Recat rmpage MT break in, engine keeps stalling.

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Phill said:
All you'll see is a pic of 2 screwsJust screw em all the way in then back out the required amount
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Its the 3/8's part that confuses me.

half and half is one turn, then 3/8 according to a tape measure? doesn't seem the same because its not going in a straight line.
 
machinebike said:
Its the 3/8's part that confuses me.half and half is one turn, then 3/8 according to a tape measure? doesn't seem the same because its not going in a straight line.
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You really should watch the video posted above, it explains that exact thing...
 
1 and 3/8 on the low needle with the 3/8 being almost a half turn...power was slow response until I reduced it back until just a little past one complete turn, then the truck was fishtailing with so much power...

carb.webp

carb.webp

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machinebike said:
1 and 3/8 on the low needle with the 3/8 being almost a half turn...power was slow response until I reduced it back until just a little past one complete turn, then the truck was fishtailing with so much power...
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They call that a "pinch" :) . Just remember this. Leaning out the low end will INCREASE your idle speed. It needs to be rich enough to not be laggy when it takes off, and lean enough to not overheat the engine because of the lack of fuel because of the leaned out condition. One last thing to remember, when you adjust your low end and the RPM starts to increase, just use your idle screw to adjust your idle speed and bring the idle rpm back down to around 2800-3000 rpm (that is where I keep mine). Left turns will lower your idle and right turns will increase it. It takes a bit of practice to be able to adjust the low end, but once you get the hang of it, you find yourself wanting to tune ALL of your 2 stroke equipment. I did on my weed eater LOL!. Now as far as the high speed screw goes, that is another animal. You want the same thing. Rich enough to make top end power but not so rich that it bogs down on WOT. As Dan states in the video, most people that move from nitro to 1/5 scale assume that leaning out your engine makes more power. Well, not in all cases. I found that richening up the high speed needle to the point of where the engine bogs at WOT and then backing it down a "pinch", just a 1/16 of a turn allows for more fuel, but not too much. More fuel = more power, up to a point. Leaning it out from the factory settings initially, could hurt your engine because of being too lean. This is where your ear comes in. Watch the video and listen to the part of where Dan starts to tune the engine. He will get it rich and you can tell what it sounds like when it is. Almost sounds like the engine bogs down. Think of it like a line graph the power keeps climbing and climbing and then it drops that is what it will sound like when you have too much fuel (too rich). Kinda like when you still have your choke on, the sound that it makes. Screams and then baaaaaaaaawwww.... It bogs down. That is exactly what it will do when you have it too rich. To lean will sound like it is almost missing a bit. Popping and cracking.... You don't want to do that for too long as it will end up in a locked up engine which = a BAD DAY. Watch the video and listen to it with a set of headphones to really hear what the engine is doing. It took me a bit to finally hear it and now I can tell when the engine is running in a lean or rich condition. Now, one thing. The seasons will change your tune. In the winter you will have to richen up the fuel a bit because of the denser air that follows winter. In the summer, you can lean it up a bit. So you are always chasing the seasons a bit. Nothing major, just a pinch here or there. No major turns. Listen to the engine and it will tell you what it needs. Some times the spark plug will fool you too. If in doubt, change the plug to a fresh one and SMALL turns on the needles.

Hope this helps some.

Best of luck!

Tim
 
Fuel lock

Vent your gas cap.

I purchased an aluminum gas cap then drilled it with a 7/64 drill bit then tapped it with a 1/4 tap( fine thread ) and screwed in a 1/4" aluminum air tip ( drilled I.D. to 1/8") and attached a 12" clear vacuum hose to vent the fuel tank. (Like a dirt bike/atv) Works great. No more stalling or hard starts due to fuel lock.
 
Turn your idle up a bit to get you through the break in process. And when it's broken in you can start tuning your carb. It's normal to have gas on the plug during break in cause it's running rich and that's what you want when breaking it in. After break in pick up some NGk plugs and tune. My rampage is broken in and it's runs perfect and has lots of power.
 
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