Shock Piston setup for Vekta/Vesla 4-hole vs 8-hole

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The Vesla and Vekta shocks come with two different pistons; a set of 4-hole and a set of 8-hole. I would assume for the Vesla, I would use the 8-hole. Any thoughts? I know that the 8-hole would allow a quicker rebound. It seems like maybe the 4-hole would be good if your rig had a big bore and extra weight?
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Your correct in the 4 vs 8.

If you were tuning and could not get it dialed with oil or spring rate then i would
4 Hole - Open up the 2 of the 4 holes a .0001, tune then the other 2 holes a .0001
8 Hole - Plug 2 holes to make a 6
8 Hole - Open up 4 holes a .0001
Rinse and repeat but i suspect 90% of the tuning has already been done and the remaining 10% is driver preference.
Bigger motors, power, terrain will dictate your next move
 
Your correct in the 4 vs 8.

If you were tuning and could not get it dialed with oil or spring rate then i would
4 Hole - Open up the 2 of the 4 holes a .0001, tune then the other 2 holes a .0001
8 Hole - Plug 2 holes to make a 6
8 Hole - Open up 4 holes a .0001
Rinse and repeat but i suspect 90% of the tuning has already been done and the remaining 10% is driver preference.
Bigger motors, power, terrain will dictate your next move
Thanks for the info. I'll start with the 8-hole
 
I'm still in the process of building mine (have the SBK)...but, to start, I'm going to be testing out the following. With the thicker 250 in the rear, I'll be running the 8-hole pistons. However, with the thinner 150 up front, I'm starting with the 4-hole pistons. Of course, I won't be launching my VESLA 20ft in the air...I'll be primarily running in desert terrain. If it works, great...and, if not, that's when I'll start "playing around" with the tuning.
 
Does anyone think the prescribed shock weights 150/250 are a tad light? IE: for a truck this heavy I’d expect closer to 575cst (45wt). I’m still learning suspension though, so please educate me!
The 150 rear is way soft, vekta or vesla. In my vesla I putvthe hdcrear springs to hold up the taylor 50 and have bumped up to 40 cst so far and may go thicker when I get my jumps built.
 
The 150 rear is way soft, vekta or vesla. In my vesla I putvthe hdcrear springs to hold up the taylor 50 and have bumped up to 40 cst so far and may go thicker when I get my jumps built.
Uh...you do know, the 150 is for the front only? If you out 150 in the rear, no wonder is too soft. You're supposed to use the 250 in the rear.
 
Could be? The vekta was 150 rear, my vesla was a big block roller from taylor and was pre-built
But still way soft with the stock fluid and hd springs
As with all RCs, the best thing to do is test, try, tune, change, try, tube, change, try, tune...until you get it where you want it. But, I'd definitely start with what Kraken intended (150 front, 250 rear).
 
Uh...you do know, the 150 is for the front only? If you out 150 in the rear, no wonder is too soft. You're supposed to use the 250 in the rear.
The manual calls for 250 in the front 150 in the rear. I agree with doing the opposite due to the weight being mostly in the rear. I’m bumping my weights to 30/35 when I get to the build.
 
Pics for reference(I think some of us are talking Vesla and some are talking Vekta). Me personally, i went to 40wt in the rear of my Vekta because it was kicking up too much on little bumps. I found the front to be adequate. Vesla is to be determined. I have to see how it handles for me.1000000804.jpg1000000803.jpg
 
The manual calls for 250 in the front 150 in the rear. I agree with doing the opposite due to the weight being mostly in the rear. I’m bumping my weights to 30/35 when I get to the build.
Incorrect. You have it backwards. It is 150cst front, 250cst rear, exactly as I stated. That being said, as others have mentioned, I do think the indicated weights is a bit on the 'light' side. With my X-MAXX, I run 55/85wt. If course, the two vehicles have entirely different purposes...I'll test, see how it does, and adjust as needed.

Screenshot_20240624_064531_Drive.jpg
 
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Interesting. The online manual is inconsistent with what you boys posted. My mistake.

Also in the printer manual you’ll see little gas/oil can icons with the weights they call for. 250 front 150 rear. Maybe an Easter egg we found here gents.

IMG_1198.png
 
Interesting. The online manual is inconsistent with what you boys posted. My mistake.

Also in the printer manual you’ll see little gas/oil can icons with the weights they call for. 250 front 150 rear. Maybe an Easter egg we found here gents.

View attachment 93967
Interesting, because my printed manual also shows 150cst front, 250cst rear. When I initially replied, it has been a long day, I was tired, and almost ready for bed. My next two replies were right after walking, thus brain still wasn't working 'right''...lol.

Now that my coffee has kicked in, and my brain is a bit more 'functional', I started thinking back to when I raced (ie. before moving to Las Vegas). The 'standard' is heavier weight up front for 2WD, and heavier weight in the rear for AWD. So, what I'm guessing is, in regards to the newer VESLA SBK manual, it's the one containing the error. In all probability, the RTR manual is correct, thus 250cst front & 150cst rear. This could also explain why many have recommended going with the (optional/upgrade) stiffer springs in the rear (especially if running all the (heavier) machined aluminum parts). I haven't ordered them yet, but they are in my 'wishlist', and will be a part of my "phase 2" upgrades.
 
maybe kraken themselves did an edit to the manuals after running them awhile, and both versions are still kicking around depending where you find it. they may have wanted to save the original weight bottles and just swapped front to back? never the less it depends on your finished set up vehicle weight, power, and running surfaces, then even personal taste of handling to get you to the perfect shock weight oil. whats perfect for one may be way off for another. thats what forums are best at, sharing person experiences and watching the posts fly when there are differences. lol
 
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