Deluge1
Senior Member
Yeah you need to anneal it on the first install. They stiffen up when they're manufactured, so you need to loosen them so they'll conform properly.
The copper gaskets I had were a perfect fit. If you need to, take some sand paper or a Dremel and open up the inside a bit. Just until it slips on.
When measuring squish, you need to put the solder so it's parallel to the crank. In other words, not at the intake and exhaust ends. You want to avoid those ends because the piston will rock a little when trying to compress the solder, and that'll give you inaccurate readings. With the readings you have NOT at the intake/exhaust, the average is .65mm. Which is .025", so you're good.
Also, how are you tightening the cylinder? Torque wrench? Or just a hex driver? If you're using a hex driver, tighten it so it's snug and then give it another 1/4 turn after that. That'll get you around the recommended torque.
The copper gaskets I had were a perfect fit. If you need to, take some sand paper or a Dremel and open up the inside a bit. Just until it slips on.
When measuring squish, you need to put the solder so it's parallel to the crank. In other words, not at the intake and exhaust ends. You want to avoid those ends because the piston will rock a little when trying to compress the solder, and that'll give you inaccurate readings. With the readings you have NOT at the intake/exhaust, the average is .65mm. Which is .025", so you're good.
Also, how are you tightening the cylinder? Torque wrench? Or just a hex driver? If you're using a hex driver, tighten it so it's snug and then give it another 1/4 turn after that. That'll get you around the recommended torque.