Vekta.5 lse under construction

[Rceverywhere]

Lots of fun building this beast! Cant get over the size and weight of everything. Just moved in and as soon as my table was standing I started to build, cause I knew I would need the whole table and will most likely be that last time its empty, what's on the floor was on the table at my last place. Build first organize later.

Got esp modified and ported, aloy front diff, front knuckles and spindle carriers, steering link, steering top plate, all irp links, dual steering servo, brake upgrade, thumb pegs for the pullstart, front shield or firewall, did the 1 inch shrink tube over the drive cups and going to see how it holds onto the driveshaft, one surprise was the front bumper brace cracked before the screw was half way in, but I think it might hold awhile???
Got some vertigo quick pins and a few other things ordered.

Couldn't decide what wheels I wanted so got two choices and just threw on some dupli color fake chrome paint, will see how it holds up but easy to redo, stock and ddm mad max tires for different days, also got the kill switch in and there is already a gap in the plastic cover to let the wire out. Going to try two cheap servos instead of one good one, works out cheaper and you get more gears to absorb the hits and more torque to boot.
More to come as progress is made

You may have noticed I used the plastic servo arms, i think this is a mistake also, but i didn't order any, no metal arms came with my cheap servos and none in the kit. Wanted to set up the steering links and set up the endpoints ... cheap radio, going to try setting up my fly sky noble. Also got the vertigo chassis brace on, thought I took a nice picture of it, but didn't click when I should have.

 

[spents]

looking good fella ,
looks like you have the plastic cover on the rear axle, ditch it and grab a kraken or taylor rc alloy one instead, the plastic ones are warped from the get go,
pretty sure most people on here will agree with that comment

 

[Rep732]

I concur with Paul, I went to an alloy one

 

[Ferrebee88]

looking good fella ,
looks like you have the plastic cover on the rear axle, ditch it and grab a kraken or taylor rc alloy one instead, the plastic ones are warped from the get go,
pretty sure most people on here will agree with that comment

Definitely! The Turtle Racing diff cover worked well for me.

 

[Rceverywhere]

Yep, it's warped big time
Has anyone used it anyway?
Once all the screws are tight it's much better, contemplating using clear silicone to keep the dirt out.
I also want the upper arm link in metal... but the option list I want far exceeds my next couple months of pay... lol
Ok several months pay

 

[Rceverywhere]

Coming together nice, was test fitting the pipe and touches the radio antenna and the return fuel line so bits of ajustements to figure out for that. My work table is still full so i moved on to another room and moved some stuff to make room for the freshly painted body panels. The vekta cage makes an outcast 8s almost disappear!
Found 2 orange o rings, two thin flat washers and two screws in the bag with the vinyl stickers???
No mention in the book,
has anyone found a place for them?
Maybe another secret update to the kit? Lol
Also is it easier to put the vinyl wrap with the panels loose or on the cage? The screws and washers that hold the panels seem to grip the wrap and spin it when done buy a novice .... like me, lol

 

[Rep732]

The stuff in that bag that goes to nothing is for spares.

 

[Rceverywhere]

I was worried for a second, kinda looks like the shock rings

 

[Rceverywhere]

Still have parts coming from ddm but the rear aloy rear cover isn't on this order, so I just put some sealant to keep the dirt out. When I order the top and bottom rear link connectors to the diff I'll get it for sure. There's barely a gap on the sides once tightened so I don't think there's any problem to worry about. Maybe the 12s vekta E diff will come out as an option in the meantime, it seems to have more bolts on the cover.

 

[spents]

just do the final turns on the panel screws veeeeeeery slowly fella,
then you should be fine with them not wrinkling the wrap

 

[Rceverywhere]

just do the final turns on the panel screws veeeeeeery slowly fella,
then you should be fine with them not wrinkling the wrap

Ya, having the wrap over the screws would be silly

 

[spents]

Ya, having the wrap over the screws would be silly

and yeh i meant to say, panels off tp do the wrap

 

[Rceverywhere]

Got the sticks on, bent the antenna tube forward, and cut the return line shorter for pipe to go on, but the best work is the vekta.5 lse sticker from the sticker sheets, even got a spare left!

 

[Rceverywhere]

What does everyone think about what to use for fuel?
Searching the site lead to just a few hits and the range of what was used is kinda all over the place.
Bought myself this octane boost and I use maxima 927 mixing oil, usually use Petro Canada 94 octane, but not sure if i should splurge and get vp racing gas by the five gallon, saw 100 street and 104 race when i picked up the octane boost, but until now that I'm ready fire up didn't interest me

 

[Seandonato73]

You don't need more then pump hightest... and unless your gonna dump that whole bottle of octane boost in a gallon or two, it's not going to raise the octane by more then a few points.

 

[Rceverywhere]

Been waiting and waiting...for what seems like forever, got info from ddm direct to use premium gas and the best oil possible, my maxima 927 has his approval, but the octane boosters are a crock of poo! You need to use a 1:1 ratio if you want to raise your octane a few points! Then I mentioned that in Canada even our premium has ethanol, so he said to be sure and remove any gas from the tank and idle the engine dry and it shouldn't be a problem, I also put the spiral diaphragm in the carb to lessen the chance of running lean one day after sitting.
I was trying to support my lhs but after waiting a month he texts me to say my order was in ... um where's the rest? Back order he says, check the site and instantly created an account and made an even bigger order, it was all still in stock!
Since I've been waiting put my old hpi 26cc pullstart that had an outerwares pullstart cover, firewall shield, and instead of the 16$ tube ddm offers I used 3 1/3 inches of rubber fuel line to get the handle with in reach( cost me 0, had it in my toolbox leftover) I have a sickness...I keep everything! Even a half broken summit axle, and what do you know next time I broke the other side and used it. Am I crazy? Or what?

 

[Rep732]

The spiral diaphragm isn't going to stop you from going lean, also you will find that castor 927 will leave heavy carbon deposits on the top of your piston that's why I stopped using it. For a zenoah engine like that there is absolutely no need to be using anything higher than 93, I use a white fuel that is 92 octane and is zero ethanol.

 

[Rceverywhere]

---

Oh great, the reason I started with the maxima was a comment from a user that said his engine was so clean when he opened it. No the spiral is not a guarantee for no lean, but it will not get warped from any type of fuel, had that alot with my first engines, first oil klotz, then I started using Lucas but also started to empty my tank and engine of fuel. Honestly the maxima oil stinks when I run and I miss the wonderful smell and comments of the smell of klotz

 

[Rep732]

Yea the castor oil is excellent at doing its job but it does leave horrible deposits. At one time I was concerned the build up would contact the top of the cylinder. Here's a pic of my last tear down with castor 927, this engine got dusted from sand ingestion and had only about an hour with being wide open majority of the time.

 

[Rceverywhere]

Um, eewww. What il do you like now?