Rebuilding a Zenoah G2D 23 motor but......

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dwarfy said:
The other consideration for bashers is the additional weight gains from all the ally bling additions. This obviously has an impact on the all important power-to-weight ratio.......

Hypethetically speaking.........
4.5hp engine in a 20kg full ally bling car = 0.225hp / kg
3hp engine in a 12kg std plastic car = 0.25hp / kg

The 3hp is down on power but the weight savings will make for a very close contest :D I like my std plastic car :lol:
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My marder was plastic from the tank forward (later added alloy hubs with hydros) - a belting car.
 
I agree for the most part and try to keep mine as light as possible. Only up grades I do are ones that are necessary to make it more durable.
 
46u said:
This is why ONB make race ported engines and all out HP engines. I have talked to them several times in the last couple of weeks an they said most times their full modded engines are not meant for racing but for HP junkies. Best thing would be to call or email them. When I raced a mild or stock engine (depending on track) worked well for me.

I prefer ONB engines as they do a lot of testing, RD work and updating where some of the other engine builders just do the same thing they have for years.
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Whats the point of having an engine that has enough torque to pull a small moon out of orbit if you can't control it?
You either have a car that pops wheelies all the time, rolls with the slightest turn of the wheel - it doesn't make sense.
The faster/less control you have, the harder you will crash.
 
Mike1970 said:
Whats the point of having an engine that has enough torque to pull a small moon out of orbit if you can't control it?
You either have a car that pops wheelies all the time, rolls with the slightest turn of the wheel - it doesn't make sense.
The faster/less control you have, the harder you will crash.
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I totally agree and I said that in my post!;) This is why ONB make race ported engines as well as all out HP engines like I said. :cool:
 
Mike1970 said:
Mine was for a long time but it got a lot of hammer while racing, there is no need for an all alloy front end but for me, the back end needed to be all alloy to make it more reliable and keep the set up longer.
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Some that only bash have no idea what abuse a vehicle gets on the track. I have had more things break racing do to others hitting me then I have ever had break while bashing. :w00t:
 
46u said:
I totally agree and I said that in my post!;) This is why ONB make race ported engines as well as all out HP engines like I said. :cool:
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I'd like to see if onb could do an engine as good as anything I'd get over here or in Europe. I'd keep an open mind while testing one but I doubt they could do it.
 
46u said:
Some that only bash have no idea what abuse a vehicle gets on the track. I have had more things break racing do to others hitting me then I have ever had break while bashing. :w00t:
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Mine doesn't get used that much due to work commitments so plastic is fine for me! Been out twice this year and its July already :mad: Also if I do have a big off (usually due to my out-of-practice bad driving :rolleyes:), plastic allows a degree of flex whereas ally just bends.
 
dwarfy said:
Mine doesn't get used that much due to work commitments so plastic is fine for me! Been out twice this year and its July already :mad: Also if I do have a big off (usually due to my out-of-practice bad driving :rolleyes:), plastic allows a degree of flex whereas ally just bends.
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I do not add aluminum for bling and none of my A arms are aluminum. But things like CB bearing mount stock plastic, Lay shaft plastic two piece bearing mount and so on I changed as it makes it so much more reliable and durable. The only things I have up graded are KNOWN weak points. ;) I hate the fact stock is about 22 pounds and now it is 25 pounds. Some of this has to do with the exhaust. But I know many that have a 5b that are pushing 30 or more pounds.
 
It's all about finishing the race, my old marder went through a stage of pulling ball joints at will out of the rear wishbones, I changed them and never had any more problems - I've never bent or broke an alloy wishbone. Things like alloy gear carrier and diff carrier are again bullet proof
 
This is MY opinion.........

Full alloy back end & drive train although I use steel rose joints on the inboard/forward joints of the rear wishbones (with 2 to 3mm of antisquat), these can be locked off when set as you can do all your adjustments on the rear ones. Everything else can be plastic unless you add brakes on the front, then I'd add alloy front hubs. it seems a lot but as I've said, I've never broken anything.

on the front, you can fit a large washer on the top & bottom bolt incase the ball pops out of the plastic ball joint. You could also fit a zip tie through the front wish bones - not mega tight but it will help things pulling apart.
 
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