clean.

I only tighten down the clutch bolt with one ugga dugga. Nothing more.

I also prefer the open clutch housing and carriers.
 
Iv put it to one side for now. Going to order a new drive hub and inspect the shaft it was on. I don't do videos but you make a short one for this. Need to crack out the gopro thats never been used in 3 years. Still brand new
 
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