Recommended hydraulic brakes?

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CALIC

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Hi,

As am new to the world of hydraulic brakes... Av made some research on them to find out which is the best in term of stopping power, quality and fitting.. But i still couldnt find a reasonable amswers so i was wondering if any experts out there that could help!


Many thanks in advance! :)
 
hi there

Are you a racer or a basher??

some say cables are less hassle to maintain than hydraulics..my cable brakes have been good since I set them up right, without having any required adjustments..

if racing then you will have a bit more bite from hydraulic callipers but you will certainly require a good servo for that 15kg+

but you have to remember a well set up cable system with good servo will be better than a hydraulic system with poor servo and badly setup so make sure you have the servos to do the work that's required by the brake manufacture
 
hi there

Are you a racer or a basher??

some say cables are less hassle to maintain than hydraulics..my cable brakes have been good since I set them up right, without having any required adjustments..

if racing then you will have a bit more bite from hydraulic callipers but you will certainly require a good servo for that 15kg+

but you have to remember a well set up cable system with good servo will be better than a hydraulic system with poor servo and badly setup so make sure you have the servos to do the work that's required by the brake manufacture

+1 all comments.
I had hydros on my FG MT, and was getting tired of 'curing leaks'. The stopping power IS better than cables, but with good servos, the cable brakes are pretty good anyway.
Perhaps I needed to spend more time, but I was spending more time on the brakes than on the rest of the truck - figure that one out!!

Minimum I would consider are Savox 1256TG (20kg 6V), 'though if money permits I'd consider a Hitec 7955 or Airtronics 94780.

Al.
 
Are you sure you want the best,as they aren’t cheap.
My car which came with brakes factory installed fluid are around $1200.00 the FG brand sell for just over $1000.00.
Fluid brakes are a little more forgiving then cable and a decent brand is bubble free.The reason you pay so much for them is because they are the best but badly overpriced.

If you are off road then you’ll need metal discs on road are composite
I run 24kg hitec servo
 
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It doesn't matter if you're a racer or a basher, a well set up brake system is far better than a poorly set up brake system, no matter if it's cable or hydraulic.

I think that hydraulic brakes are the best by far - and yes, I have used cable brakes (on road and off road)

This season I've had the magura 2 brakes on my car and I haven't had the slightest issue with them.

http://rc-car-online-shop.de/shop/e...ra-2-suitable-for-front-or-rear-axle-set.html

Next season I'll have these on my car

http://rc-car-online-shop.de/shop/e...mecatech-twin-piston-hydraulic-brake-set.html

What ever brakes you use, a quality servo is very important but then again so is a decent radio to work it from such as the Futaba 3pk where you can mix the brakes from a 3rd channel rather than use a Y lead or try to do it off the throttle servo.
The Contrast brake that Animal? posted photos of are a good set of brakes and they're easy to set up.

Cables are the cheapest option - you get what you pay for.

BTW You can use steel, GRP or carbon discs (with the correct pads) on or off road - it doesn't matter, it's all down to the feel that they give but you really don't want outboard discs on the rear of an off road car.
 
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Thanks all for your helpful tips!

I don't do any racing, mostly bashing off-road but wat i have been told by many people and from what av seen, i still prefere to stick with the hydraulics then the cable brakes...

But i didnt know that the servo needs to be changed for the hydros? Dose that mean i haf2 change the servo tray or will it be a direct replacment?

And also what do you guys think is a better option a magura, Mecatec or KPD.

what i have seen, there are some hydraulic brakes that you cant find replacment parts for and some u can? I am not sure but the KPD parts are a little harder to find then magura? But i could be wrong.
 
Forget the KPD, Lauterbacher and Magura 1 as they're like hens teeth.

Parts for Magura 2 are still available.

Contrast brakes are still available

Mecatech brakes are still available

Radio/servo wise in an ideal world you'd have......

An Alloy radio plate, Futaba 3pk radio, good servos for the throttle/rear brake and the front brake servo - the Savox 20kg servos are the best I've tried unless you go for the Futaba brushless range £100 plus...
and an Oddified Tonegowa like this

Ignor the jumbo servos either side of the tonegowa in this MT, it's just one I built from bits.
 

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Thanks mike..

Tbh am not sure what futaba radio spec i have... I did get my buggy as RTR from new... So i need to check the box n c...
 
Fraid not, there were some in rc universe of it some years ago but I've none on my pc anymore other than the odd bit like I've put on here.

re radios, I only know the 3pk - 3pks, from what I'm told, the 3pl is very good.
 
So were did u place the reciver? if u replace it with the front servo can it just b placed any were around? And will u need to replace the battries as u running two servos now? Sorry am bing a pian with my question!
 
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on my fg i run front fg tuning cable brakes on alloy hubs,,a savox servo as mike says one of the best for power,,,the rear brakes i use the tps layshaft hydro a nice kit that works very well,i only added the front disc's to add balance and stop the rear end trying to over take the front end when braking hard this setup i find works for me it wasnt to cheap but hydros all round is even more and i only bash if i was racing then id have hydros on the front not on the rear as the wheels fill up on the inside with crap
 
No worries bud, you don't know unless you ask or try something.

On the MT I made a little post for the radio box to sit in front of the steering servo, you could do it at the back of the servo just as easy. The radio plate is the easy bit to do providing you've got the minimum of a hacksaw, drill, file and a couple of taps. just remember that you will still need the servo risers as the radio plate sits a touch lower in a marder than in a touring car plus you have the up turned chassis edges to make things a little more fun.
 
Whether or not you got them for a good price depends on how much the bits you need are going to set you back.
Going to work out a fair bit more than the £60 posted that I am after for mine though.
 
Mike's our 'resident experienced racer' and has a lot of very sound advice.
This is not to discredit any other racers.
All views expressed have been very valid.

I, personally stand by my change back to cables, as I don't have that much time in the first place, then I'm away for up to a couple of months.
Last thing I want is to 'want to have a bash', to find I need to fath around bleeding the brakes again, as was happening.

I reverted to KISS!!

Al.
 
Mike's our 'resident experienced racer' and has a lot of very sound advice.
This is not to discredit any other racers.
All views expressed have been very valid.

I, personally stand by my change back to cables, as I don't have that much time in the first place, then I'm away for up to a couple of months.
Last thing I want is to 'want to have a bash', to find I need to fath around bleeding the brakes again, as was happening.

I reverted to KISS!!

Al.

I get where you're coming from but unless a union has broken, I've never had to re bleed anything. The KP brakes did require a bit of attention back in the day but the magura 2 and mecatech brakes really are fit and forget.

p.s glad you didn't call me an expert.
 
Whether or not you got them for a good price depends on how much the bits you need are going to set you back.
Going to work out a fair bit more than the £60 posted that I am after for mine though.

To be fair to you animal i have never herd of the make of your brakes simply becasue i don't know any thing about hydro brakes. Am not saying they are bad or good i just simply went with the advise that av bin told from people from this forum and others around. As u might notice, am a big noob when it comes to this hobby.

I think i did make a mistake by rushing to buy this kit and as u sed, i will need to spent more money to make this work.

By looking at the picture, am not even sure how the master cylinder will fit tbh.:(
 
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