Pulls to the right on acceleration.

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Trip

Trip

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At 1/4 to 1/2 throttle Kermit, (my XB) drives straight as an arrow, but upon full throttle it pulls to the right severely. This is not a steering trim issue, it acts like torque-steer or the rear suspension is tweaked or something.


Right now I'm running the stock front and rear a arms with approx 2 degrees toe-in on the rear and approx 1 degree toe-in on the front. Castor is about 0 all the way around. I'm running front and rear bearing holders from 7075. My tires are FG Marder pin spikes in M compound. The exhaust is a Jet Pro side bleed. (I add this only because it's a 2 pound chunk of steel hanging off to one side and may affect the handling somewhat)


The shock oil is 45 front and 40 rear stock shocks and springs


It has done this since I took it out of the box. I dealt with it last year, but I want to make it right this year.


Does anyone know how to resolve this or has anyone else experienced this as well? I'm open to suggestions.


Comments welcome,


Trip..
 
Last edited by a moderator:
It's good to see you still have Kermit .. Alfred had a thread about the torq steer a while back i believe . Not sure if it pertains to your issue or not
 
Here are some better shots of the suspension. The rear dog bones are straight and the front is slightly raised.

009_zps3bb270db.jpg


008_zpsc5d55783.jpg


I put a 1x4 in these pics to show the toe from front to rear.

005_zps8140e0f3.jpg


006_zps2e49402c.jpg


Any ideas guys?
 
Re: Pulls to the right on acceleration.

Sorry I can't help you but I have to say that xb looks awsome. That green is so bright
 
Re: Pulls to the right on acceleration.

You think it could have anything to do with when you drilled the wheels?
 
Trip.. said:
At 1/4 to 1/2 throttle Kermit, (my XB) drives straight as an arrow, but upon full throttle it pulls to the right severely. This is not a steering trim issue, it acts like torque-steer or the rear suspension is tweaked or something. Right now I'm running the stock front and rear a arms with approx 2 degrees toe-in on the rear and approx 1 degree toe-in on the front. Castor is about 0 all the way around. I'm running front and rear bearing holders from 7075. My tires are FG Marder pin spikes in M compound. The exhaust is a Jet Pro side bleed. (I add this only because it's a 2 pound chunk of steel hanging off to one side and may affect the handling somewhat)

The shock oil is 45 front and 40 rear stock shocks and springs

It has done this since I took it out of the box. I dealt with it last year, but I want to make it right this year.

Does anyone know how to resolve this or has anyone else experienced this as well? I'm open to suggestions.

Comments welcome,

Trip..
Click to expand...
Not shure really- Never had that happen- yet. You no doubt know this- but i say any ways- The 4 inner rear suspension lower a-arm bushings can be adjusted- The holes are either center- or offset. could they be assembled not the same on both sides of the rear end of the car?- just a guess-- Or- it could be- just a wild guess- it could have to do with the cars rear diff- missing bushings on the spyder gears?- Or perhaps the ring and-or pinion gears binding-rubbing aganst the diff housing? I have bought brand new outer diff cases that were sorta warped- no amount of pinion gear shimming would resolve the binding- It was the case half that holds the shock tower.- Hate to toss new parts- so- i will have to try to get them to work properly somehow-
 
Oh, yea, forgot to say- My xb was acting weird before i crashed the car a few days ago- On the front inner cvd, there are 2 allen set screws that retain the main pin - the set screws can actually come loose arn fly off the car- this pin that is retained bu these 2 set screws will actually stay in the cvd assembly!! But- the ends of this pin will grind-catch on the 2 screws that hold the c-hub assembly in place- My c-hub was full of metal- ground off the ends of the screws- and the cvd pin-- Yep- this is another area to look at.- My xb is almostready to go -it was a hard crash- All new front end- diff-diff case-a-arms- new cvd-s -6mm should arrive on monday.
 
Yea, on those bushings- all the front bushings are zero- no off set- the rears come factory with toe-in.- I changed mine to zero off set- less wear and tear on the plastic hubs- it will not turn as fast- but with lower powered engines the car will go faster- less scrubbing-the tires.
 
I had the grub screws come loose a few times as well, I cleaned them well and added a drop of red loctite, I'll probably hate myself for doing that in the future, but I got tired of them backing out.

I noticed on mine the pins only had one grub screw to retain them, but the cvd was drilled and tapped for two set screws. The problem was the pin only had one flat machined on it, so I machined another flat for the other side of the cvd and now it has 2 set screws red locked in there. So far it's holding where the blue loctite had failed.
 
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