RPM arms & IRP shocks

[Speedloader]

Hello,

Is anyone in here running the RPM arms and Innovative RC big bore shocks?

I cant figure out why there isnt space for the big bore shocks in the front upper arm.
I have attached a picture of the arms with the standard shock and as you can see it isnt in the centre of the front upper arm.
But with the RPM arms, no caster adjustment is possible.

 

[DougStar]

Ask @evssv i know he is running rpm arms not sure about irp shocks?

 

[evssv]

mine lined up fine.....? ...could b lower shox end spacer wrong way throwing it off center ......maybe?

 

[vinxs]

I've had the same issue for years and mine rub.

 

[Speedloader]

I've had the same issue for years and mine rub.

Maybe solution to rubbing issue, is to make the hole countersunk and put countersunk bolt.

 

[1Coopgt]

I took a dremel to the head of those screws where the spring on the IRC hits it . I don't have the RPM arms though.

 

[DougStar]

I took a dremel to the head of those screws where the spring on the IRC hits it . I don't have the RPM arms though.

That's a good plan coop?

 

[lorraine]

first off you can ditch those socks! The rovan rubber gators for 8mm shock shafts fit with just one thing done to them, the rubber near the lower spring perch needs to be folded outside in to sit on top of perch. top fits perfect on ring grove . Take off lower eyelet spacers and that stupid skid plate. put shock back on arm with the long bolt and center up shock in lower arm and remake spacers for proper offset, Make the spacers OD large enough to act as new skid pucks, as in make them so when installed they are just a bit larger than the end of plastic rod end. the two spacer pucks will act as a skid plate and this setup lets the crap fall through unlike the skid plate they give you in RPM kit..
again I can't stress enough , Get those socks off those. IRCs will oxidize big time under those socks. keep them out in open to air!!!!!!!!! The OD of spacer pucks should be around .675

 

[lorraine]

I took a dremel to the head of those screws where the spring on the IRC hits it . I don't have the RPM arms though.

this fix is not for everyone but I blew throught the back wall of those upper arms and machined up tee bushings with the 1/4-28 thread that the steel heim upgrade uses. I locktite studs into joint and then screw them in arms. I leave the hex socket in stud facing out . machine the bushing fit tite with a couple glue rings in it, put a drop or two of glue on and press in tee sleeve . make tee head a thin as you can. If you make the sleeve to long don't worry as you can kiss the back of pivot joint to bring it back around. Ton of room now for those big springs as there is no more screw head but a almost flush tee sleeve. By adjusting the stud from back and snugging up joint from front you can get them to clock in right with different shim stacks for camber adjustment . P.S use purple locktite on stud so you can tweek it down the road and only use it on stud in joint and not on your new sleeve as it could spin in arm when adjusting.