Radio Interference Filter

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Chargingram

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Bellevue, WA
Hey, I was wondering if anyone has had any luck with the killer RC Radio Interference Filters? Until only recently I was running with no remote kill switch and made the change.


Since the stocker servos have all died and been buried, I have upgraded to the recommended Hitec servos and never had and TX/RX issues until I installed the Remote kill switch by RCD Racing.


I am using the FlySky FS-GT3B and have never had an issue until now, been using it for all my nitro/gas/electric RCs.


When the XT is off, both servos operate normally with no glitches. If I start the XT, both steering and throttle servos will be glitchy and almost unresponsive. Kill switch engages if I shut off the TX.


Has anyone else ran into this issue? If so what resolved the issue?


Thanks,
 
I am not sure I understand as before installing the remote kill switch, I had no servo twitching. Do I need to shield the kill switch wires from the coil to the receiver box?
 
Chargingram said:
I am not sure I understand as before installing the remote kill switch, I had no servo twitching. Do I need to shield the kill switch wires from the coil to the receiver box?
The kill switch doesn't cause the problem, it makes you aware of them. Most kill switches require the use of a well insulated plug.

I've never tried a filter to stop plug interference. I would be curious to see if it worked.
 
Come to think of it.....

I have ran a stock plug with the killer bee which has a filter, I still had to upgrade the spark plug to a NGK.
 
RCDAD said:
The kill switch doesn't cause the problem, it makes you aware of them. Most kill switches require the use of a well insulated plug. I've never tried a filter to stop plug interference. I would be curious to see if it worked.
If anyone is interested in filters they sell them at radio shack (different sizes). I've had the one's from killer rc and radio shack no improvement between the two products at all except price.
 
fiters

the filters you are all talking about is actuall called a ferrite choke. look no the back of your p-c hook ups. what is ferrite? It is built like a magnet, but with out the ability to attract metal to it. non magnetic. There are many type of ferrite mixes- 73-44-ect-ect. these numbers when looked at there properties in a reference data sheet will tell what frequencies they will pass - and what they will block. must be careful about what ferrite choke filters you install. --- runaways are costly. You all know this--- the numbers on a spark plug-- when there is an R - it means resistor. this device supresses radio interference in the car-truk you drive to work in. and may- supress interference in the car-trucks cpu-ignition - emmision controls. Use these R spark plugs on our -your r-c. this will greatly lessen the chances of glitching- runaway.-- As for the filter that comes with the killer brand switch-- best stick with what the dude sent you.- its the correct ferrite mix.- BUT, if you can find a part # -brand on the plastic snap case-- might be able to find one locally-- donot count on radio shack-- there in the process of closing 500 stores. just saying---
 
Holy crap! I was just getting ready to post a very similar question. I've been running the RamTech kill switch for about a month now and when I first installed it, nothing unusual happened...just a piece of mind that now I wouldn't have a run away. That said, a few days ago one of my steering servo started to glitch like crazy but I noticed if I revved up the engine it would stop. I have not touched my MT till yesterday and more issues came about....so now not only that one steering servo glitches, the other one would not respond at all. It gets worst....the gas/brake servo is now non-responsive as well. I was totally lost and couldn't figure out why it was all doing that but hopefully maybe I can just swap out the stock plug and hope for the best. So the question is does anyone know the part # of the NGK plug I'll need and does my local auto store have it or do I need to order from a hobby shop? Thanks
 
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glitches in the system

a weak point in the circut on these cars is the location of the power switch on the radio box. seeing how the cars are 4wd, the switch takes a hammering every time you run the car. blasted with everything the tires churn up. gotta get a switch with a rubber cover. In a pinch, go to big wal-mart. in the automotive section, look for a spray bottle of-- CRC Ecectronic Cleaner- 4 bucks. remove the switch fron the box, put a rag under it, and flush out the switch. The most common failure point on any servo is where the wires connect to the printed circut board. the solder fatuges and breaks. easy fix unless the factory has applied glue to this area, just re-solder the guilty wire back to the board. do not remove the top part of the servo case. hold it with your fingers-and just remove the thin bottom servo case plate to expose the wires. yea, on the o-ring. just slide this up to the middle case, then slide back in place before you fully tightan the case screws. check out my old posts about anchoring the recievers antenna wire. this is a must do. cause eventually-- anything that can go wrong-- will. Murfeys law. nice spelling huh?
 
Low battery will make the kill switch shut down the electronics.

I had a "bump stop"...every big jump / bump the engine died.

That was a bad connection on the antenna wire.

$10 for a new rx, no more bump stop.
 
Dr. Evil said:
Thanks buddy.....
Ok...just called advance auto and they have it but the cross reference to CMR7H is 3066. Thought this will help someone else looking for one....good luck. I hope this will fix my issues.
 
Update

Finally got a dry moment in the weather and started it and let it idle, it was like magic! No more servo glitches or stutter.

Thank you all again for your input.

C
 
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