Shock Fix

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Bajhaha

Member
Messages
20
I know a big complaint in the past with dbxl was the shocks. Seems like one of the major problems that I found was the shocks didnt use real o rings they seem to be black rubber almost like bushings each shock containing three in the lower cartridge. My shock shafts were getting hung up on these so what I did was replace them with silicone o rings that I found on Ebay. Works much better now giving the shock that buttery smooth feeling.

Just thought Id share what I was experiencing and a fix. So far no leaks.
 
Thanks for the help I was just gonna do the 5t swap but the price on them so I've ended up doing the DDM db430 shock and factory team silicone diff 6000 with this one ring I hoping it'll glide better will see
 
If some one would a shock cap with a bladder like the 5ive shocks then that would be great. I'm not sure if the 5ive Shock caps fit or not.

I will eventually do the 5ive swap. Maybe with the MIP shocks.
 
Hi there, just stumbled across this post, I just got a dbxl a week ago, and my shocks are heavily leaking from the bottom, I am assuming it's the o rings that have worn, would these o rings suggested from eBay be my solution perhaps? Do any of you use green slime on your o rings? And it's diff oil that you use in these shocks? Thanks guys
 
From what I read on the Losi5ive forums, dbxl section, it has some kind of spacer.

People have complained and go through the same situation looking for o-rings that may work.

Have not even checked what will or will not fit,but have you tried Harbor Freight o-ring sets?
 
Did these o rings stop your shocks from leaking? I am still using those black bushing type o rings at the moment, and I am looking for something better. How many metal shims do you use in the cartridge space, one on bottom, one on top? Cheers
 
My apologies for the misunderstanding.

I do not have a DBXL, what I posted earlier is from what I have read in the DBXL/Losi5ive forums.

Let me see if I can find that specific thread, it was almost exactly the same concern as yours of the shock leak problem.
 
Hey Guys, I have recently acquired a used DBXL. I was originally going to go with the Rovan SC or King Motor X2 as it is the same as the 5ive, but when this came across my path, I took it, as it was cheaper by a long way. I paid $500 for a DBXL with 29cc Zenoah and a few add on goodies, including uprated shock springs. I knew about the problem with the shocks, and thought that one with uprated springs might help.
After all the discussions on the forums, the shocks are the weakpoint of this buggy, along with drive pin failures. I am not going to be racing this, and most of its exploits will be bashing in soft sand, with very minor jumps, so the drive shafts shouldn't be subjected to too much stress...I hope.
As for the shocks, its very clear that there is very little damping happening, and the truck is like a pogo-stick with the uprated springs. So, I need to do something about it. I have ordered some shock rebuild kits, some 35wt oil and original springs, then I will do some experimenting. From what i can gather, the stock shock pistons have 4 holes that are too big, which means you have to use VERY thick oil to create damping, there is also no bladder for fluid movement and fluid displacement for the space the shock shaft fills when it compressed. This means that this is more an 'aeration' shock than a true sealed unit, and rebounds is always a problem with no bladder. It seems there will need to be some air in them. This then causes the 4-hole system to be even more inefficient. So, the rebuild kits seems to have 6 smaller holes, and this might be the answer. Before doing this, I will close off two of the existing 4 holes, and see if that creates a better effect. I don't think only 2 holes will work well enough and see myself working to the 6 hole system, and maybe close one of those off. Lots of messing about. I also want to try the stock springs as I don't know where this guy got the springs he put on it, but the are constantly under pre-load, even with the shock adjusters all the way at the top. This is not how a shock should work!. The length of the spring should allow that the adjusters determine ride-height, you shouldn't use pre-load to adjust ride height and in this case there is no ride height adjustment, the adjusters would only result in spring tension/pre-load.
Another thing I noticed, is that the rear suspension arms never reach the droop stops on the chassis! This means that the shock itself is acting as a droop stop!! This is NOT meant to happen. the shock should ONLY provide damping and not end point stopping. Either this thing was badly designed, or the shocks are on back to front.....I don't know if they are different lengths, will have to check. I see that they are sold in pairs for (front and rear). If there is no difference, then I will need to get some way to make the shock longer, and that is usually only capable through longer ball links on the bottom.
I have read a lot about these shocks, and hope I can make them an acceptable use before I go out an buy 5ive shocks. I see there is a guy on THE auction site that sells some alternative pistons, might lay my hands on some of those too.
I know I could just get 5ive shocks, but whats the fun in that? :)
 
Hey Guys, I have recently acquired a used DBXL. I was originally going to go with the Rovan SC or King Motor X2 as it is the same as the 5ive, but when this came across my path, I took it, as it was cheaper by a long way. I paid $500 for a DBXL with 29cc Zenoah and a few add on goodies, including uprated shock springs. I knew about the problem with the shocks, and thought that one with uprated springs might help.
After all the discussions on the forums, the shocks are the weakpoint of this buggy, along with drive pin failures. I am not going to be racing this, and most of its exploits will be bashing in soft sand, with very minor jumps, so the drive shafts shouldn't be subjected to too much stress...I hope.
As for the shocks, its very clear that there is very little damping happening, and the truck is like a pogo-stick with the uprated springs. So, I need to do something about it. I have ordered some shock rebuild kits, some 35wt oil and original springs, then I will do some experimenting. From what i can gather, the stock shock pistons have 4 holes that are too big, which means you have to use VERY thick oil to create damping, there is also no bladder for fluid movement and fluid displacement for the space the shock shaft fills when it compressed. This means that this is more an 'aeration' shock than a true sealed unit, and rebounds is always a problem with no bladder. It seems there will need to be some air in them. This then causes the 4-hole system to be even more inefficient. So, the rebuild kits seems to have 6 smaller holes, and this might be the answer. Before doing this, I will close off two of the existing 4 holes, and see if that creates a better effect. I don't think only 2 holes will work well enough and see myself working to the 6 hole system, and maybe close one of those off. Lots of messing about. I also want to try the stock springs as I don't know where this guy got the springs he put on it, but the are constantly under pre-load, even with the shock adjusters all the way at the top. This is not how a shock should work!. The length of the spring should allow that the adjusters determine ride-height, you shouldn't use pre-load to adjust ride height and in this case there is no ride height adjustment, the adjusters would only result in spring tension/pre-load.
Another thing I noticed, is that the rear suspension arms never reach the droop stops on the chassis! This means that the shock itself is acting as a droop stop!! This is NOT meant to happen. the shock should ONLY provide damping and not end point stopping. Either this thing was badly designed, or the shocks are on back to front.....I don't know if they are different lengths, will have to check. I see that they are sold in pairs for (front and rear). If there is no difference, then I will need to get some way to make the shock longer, and that is usually only capable through longer ball links on the bottom.
I have read a lot about these shocks, and hope I can make them an acceptable use before I go out an buy 5ive shocks. I see there is a guy on THE auction site that sells some alternative pistons, might lay my hands on some of those too.
I know I could just get 5ive shocks, but whats the fun in that? :)

I recently acquired a dbxl also, I havnt had the chance to give it a good run around yet, the guy I got it off raced it and said he spent alot of time with trial and error with these shocks, in the end he used blank pistons with 4x 2mm holes drilled, 25wt in the rear and 15wt in the front, using ddm 20% stronger Springs, I'll report back when I get the chance to get it out on a track.
 
Cathurga, are you sure you did not miss anything? Thats a write up right there, don't hesitate to post diys every and then.

Interesting, following this thread and see how all this shock dilemma turns out.
 
Crank, yeah sorry for the verbal diarrhea, I get carried away, lol. I'm just a little 'picky' since I fly large scale planes too....where not being a bit more precise, can mean the loss of mucho dinero...

Anyway, I started disassembling the shocks, and noted that the springs the previous owner put on were waay to strong, and also too long. the front shocks on this buggy are a little longer than the rear, but the springs he had are the same length, even with the adjusters wound all the way up, I had to fight the rears on. They are all four, under constant pre-load, and that's not right. As a result, the ride height cannot be adjusted at all. I actually think the buggy could do with rears being as long as the front. I will have to wait for my order for new springs and pistons to come in. I think with stock springs and some damping, it will improve things.
Ive heard that there are weird spacer/rubber things instead of O-rings on the shafts, but I wont change that until I can open them up and do the piston change first.
I noted that the mounting holes on the shock towers are also worn and are 'opened up' this is a result of the shock acting as a down-stop, so I changed them to the outermost holes and will run the buggy sparingly until I can get it sorted. Suppose I will need to get some shock towers as well not....
helllooo money-pit! Its worse than the planes....at least when the planes are up and running, they don't require much upkeep....
 
While I am waiting for my parts, is there anyone that would part with a set of dbxl front shocks? I want to do some experimenting with them.
Many people have moved to 5ive shocks so I'm hoping there will be some about that I can mess around with.
 
I don't know about you guys but I closed up the 4 holes with 4mm set screws and drilled 4 1.9mm holes I used a 5/64 drill bit and I'm running 35 wt losi shock oil with tge ddm springs I don't jump much so I layer the shocks down the upper shock in the inner most hole and the bottom in the outer most. My shock colors on the front are all the way up and the back are down about a 1/4 inch. This seems like a great set up for me. Most guys are use to smaller scale rc that have tons of rebound but if you look at a normal car if you push the shocks down they don't come all the way back up either. Just a thought
 
While I am waiting for my parts, is there anyone that would part with a set of dbxl front shocks? I want to do some experimenting with them.
Many people have moved to 5ive shocks so I'm hoping there will be some about that I can mess around with.
To be honest plug the holes with 4mm set screws and drill 5/64 inch holes about 1.9mm and fill with 35wt . use ddm hd springs. theirs plenty of other areas on the car that need more attention. I wouldn't wast my money on 5ive shocks. If you don't use shock limiters on the 5ive shocks you'll bend shock shafts left and right.
 
replacing with actual silicone o rings and green slime did stop my leaking. are the shocks on the new electric dbxl the same shocks just different color?
 
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