Rear track width problem

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jpblue1000

Well-Known Member
Messages
131
Location
London again
Guys I have a double headed FG setup tool with camber/toe/angle guages at both ends. the device slots into the rear bulkhead to allow setting of width and toe etc.
Problem I have is the right hand side wishbones are wound all the way in. ie shortest yet to match the width from centerline I have to lengthen the left side wishbones to the point the drive shaft is almost falling out of its cup...I need to shorten both sides by about 4mm.( I have the required 3 degree of toe in and zero camber on both sides, and the sate half track?
This has me stumped...
Photos to come just ran out of camera batteries have to go to store...what a pa-lava!

JP
 
Assuming you have the right drive shafts??????

wind the forward turn buckles all the way in JUST leaving half a thread showing. Then take a long straight rule, put that along the wheel pointing towards the front wheels (make sure these are straight) the tip of the rule should point to the middle of the front wheel - that will give you the correct toe in.
Now you can put on the correct 3 degree camber.


Make sure the rule by the back wheel runs along the line of the wheel nut - this photo isn't the best but you should get the basic idea.

 
Thanks Mike but thats not quite the problem
I can align everything except the rear Track. one wheel site 4mm closer to the models centerline than the other side
Heres the setup tool,
IMG_00011_zps3017d302.jpg
and a closeup
IMG_00021_zps29aae6c3.jpg
Sorry for the not perfect photos but as you can see the gauges have measurements that disapear into the aluminium cross bar. the measurements are different side to side by about 4mm, when I get them equal the drive cup and dogbone are barely connected. I cannot shorten the shortest arm. All plastic arms are brand new and dogbones are same length...?
What Im thinking to do is adjust suspension to be equal and put spacers between outer drive cup and hub bearing on the short side.
Cheers and good tip might be easier than this tool for alignments once I get it right

JP
 
Sorted.
a litany of problems all added up to the difference.
Different width hub bearings on one side, racked over diff mounts and rear bulkhead due to plastic distortion, slightly different length ball joints.
Disassembled and parts compared, replaced and modified now its square and aligned properly...Now rear wheels look wrong in wheel arch but thats life. they are centered at 0 toe but at 3 degrees they are quite forward using sportsline type arms.

JP
 
Agreed Mike. But this one is the learn to drive car so while I do that the Full comp can sit pretty aligned at 0 toe until I learn to miss the walls and kurbs at the track.

JP
 
worked a treat,
was actually able to generate heat in the tyres this time. tracks true with only 1 click of right trim...all was goung well til the front left wheel parted company and I didn't have spare wheel nuts. Still couldn't get full throttle until halfway along the straights, I think the power is too much for my skills.

JP
 
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