RL24 Pro COOR Buggy Cage- New Build for Timmahh
- Thread starter Timmahh
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
those are from IRP (Inertia Racing Products). they are available currently at DDM and should be available from a DDM distributor. I think MMR has or can get them for you guys across the pond.
IRP has sets for a stock arm setup, and a set for the FLM extended arm setup. price is 59.00 USD for the stock, and 69.00 for the FLM Extended kit, which will also include his new standoff spacers, which will sell individually at 10.00 USD per set of 4 if im not mistaking.
IRP has sets for a stock arm setup, and a set for the FLM extended arm setup. price is 59.00 USD for the stock, and 69.00 for the FLM Extended kit, which will also include his new standoff spacers, which will sell individually at 10.00 USD per set of 4 if im not mistaking.
cheers tim.best order these myself for xmas i think,if i tell the mrs to get these she'll end up geting me something for a helicopter or something:cursing:.......................i don't even own a f*****G helly
sorry having a bad day,ur siggy on HBF says it all
sorry having a bad day,ur siggy on HBF says it all
- Thread starter
- #24
they are a nice setup Vandel. should be excellent for racers cuz of their quick and easy adjustabilty, and heavy duty enough to take the rugged abuse we bashers put out.
got my package from AltGamer today. Lightened flywheel for the new powerplant. some new inner lipped and outer Silverback RC Beadocks, and a set of new Threshold Seals. so i got my new Phatdad RC 6mm shafts and ss bottom caps and rebuilt the shocks.
the 4.8s are sweet, but at 30 plus lbs, i thought it best to go to the 6mm shafts. so i installed the Seals into the caps, then installed the new shafts. when it came time for piston choice, i contemplated my likeliness to do some jumps (much), the expected weight (more than id like. lol i guesstimate 33lbs running), and decided to use the 2hole pistons on the rear, and the 3 hole pistons up front with 20w BelRay Fork oil all around.
i am also running the Threshold Crowns and Ressis on this rig, so i think this is a good place to start. and considering im looking at ice racing in the near future, it should help there as well.
Last night i did a few more things to the rig. I adjustend, set and installed the new IRP turnbuckles and standoffs.
i sat and tried different things while fitting them, and made some discoveries, that up until now has eluded me, and i think many others. im going to look at it in a bit more depth over the next few dasy. This doesn't concern the IRPs in any way, just noticed this "Thing" while installing them and checking the function. this maybe a major reason so many have issues with steering. i don't want to say too much atm, but if im right and i think i am, its going to be one of those big "AH HA" moments.
so after messing a bit with the setup, i installed the IRPs and dropped in the radio box to do some initial checks. I ll keep it short for now, and say the installation and setup was quick and painless. i just adjusted the IRPs to be the same as the ones im swapping out, and locked them inplace. rest of the installation was eventless. simpe and smooth.
you can tell right away the steering slop is completely gone. the ONLY play i have now is in the actual hub/wheel hex itself. more likely bearing movement in the hub, or alxe movment in the bearings. if you made note above, you would see i modified a set of stock outer axles, removing the "Cup" of the drivecup, and used that as a front axle with an rear wheel extender to get the front a bit wider like the back is. this is a killer mod imo.
while testing the responsiveness in steering and checking the IRPs for fit, form and function in motion, i was very pleased with their seemily transparant job, but could see very small inputs be reflected in smooth and steady steering motion. no slop, just accurate placement according to input signals. They are certaily beefy and at over 30 lbs, they ll get a workout without a doubt. should be a great addition to the rig for durabitliy and ease of use, especially when you need to make that quick adjustment.
Im going to do a more indepth review on the IRPsafter i get the other set on my Hooters rig. Im hopeing to do that next week and the week after.
i also took out the modified foams i used, and installed a set of stock 5T foams. Thanx Duffster, YOU ROCK. wheels are much better, and even have a better balance to them!!!
and as a cherry on top, i got a call from my motor today. It says HELLO DADDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDIO, and he ll be home SOON!!!!!!!
he sure sounded like he was feeling strong and healthy, even breathing thru a stock t can. man it was thumpy!
Dr Yamadude suggests a few spare pull starts, as hes a Thumper. Cant way for my new Son to get home, and settle into his new digs.
got my package from AltGamer today. Lightened flywheel for the new powerplant. some new inner lipped and outer Silverback RC Beadocks, and a set of new Threshold Seals. so i got my new Phatdad RC 6mm shafts and ss bottom caps and rebuilt the shocks.
the 4.8s are sweet, but at 30 plus lbs, i thought it best to go to the 6mm shafts. so i installed the Seals into the caps, then installed the new shafts. when it came time for piston choice, i contemplated my likeliness to do some jumps (much), the expected weight (more than id like. lol i guesstimate 33lbs running), and decided to use the 2hole pistons on the rear, and the 3 hole pistons up front with 20w BelRay Fork oil all around.
i am also running the Threshold Crowns and Ressis on this rig, so i think this is a good place to start. and considering im looking at ice racing in the near future, it should help there as well.
Last night i did a few more things to the rig. I adjustend, set and installed the new IRP turnbuckles and standoffs.
i sat and tried different things while fitting them, and made some discoveries, that up until now has eluded me, and i think many others. im going to look at it in a bit more depth over the next few dasy. This doesn't concern the IRPs in any way, just noticed this "Thing" while installing them and checking the function. this maybe a major reason so many have issues with steering. i don't want to say too much atm, but if im right and i think i am, its going to be one of those big "AH HA" moments.
so after messing a bit with the setup, i installed the IRPs and dropped in the radio box to do some initial checks. I ll keep it short for now, and say the installation and setup was quick and painless. i just adjusted the IRPs to be the same as the ones im swapping out, and locked them inplace. rest of the installation was eventless. simpe and smooth.
you can tell right away the steering slop is completely gone. the ONLY play i have now is in the actual hub/wheel hex itself. more likely bearing movement in the hub, or alxe movment in the bearings. if you made note above, you would see i modified a set of stock outer axles, removing the "Cup" of the drivecup, and used that as a front axle with an rear wheel extender to get the front a bit wider like the back is. this is a killer mod imo.
while testing the responsiveness in steering and checking the IRPs for fit, form and function in motion, i was very pleased with their seemily transparant job, but could see very small inputs be reflected in smooth and steady steering motion. no slop, just accurate placement according to input signals. They are certaily beefy and at over 30 lbs, they ll get a workout without a doubt. should be a great addition to the rig for durabitliy and ease of use, especially when you need to make that quick adjustment.
Im going to do a more indepth review on the IRPsafter i get the other set on my Hooters rig. Im hopeing to do that next week and the week after.
i also took out the modified foams i used, and installed a set of stock 5T foams. Thanx Duffster, YOU ROCK. wheels are much better, and even have a better balance to them!!!
and as a cherry on top, i got a call from my motor today. It says HELLO DADDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDIO, and he ll be home SOON!!!!!!!
he sure sounded like he was feeling strong and healthy, even breathing thru a stock t can. man it was thumpy!
Dr Yamadude suggests a few spare pull starts, as hes a Thumper. Cant way for my new Son to get home, and settle into his new digs.
fastlane
Well-Known Member
Sweet I like that truck. I did my Red Cat TT the same way.
- Thread starter
- #26
My new son arrived today. got him alldressed up and ready for duty. just need to install a new carby when it arrives tomorrow or saturday.
a Yamafied TS/ESP 30.5 should bring some good life to this 30 plus lb. pig. putting a 668 on it, installed the lauterbacher as it has the least amount of wear between it and the elcon. intalled the TR Clutch Housing i just got off Wingnut, and ofcourse the TR HD clutch housing. also put a new cooling shroud on, the orignal one from the 23 rtr is getting pretty whack. lol need to mod it so i can access the cylinder bolts without taking the shroud off. has the pb connection setup. and i have a new PS to install. though i think i just need to clean up this one and maybe put a new spring in it. its the original rtr one. the fuzzy coconut ps, without the fuzzy. lol
while i wait for the carb to arrive, im going to spend a lil extra time polishing up and cleaning the cases and the tr gear. its had about a yr of use, and could use a bit of a spit shine.
a Yamafied TS/ESP 30.5 should bring some good life to this 30 plus lb. pig. putting a 668 on it, installed the lauterbacher as it has the least amount of wear between it and the elcon. intalled the TR Clutch Housing i just got off Wingnut, and ofcourse the TR HD clutch housing. also put a new cooling shroud on, the orignal one from the 23 rtr is getting pretty whack. lol need to mod it so i can access the cylinder bolts without taking the shroud off. has the pb connection setup. and i have a new PS to install. though i think i just need to clean up this one and maybe put a new spring in it. its the original rtr one. the fuzzy coconut ps, without the fuzzy. lol
while i wait for the carb to arrive, im going to spend a lil extra time polishing up and cleaning the cases and the tr gear. its had about a yr of use, and could use a bit of a spit shine.
pipeous
Well-Known Member
That is one sexy setup there dude. Lots of planning went into this beast. I've seen vids of those motors and they are insane. rev like nitros
- Thread starter
- #28
Brian built this one to be a bit more torquey than high rpm, but thats ok, cuz i ll just get taller gearing than the 19/55 im running lol. then their is the 2speed when available. Schwing!!
while i was doing some eating, i started to think about all the work i have to do to polish up the cases, just so they can get dirty again. so i said F-it and just starting putting it together more. lol
heres a few more pics
Hard to see cuz of the flash, but i put it on my scales to get an idea. 24.8 lbs in these pics.
while i was doing some eating, i started to think about all the work i have to do to polish up the cases, just so they can get dirty again. so i said F-it and just starting putting it together more. lol
heres a few more pics
Hard to see cuz of the flash, but i put it on my scales to get an idea. 24.8 lbs in these pics.
Rossco
Well-Known Member
I think that engine was posted to the wrong adress,,,,,should have been posted to my place
dwarfy
Well-Known Member
24.8lbs aint a bad weight Tim. How much more do you reckon will go on for completion?
- Thread starter
- #31
other than the carb and air filter setup (Waiting on the Threshold "Race" air filter setup to become available), and re installing the shocks (done, just need to be put on) the unit is ready to go. i figure i have about 2 lbs there to add. then the roll cage and the things attatched to it like, 2s lipo for lights, body panels, and ofcourse my driver. i think the cage assembly weighs in around 6lbs give or take a few oz. so total i have 24.2 plus 2 for 26.4, then the 6 for the cage, will bring me up to around 32.4 lbs. oh then the cpi pipe. 1.5 there. so all in all, i figure i will of lost maybe 1.5 to 2 lbs and gained around 1.5 to 2 hp with less rotating mass. i ll weigh up after i install the shocks and pipe here shortly.
- Thread starter
- #32
i installed the new PhatDad SS shafted shocks with the Threshold seals, and the Hoods Hobby limiting straps. ressis mount to the cage. beside the bolts, the 4 ressi mounts is all that needs to be taken off to remove the cage. oh and one servo extension wire once i get a light controller again.
also put the header on the motor, and fit the pipe on loosely.
checked the weight, and it gained 3 lbs exactly. so it now sets at 27.4 lbs.
almost ready to go.
also put the header on the motor, and fit the pipe on loosely.
checked the weight, and it gained 3 lbs exactly. so it now sets at 27.4 lbs.
almost ready to go.
- Thread starter
- #33
got the new carb today, so i got it installed, setup the linkage, added a bootie around the throtle shaft (hpi dogbone boot cut down. rtv siliconed to the carb body). had to reset the linkage on the throtle/brakes and adjust the servo. all i need to do now is clean the air filter assembly and install it. still waiting for the Threshold "Racer" filter assembly to become available. once i have that, it ll be fully ready to rock.
still have to get some lexan for the panels so i can fab them up, then they go off to get some work done to them. i hope to get this part ready to be shipped out by end of yr. so i can hopefully have the panels ready to mount by end of jan. hopefully sooner.
few pics.
its killer what a white paint pen can do. lol
still have to get some lexan for the panels so i can fab them up, then they go off to get some work done to them. i hope to get this part ready to be shipped out by end of yr. so i can hopefully have the panels ready to mount by end of jan. hopefully sooner.
few pics.
its killer what a white paint pen can do. lol
roofchopper
Well-Known Member
hi timmahh, is your cage tube or solid,cheers chopper
gottaclone
Well-Known Member
Way to go on this build, it is awesome. That roll cage is a piece of work. Would like to see vid so we ca here that YamaDude 30.5 and that CPI Big Bore pipe.
- Thread starter
- #38
well winter has really slowed us down here in the north. but regardless, going to try to get out on one of the better days and find some ice.
so i got the MTXs ready to go.
last year i studded every lug on the MXs. worked very well, but was alot of wieght. so i looked at the lug pattern, and it has 32 lugs per row. so knowing that, i did a lil math, and some geometery, and came up with this pattern.
this should offer minimum of 4 studs in contact at any time, and up to 8 unless i break traction and spin up the wheels. then only the middle will get biting.
you have to be certain to be in the center of the lug when installing the kold kutters.
i used a paint pen to pre mark the center of each lug being studded. once i get in a few laps, i ll know if their is enought bite or if i need to add a few more lugs to the center 2 rows.
i ll do the same pattern on the fronts, but i ll only be doing every 8th lug on the outer two rows. then i ll stagger them by 4 lugs as to evenly offset the inner lug to the outter lug
main goal is to allow for enough traction, while minimizing added rotational mass.
will post more pics when its all done.
so i got the MTXs ready to go.
last year i studded every lug on the MXs. worked very well, but was alot of wieght. so i looked at the lug pattern, and it has 32 lugs per row. so knowing that, i did a lil math, and some geometery, and came up with this pattern.
this should offer minimum of 4 studs in contact at any time, and up to 8 unless i break traction and spin up the wheels. then only the middle will get biting.
you have to be certain to be in the center of the lug when installing the kold kutters.
i used a paint pen to pre mark the center of each lug being studded. once i get in a few laps, i ll know if their is enought bite or if i need to add a few more lugs to the center 2 rows.
i ll do the same pattern on the fronts, but i ll only be doing every 8th lug on the outer two rows. then i ll stagger them by 4 lugs as to evenly offset the inner lug to the outter lug
main goal is to allow for enough traction, while minimizing added rotational mass.
will post more pics when its all done.
- Thread starter
- #39
pics of them finished. fronts ended up with 8 thru the center with 4 on each side of center 4 lugs apart. and then staggared on the outside with a lug on every 8th stud, so each side of the tire only has 4 lugs.
16 lugs per front tire
32 lugs per rear tire
should work great. gonna do a few things to the bike tomorrow and see how it runs out there. not sure if i can find small enough screws with a sharp enough heat to give me some bite. lol
16 lugs per front tire
32 lugs per rear tire
should work great. gonna do a few things to the bike tomorrow and see how it runs out there. not sure if i can find small enough screws with a sharp enough heat to give me some bite. lol