Puzzling

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kenkamm

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Hi all, I'm hoping to get a little help with a brand new Taylor 35cc V2. Break-in went fine. But I noticed after break-in when I started to run it at full throttle, it seemed to be getting a bit too hot (almost 400F or 200C, measured on the side of the head with a temp gun after a couple of full throttle passes). So I started to richen up the high speed needle, and this is where the problem started. I must have turned that needle out nearly a half turn, and it never got any cooler, nor did it seem to run any richer. The fact that it didn't seem to run any richer is really puzzling to me.

I checked for air leaks around all the carb gaskets by idling the engine and spraying some electronics cleaner around all the gasket areas. I didn't notice any change in revs, just sat there idling evenly and quite nicely.

I don't know how good of an indicator this is, but at low throttle it does produce some smoke, leading me to believe it's rich enough on the low end.

What other tricks can I try, or what should I look for, when the high speed needle doesn't seem to respond in this way? By the way it's in a brand new 30 Degree North DTT-7 V2.

Thanks everyone.
 
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Its not air leaks imo, you would have had more troubles than temps. your definitely turning the correct screw yes?
I would keep turning it out a 1/8 turn at a time until you see some smoke on the top end and run it around a bit. not too much obviously. Once you find the smoke spot tune back a little at a time while checking temps after hard runs.

What carb do you have?
 
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See that's the problem. As I described, it is not responding to he hi end needle being turned out. I turned it out nearly a half turn from factory settings and it's still running lean on the top end, and therefore getting hot. Have you ever checked your engine temps Tripp?
 
kenkamm said:
See that's the problem. As I described, it is not responding to he hi end needle being turned out. I turned it out nearly a half turn from factory settings and it's still running lean on the top end, and therefore getting hot. Have you ever checked your engine temps Tripp?
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Not on the taylor 35 yet.

Did you go back to zero from the factory setting? If not, do that first then turn it back out 2 full turns and maybe another 1/8 turn. You should definately be able o richen up the top enough to get smoke. Left side screw is hi, right is low end correct???

What carb you running?
 
Tripp said:
Not on the taylor 35 yet.

Did you go back to zero from the factory setting? If not, do that first then turn it back out 2 full turns and maybe another 1/8 turn. You should definately be able o richen up the top enough to get smoke. Left side screw is hi, low is bottom end correct???

What carb you running?
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Yes, I started at zero. Factory setting. It was running too lean (got hot). Turned out the high speed needle (yes it's the one on the left) 1/8 turn. No effect. 1/4 turn. No effect. 3/8 turn. No effect. 1/2 turn. No effect. So something is going on.

I have the Walbro WT1257 extreme.
 
so 225-300max'ish deg F would be considered the operational normal hi temp for this motor. If you are in the 400+ range their could be other issues.

Just to ask, what premix ratio are you running currently?
 
kenkamm said:
Yes, I started at zero. Factory setting. It was running too lean (got hot). Turned out the high speed needle (yes it's the one on the left) 1/8 turn. No effect. 1/4 turn. No effect. 3/8 turn. No effect. 1/2 turn. No effect. So something is going on.

I have the Walbro WT1257 extreme.
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So 2 full turns out plus the additional turns? something is up if that's the case
 
Tripp said:
so 225-300max'ish deg F would be considered the operational normal hi temp for this motor. If you are in the 400+ range their could be other issues.

Just to ask, what premix ratio are you running currently?
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There are definitely issues. I just don’t know what they are.

I’m running 25:1 amsoil dominator. VP 94 octane ethanol-free.
 
What's the plug looking like? Do you have a new one to use by chance? If its really that lean on top, that plug will look most likely smokey white'ish
 
Tripp said:
What's the plug looking like? Do you have a new one to use by chance? If its really that lean on top, that plug will look most likely smokey white'ish
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Yes exactly. The plug is a very very light brown.
 
Tripp said:
sorry just trying to make sure we are on the same page. check the plug if you can...take a pic and lets take a look
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Right now the plug is brown because I have been idling the engine and at idle it’s quite rich. I was spraying around with electronics cleaner while it idled looking for air leaks. So I don’t have a pic of the plug after the lean run. But I can tell you it was as you said - smokey white-ish.
 
Ok so a couple of questions to elliminate
kenkamm said:
Right now the plug is brown because I have been idling the engine and at idle it’s quite rich. I was spraying around with electronics cleaner while it idled looking for air leaks. So I don’t have a pic of the plug after the lean run. But I can tell you it was as you said - smokey white-ish.
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I really hate to say this but if the carb is mounted correctly with the white Teflon manifold spacers, and you have tried everything with the top end needle, including going to full rich if needed, I would be considering getting a new carb. and maybe trying to talk to taylor about this. They responded to me within a day or two on a different question a few weeks ago. Did you get everything from detroit perf? I love their quick shipping but I have not had much luck with any inquiries on his messaging system lately. Worth a try for a carb swap. I know they are in stock as of two days ago. This sucks man...

How long is the engine running at idle before you are checking the temps? They will get a bit hotter sitting there at idle directly after a hard run. they need good air flow to stay cool.
 
Tripp said:
Ok so a couple of questions to elliminate

I really hate to say this but if the carb is mounted correctly with the white Teflon manifold spacers, and you have tried everything with the top end needle, including going to full rich if needed, I would be considering getting a new carb. and maybe trying to talk to taylor about this. They responded to me within a day or two on a different question a few weeks ago. Did you get everything from detroit perf? I love their quick shipping but I have not had much luck with any inquiries on his messaging system lately. Worth a try for a carb swap. I know they are in stock as of two days ago. This sucks man...
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Yes I bought the engine from Detroit Performance. I have been speaking with Taylor but to be honest they don’t have much in the way of suggestions. I can ask them if they would be willing to send me a carb but I feel like that’s a real long shot.
 
kenkamm said:
Yes I bought the engine from Detroit Performance. I have been speaking with Taylor but to be honest they don’t have much in the way of suggestions. I can ask them if they would be willing to send me a carb but I feel like that’s a real long shot.
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I'm the same way about this kind of stuff, I felt bad requesting a new shock from Fearless considering one blew out the shock oil all over my new 30dn roller during shipping. If you cant figure it out you might consider buying a new one and using the other for parts I guess. Sorry your having this issue. I only have two tanks through mine so I'll keep you posted if something similar occurs with mine
Keep me posted!
 
One other thought, If you up for the task, pulling the carb and doing a complete surgical dis assembly and making sure that the hi end jet hole/path is not blocked in any way. Considering you are getting no response from adjustment
 
Tripp said:
One other thought, If you up for the task, pulling the carb and doing a complete surgical dis assembly and making sure that the hi end jet hole/path is not blocked in any way. Considering you are getting no response from adjustment
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I have no idea how to do that.
 
If you don't have a solution for this yet, it certainly sounds like the HS passage is plugged. Remove the needle and make sure the tip is intact, spray carb cleaner in the needle hole, if it sprays out into the venturi it's clear. It may need a good sonication in an ultrasonic cleaner.
 
Tripp said:
One other thought, If you up for the task, pulling the carb and doing a complete surgical dis assembly and making sure that the hi end jet hole/path is not blocked in any way. Considering you are getting no response from adjustment
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This would be the first thing I would do. If the high side jet picked up a chunk of crud it could be limiting fuel flow after a certain point.

Disassemble , ultrasonoc cleaner , put it back together and go for round two.
There are not a ton of parts inside these things. A little delicate and some small parts but not that difficult to deal with.
 
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