setting steering servo?

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marderdeej

marderdeej

Well-Known Member
Messages
69
Location
yorkshire, england.
a up lads, just bought a marder with beetle conversion, yesterday it was steering fine using last owners radio gear (spektrum dx3r) iv borrowed my mates analog radio gear and steering is half turn to left wheen it should be centred?
could this be anything to do with radio gear? iv trimmed it fully to right but is still off to left?
iv ordered a dx3c of ebay which should arrive 2mora but im still worried it will be doing same. any advice please, steering servo is a hitech
 
Center everything, trim, sub trim, then take the arm off of the servo shaft and center it up and then screw it back onto the servo shaft. Then to get it perfectly centered use your subtrim control in the radio menu. As youre driving use the regular trim buttons to make adjustments.
 
Killer RC said:
Center everything, trim, sub trim, then take the arm off of the servo shaft and center it up and then screw it back onto the servo shaft. Then to get it perfectly centered use your subtrim control in the radio menu. As youre driving use the regular trim buttons to make adjustments.
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cheers, but before i do this is it definatly nothing to do with radio gear, and when iv tried setting it up earlier i got it straight, but when i turnedpower on it went bk to same? do i need servo powered up while adjusting?
cheers
 
Turn on the Tx and Rx, center all your settings. Put the horn onto the servo shaft and screw it down. Unless its a coreless servo the servo shouldnt move once you turn off the receiver power. But if you turn off the transmitter power first it could activate the failsafe and make the servo move.

I've never had a radio cause the issue that you are having. Issues like yours are usually caused by a stripped gear inside the servo, or the splines inside the horn (arm) are stripped and its letting the shaft spin around inside the horn, which then makes you loose your center setting.
 
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me and my friend are going to have a look this evening as he as a marder and having similar problems, proberbly somethiing im doing wrong? i will update my progress this evening, thanks again, ohh and the forum is the dog danglies
 
marderdeej said:
no, i don't know how to do it, but everything seems good now,apart from iv pulled the threads out of my front hub :( tried gluing it but just keeps pulling out when i turn hard.
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Sounds like your first 'hop-up' is on it's way!
There's a thread somewhere of somebody 're-threading' plastic (I'm presuming you've still got the plastic hubs?) hubs, else, it's time to hit Ebay and locate a decent pair of alloy hubs.
If you do get a pair of hubs, second hand, I'd replace the bearings before installing for safety and lack of hassle later on (alloy hubs you'll probably need to heat up in the oven a bit to permit easier removal and installation.
They're a very tight fit, but the alloy expands more quickly than the steel bearings.

Al.
 
hello al, i fitted one of my new hubs (plastic) today and been out with it and hit a stump and did the other side, it seems the threads are weak, anyway i have got a spare 1 so i will fit this tonight and then maybe think about re threading the old ones, regarding hop ups...just ordered front disk brakes(cable), cant wait to get bk out tomoro. thanks for al the help and info
 
Front cable brakes with the rear layshaft brake are a good 'safe' set-up.
If you've a 'standard plastic' rig, you will probably need to reinforce the support to the radio / servo tray, as you'll find it'll start flexing with the brakes.
Options are to add additional posts to support the plastic one - see other threads covering this - or simply get and alloy or carbon fibre one - there are plenty around!

You will probably be better off with alloy hubs, particularly if you're installing the brakes. One of the guys on this forum uses plastic and says he's no problem ...
The main 'hop-ups' are:
Alloy hubs.
Stronger servos.
Reinforce or replace with alloy or CF radio tray.
Alloy engine mounts.
Ensure the failsafe - brake setting if radio lost when battery OK - is set properly.
Fit a remote ignition cutoff, like a Killer Bee - favourite on this Forum.

......

Tuned pipe.
Tuned engine.
Alloy wheels.

or simply replace as/when necessary and stay in the black at your bank!!! :lol::lol:

Al.
 
alloy hubs are defo on my wish list, iv already got a few hop ups fitted i will try and list, beetle conversion,twin shock m/t front end(plastic). alloy diff, metal spur gear, hitec servos,sturdy own made servo tray(chequer plate). fat rear shocks?. 26cc with race pipe,k&n filter, and proberbly a few other things, oh and its beetle with l.e.d. front and rear lights, my shell is no oil painting but iv got a few plans for a new shell once my driving ability improves, i will take some photos when i get it out next, i have also got a bigbox of spares incl.. new metal diff, loads of dog bones/shafts, full metal "racing" front end(shock mounts) 2 stndrd exhausts, spare race pipe,full clutch, plus loads of a arms(marder) etc. just not the parts that keep breaking.lol. 2 spare basher shells, and a load of wheels :0
 
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