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in the music industry (and i see RC much like it in the electronics department) we had a saying Buy Once Cry Once.


basically boiling purchases down to, buy a cheap 50.00 piece 10 times over the course of 3 years, OR spend 350 at the begging and 6 years later, still be using the same piece of equipment.

i found this to be very honest to RC as well. i ve Tried the "i can savea dime" method and, just like musical equipment, the more you spend the more you smile.
 
Timmahh said:
in the music industry (and i see RC much like it in the electronics department) we had a saying Buy Once Cry Once.


basically boiling purchases down to, buy a cheap 50.00 piece 10 times over the course of 3 years, OR spend 350 at the begging and 6 years later, still be using the same piece of equipment.

i found this to be very honest to RC as well. i ve Tried the "i can savea dime" method and, just like musical equipment, the more you spend the more you smile.
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after ripping my poorly protected cheap exhaust off yesterday (big crash) I agree there. but I'm still tempted to try the fasttrax pipe instead of stumping up for a jetpro....
 
I emailed them last week, they told us to send them to them for testing.

I know j's is intermittence so he's going to send it to them at the weekend, i told them we had 2 runaways.
You need to check yours to see if the flashing light stays on or not when connected to the servos.
Are you going to j's tomorrow.
 
jackobyte said:
I emailed them last week, they told us to send them to them for testing.

I know j's is intermittence so he's going to send it to them at the weekend, i told them we had 2 runaways.
You need to check yours to see if the flashing light stays on or not when connected to the servos.
Are you going to j's tomorrow.
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What flashing light? the one on the receiver? care to elaborate
 
jackobyte I think I know what the problem is as I had something similar happen to me many times before I figured it out.

take your battery (receiver) apart and check how the cells are connected to each other. on allot of them they are joined by plates which don't absorb the shock very well. jumping and vibration crack these plates. I changed mine from plates to 14 guage wire and it has never glitched since.

something easy to look at and it very well might be the culprit.
 
vmlopes said:
What flashing light? the one on the receiver? care to elaborate
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voo2doo said:
Yes mate,the reciver.
J.
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Hey J, so should the receiver light stay on or flash? sorry for the dumb question but I have one of these and keen to know whether to change out the radio for a spare Spekky DX3E that I have, have changed the rx battery to a 4500mah one though
 
vmlopes said:
Hey J, so should the receiver light stay on or flash? sorry for the dumb question but I have one of these and keen to know whether to change out the radio for a spare Spekky DX3E that I have, have changed the rx battery to a 4500mah one though
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Mine was solid green and I have just changed the battery to a 5000,but I'll put my spekky in for safeguard.
J.
 
I've a DX3, and am running a Killer Bee V2S -5. Works perfectly.
I bound the Tx/Rx with 1/2 brake. If I'm out of range / low battery, etc., the engine will cut and the brakes will apply. Works perfectly.
Al.
 
I've got DX3s and a picoswitch on the third channel (running off the remote start button, press to kill). works a treat in all situations (out of range, low battery etc). Though it does mean I can't ise the 3rd channel for anything else (like dual steering servo)
 
foxy said:
how do you set up the ch3 on the dx3 to work the battle switch as a kill swith ta bud
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just make sure the 3rd channel rate is set on 100%........i have jackrc

pico switches on 2 of my MCD's......half the price of the killer bee and just

the same switch:)
 
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