Question about stock Redcat 30.5cc motor

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ChuenouXiao

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What head and piston kit will fit to our stock Redcat motor with no mod and at the same time give performance gain? What can you do to turn your stock Redcat motor into it's full potential with very little or not mod at all?
 
hy 2 bolt

I do not pour too much money into a 2 bolt engine. If you look around the net -ddm- large scale r-c-ect-- on ocassion you can buy a entire top end for 25-30 bucks. The cy 29 is a pretty good top end - lots of torque. just be certan its for the 30mm rod crankshaft. I have found the method to sealing up a 2 bolt and not a mig weld either! ha ha!! - any one want to know how? just ask.
 
stuff required to seal up the 2 bolt.

1 sheet of 3 m wet or dry tri-m-ite 220 grit sandpaper. Go to ddm site. enter this in there search engine- ca-325. buy several of these puppys. select the one with the best coating of graphite. If you are useing billet intake manifold-ada is a good one,- enter this part number- av-504. buy several. might as well keep a few around. Find a piece of machined metal to lay a strip of the sand paper on. stuff a rag- not the 2 legged one- a cloth one.lol! into the crank area. lay the 220 on the sealing surface of the bottom end of the engine. drag the paper- steel in a circle around the sealing surface. press squarely and firmly.- go 360 degrees-one circle, toss the 220-put on a fresh strip of paper- do this 1 more time.- Wipe the sanded area off with a soft cotton white cloth dampened with either household rubbing alcohol or denatured alcohol. wipe very lightly in the same direction you sanded until the cloth wipes clean. repeat this entire process on the jugs sealing surface. I need to reset the sprinklers- I will post agan in a few moments. Dave.
 
I use no loktite on the 2 bolts that hold the jug to the bottom end. Just use a thick flat washer and a lock washer. Seat the bolts- just enough to flatten the lock washer. You must use a torque wrench to do these next steps.- Turn 1 bolt 1/4 turn- then go to the other bolt and repeat- do this until you have gone 1 full turn. Then use the torque wrench - just go 1/4 or 1/2 turn in the same fashon- most cheap clicker torque wrenches start at 5 foot pounds-A beam style torque wrench is more accurate @ lower readings.- Just torque 1/2 foot pound at a time -one bolt-then the other until you reach 4 foot pounds. Let the engine set for an hour. This allows the graphite to settle in- You want to slowly and evenly eventually reach 7 foot pounds of torque.-This is why i do not use lok-tite.- it will set up and screw up the torque readings. You can do the same thing with the av - 504 -just use a ada billet intake manifold- blue lok-tite- torque to 5 or 6 foot pounds. This style of gasket requires quite a bit of torque to seat properly. Eventually, you will start the engine. Let it idle for about 10 minutes- then let it cool and re torque the head bolts agan.- Your torque wrench will go over 6-7 foot pounds- do not sweat it- its just the break loose torque- once the bolt breaks loose- torque to 7 foot pounds. The intake bolts do not require re-torqueing.- It is a very good idea on these hobby engines to drill holes tru the plastic air shroud to enable quick-easy acess to the top end bolts. Do these things at your own risk- because $hit happens. If this fails to seal up these engines- Just spring for a Thermal Arc multi process 252i - - santas gonna put one under the Christmas tree I hope!!
 
A torque wrench and a paper gasket are all you need, in my opinion. Been running a Zen paper gasket on my ESP and I haven't had a failure. I love my 4 bolt Zen, but my 2 bolt CY is just as good.
 
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