Sharkey's savage octane build

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Sharkey

Well-Known Member
Messages
778
Location
Abbotsford BC Canada
ive had this idea rolling around in my head since hpi baited us with the octane and then killed it (and recently there are clues it may not actually be dead). i figured there had to be a way to build a functional gas savage, not something with a 23-30cc engine crammed in it. i spent a few months searching around and i found an engine that would work, and recently i ran across a deal too good to pass up on a box full of savage parts. i ended up building one complete savage x rtr to sell, and a complete rolling xl chassis, the basis for my build.

the truck itself is pretty basic, i call it an xl, however its actually closer to an x with xl chassis plates. its using the older non bulletproof diffs, however ive spent a bunch of time shimming them, i figure since they seem to hold my picco fine in my other savage they should be ok in this. i built a bulletproof 3 speed, and its running hd dogbones and a 17mm hex hub conversion. im using some xtm shocks i previously ran on my other savage.

1450309_10202025206805072_2097583427_n.jpg

1461596_10202025206125055_704781426_n.jpg


now for the engine. it took me a bunch of research to find what would work. i had a few options, i ended up with an evolution 15gx. its a 15cc (0.91) gas 2 stroke. i was considering the 10cc version, however i figured hpi was building the octane with a 15cc, so i should use the larger engine. aside from more torque, the 15cc version comes with a cast iron sleeve and a ringed piston, so its going to run strong gallon after gallon.

282840_10202118250011094_2112105071_n.jpg

1497461_10202118250811114_2035332313_n.jpg

1522289_10202118250931117_1367232242_n.jpg


this isnt going to be a simple bolt together, however its not going to be quite as many custom parts as my twin nitro xo-1. it looks like ill need to machine an engine plate and engine mounts, along with a flywheel. i have a couple obsticals i haven't yet figured out, however nothing that serious. my goal with this build is to use as few custom parts as possible, and try to build the truck as close to what hpi could have done with the octane. that being said, im not going to run a whole pile of aftermarket parts, it will have an ofna 250cc mid tank conversion, and the parts needed to get the engine in the truck, but thats about it. id like to make it something that could be replicated somewhat easily.

tonight i started on the engine. likely the biggest issue to sort out is the flywheel and clutch setup. the engine uses a massive 5/16" threaded crankshaft. a typical clutchbell couldnt be used as is, so i got the crank rigged up in the lathe and machined the threaded portion farther down. i found out im able to machine it without too much issue, so ill be machining it so it looks like a little larger version of a typical SG shaft crank. ill be milling a flywheel, and ill run a normal hpi clutch bell.

gearing is another interesting thing. the gas engine has a significantly lower peak rpm and makes a lot more torque, so gearing it up is needed. combined that with the large physical size of the engine and how close the brake setup is i had to come up with an interesting setup. ill be running a brushless motor pinion gear as the spur gear. this is nothing new, its been done for top speed savages. what im going to do different is machine a hub to combined the slipper clutch and the pinion gear so i still retain the slipper. along with that i should be able to run between 14 and 18 tooth clutchbells.

here are a few pics of the engine apart. shown with it is parts from an hpi k4.6/axial 28.
1499688_10202149371549113_1544038041_n.jpg

1514559_10202149370789094_374316233_n.jpg

1504034_10202149371109102_104723576_n.jpg
 
ive been slowly picking away at the truck for the past couple weeks. i got to machine some parts yesterday and now its really moving along.

1526494_10202310446655890_613381163_n.jpg

1601540_10202310447175903_1280287168_n.jpg


the engine is now mounted in the truck. i machined a new engine plate, there is going to be no issues with this beast cracking, its .187" thick, or almost 5mm for your metric guys. overkill, more than likely, but i wanted something thicker than 3mm and we didnt have any stock in between. the engine mounts are machined out of 3/8". the flywheel was rather complex to model and machine, it has a keyway to keep it indexed on the crank, and a small keyway at that. because end mills small enough to do the job (3/32", or .09375") are short (typically less than 1/2" long) i had to finish cutting the keyway by hand. another thing you can see in the pics is i have the slipper clutch finished. a simple hub is all it took, it uses the original back plate, slipper pad, even the spring, washer and nut works just like it did stock.
 
with new pics of hpi's octane ive been rather motivated this past week to get this thing running. that being said, its almost ready to fire. i still have to mount the throttle servo and build the throttle/brake linkage, and the starter setup needs to be finished, but its close. if i buckle down after work tomorrow i might have it running sometime on saturday.

1798648_10202386940168180_594157628_n.jpg

i went with the tried and true hitec servos, i run them in all my stuff. this time i decided to try out the 7954 for steering and a 7975 for throttle/brake.

1656187_10202386941088203_61347326_n.jpg

being a gas engine its a good idea to have a remote killswitch. its a little different on this engine than the larger scale ones, the ignition on this engine is cdi, it uses battery power to create the spark. the killswitch simply shuts off the power to the ignition box using a 3rd channel. the other box shown is the tach adapter. i run an airtronics mt4 radio, and i use the telemetry functions on my builds so i can properly monitor whats going on. instead of using the optical sensor with the mt4, the ignition box has a tach output wire, and when used with the tach adapter it plugs right into the receiver.

1779857_10202386942248232_1811512073_n.jpg

149328_10202386944048277_1353343343_n.jpg

1511778_10202386943128254_863051728_n.jpg


yes im going to run the can muffler, for now. i was going to send the engine off to robin at ercm before running it, however i decided im going to run it and see how it works first. id like to see what sort of gains robins magic actually gives, and id like to work out any small bugs that may pop up.
 
i know its been a while, just hope you guys don't think ive given up on this. ive had a couple setbacks i had to figure out, then ended up having to build another r/c. we have been doing R&D on an scx10 scaler chassis, we had a couple people testing it but it just wasnt working out with them so i ended up buying enough parts and putting a scaler together. i really don't have much interest in scalers, however there is a huge following were i am and they want custom parts. we are really close to having a production chassis set. as a result i had to put the octane on the back burner.

so i got a couple things figured out now on the truck. first off, ive got my throttle stop built so the truck will idle. pretty simple, does the job
1796597_10202507666546264_1556436089_n.jpg


now for the starting system. i actually went through a couple designs on this. my original plan was a bumpstart setup. i built a handheld piece that had a rubber wheel, it hooked onto the top chassis rail and i could pivot it against the flywheel. the ribber wheel was to be driven by a roto start. the concept was good, however this huge engine has so much compression that the roto start didnt have enough torque to turn it over. bringing the cordless drill into the mix destroyed the rubber wheel in no time and i wasnt able to get enough grip on the flywheel to get enough rpm for it to fire. i ended up right back at the drawing board and came up with something completely different.

1959353_10202507667066277_578398208_n.jpg

14849_10202507667306283_1095692369_n.jpg


basicly what ive done is take a savage ring gear and attach it to the flywheel and put the pinion on the engine mount. i had to go back and machine a register into the flywheel, i had to machine the center of the ring gear out to fit on the register and bolt the ring gear to hold it on. i machined a new engine mount to support the pinion. there is no one way bearing in this setup, the pinion gear will be buzzing away a 3.3 x engine rpm. there is really nothing i can do about that, ill just have to see how it holds up.

i have yet to get this beast running for more than a couple seconds. i tossed some gas in i had from last season of running my 5th scale. it was pretty stale. i had to play around with the crank sensor to get the timing in the right spot. i ended up getting it to fire for a couple seconds however never got much farther with the stale gas. now i plan on building a starter shaft with a one way bearing, however because i was to excited to hear it run i tried starting it before i got the shaft built, and the end result was broken roto start gears. ive bought the new style roto start, once it gets here ill try some fresh gas and get this beast running. and no, a drill just wont turn it fast enough. with the reduction ratio in the ring and pinion i end up with less than 700rpm at the crank with my drill on high. compare that with the roto start on 2s lipo, the crank hits around 2000rpm.
 
thatks.

there is absolutly no way to get a savage to work on a starter box. the revo works with that special starter box because it still has access to the flywheel being the motor is offset in the truck. in the savage the motor is centered and the rear driveshaft runs right below it.
 
Like I said just a bad thought as it turns out I do that from time to time must be getting old
How about one of those tiger drive starters out the back of motor
 
the thing with a tiger drive it is works off the same hardware as a pullstart, meaning the engines starter shaft and backplate on a pullstart engine. being a "bumpstart" engine (its a plane engine so they just start it with the prop) it doesn't have a starter shaft sticking through the backplate, so a tigerdrive, rotostart or pullstart isnt an option.
 
Ok wrong again crap my O my last try on you one way killer b makes one that looks like one way is on drill motor not on car I have not seen one just in photos
 
don't worry everybody has been suggesting a tiger drive to start this thing.

i forgot about the one way starter thing killer bee sells. if i remember its actually a hardware store piece for yard equipment. gonna have to look into that again.
 
good call on the killer bee piece. its acctualy made by troy-bilt. i picked one up tonight, had to make some changed to it, however im still using most of it.
 
Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks