Ramp MT ?

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I would check fuel line connection, condition of fuel line (not old and cracked), make sure spark plug is tight (they do unscrew themselves), and check for air leaks at all thegaskets. Seeing how you did the carb shaft carb gaskets would be a good place to start. And check your fuel lines the way moo said supply line on the bottom, return line on top.
 
Thanks for all the help, last night i tore the engine down im going to just start from the bottom and build back up, im goinb to silcone every gasket on the case just to know for sure the case is tottaly sealed. Than go to the carb and do the same, lol this sure aint like a nitro checking them for air leaks is a breese
 
OK Its my case bearing that are leaking, what tools am i going to need to get them out and pressed back in, i got the flywheel puller from ace hardware just a cheapy one. is there a special tool to get these bearing out
 
great deal!! glad you found it and how did you find it any way? the flywheel puller will help, the bearings most of the time can just be popped out as the case will be split open. but if you have a hard time, just use a C-clamp and 2 diffrent size sockets. one slightly larger then the bearing and one sockit to put on the other side to push it out. don't forget to replace the rubber seals that protect the bearing. are you going with fast eddy bearings or cc racing?
 
You know, this thread particularly got my interest in the fact that we "overlook" or "ignore" our rigs normal operating characteristics and just "run 'em".........laganm21, thanks for bringing this up because I had an exhaust gasket that was leaking (blown) and thought nothing of it, well I replaced it and ran the truck again......wow, what a difference, so thanks to you I will be more keen to these "air leaks".
 
thanks to all of you for helping me with this problem, i was so lost on this and it was really is on my nerves, but it could not of happen at a better time, i allways wanted to get a head kit for the MT since i got it in march and now since i going to completely tear down the motor and replace bearing and seals i going to go on and do the head kit as well, i really hope i see a big power gain because my baja buddys are killing me on strait line runs, so thanks for all the help
 
I am kind of scared of going to big with the engine, because before i got my ramp i was building on a stock 2.5 tmaxx build that i did about every thing you could think of like the big block kit so i went from a stock trx 2.5 to a axial .28 big block and then the fun begain, all new steel trans and drive train harden steel diffs bigger wheel hexes u know all the fun stuff, so for my power gain it was no where near worth it, because i had to spen over $400 on the drive train just so it would handle the power. and i don't want to go through that all over again on my ramp, i just want some extra power to climb the montain of hills we have over here in tennessee
 
Oh yeah and Kryp i fount the air leak on the case bearing buy taking the cover off the engine and mounting it to the work bench and starting it with a drill and getting my propane torch with some fule tubing on the end of the nozzle and just moving it around all the seals to see a spike, it was not easy to get the gas to the bearing buy the flywheel i allmost lost a finger but no pain no again right lol
 
Nice troubleshooting technique 'm21.........and MOO is hooked on the ported motors, so pay him no mind (he over-does everything, check out his rollcage :D )........so a 28.5cc headkit is $69.......a ported 28.5cc headkit is $149.......now if you were to say you wanted a non-ported 30.5, I would say you're better off with a ported 28.5, not only performance-wise but money-wise too.
 
so if i go with the 28.5 head kit ill wont run into any drive train issue like breaking diffs? I am ordeing the steel gear next week but if i get the head than should i change the raito of the gears, i would like more speed but i don't want to lose any low end i want more low end power i like to pull stuff in the yard
 
As long as you temper your drive cups you'll be fine.......I have 25/35, 27/33, 29/31, 31/29, 33/27 and 35/25 so I will run all different ratios and tire combos to match the different driving we want to do per outing.
 
Well i aint got that much money to buy all them in steel, would just the 25 35 25 25 be fine with the head kit or will the speed just stay the same just get there faster
 
Oh those are just my "plakky" gears......I have 25/35 and 29/31/25/25 steel also......and as I said, MOO goes crazy, now he says reed motor....... :eek: ......so here's the spectrum: 23cc CY= $149 to 30.5 reed ported CY= $449.......is it worth $300?.....to MOO, yes......to me, I had to allow for a pipe, which a black side DOM= $139, steel gears= $60, non-ported 28.5 or ported 28.5 headkit= $75 - $150.......so for $275 - $350 you can make a "beast".......right now mine is uncontrollable with a plain 28.5cc headkit and 77DOM so when MOO says his is crazy? You would have to see it to believe it!
 
Yeah it seems like moo goes all out on evertthing,the tmaxx he just talked about was top on the line parts,and by the way thats why im scared to bash my ramp because my tmaxx was junk and broke every outher run, and i don't want to do that to my ramp,but the ramp seem way more durable
 
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