Starting issues 1:5 rc
- Thread starter JSoto777
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
BertR
Well-Known Member
Try reseting your coil to the flywheel...take a business card and roll it between the magnet and coil, press them together and retighten the coil before you take out the card.. I know you said it has spark but it may not be enuff to get proper fire. It is worth a shot because simple things can become the big pain in the rear.
RampageHopUps
Well-Known Member
If he is getting a good spark, its not the coil or the button. Its the gas mixture.
Where do you live?
Where do you live?
JSoto777
Member
- Thread starter
- #25
I tried the 28:1 mixture and did not work at all.
I did however try the mixture on a weed eater and it started right up.
I did notice while pumping the bulb on the carb for the rc, that the gas was flowing rather slow to the carb. I had to pump like 10 times. Also there were bubles and I pumped till those were out of inlet tube. There was still bubles in the outgoing tube however.
Is it possible to over prime or under prime??
The weed eater took only 3 pumps and it was full
I did however try the mixture on a weed eater and it started right up.
I did notice while pumping the bulb on the carb for the rc, that the gas was flowing rather slow to the carb. I had to pump like 10 times. Also there were bubles and I pumped till those were out of inlet tube. There was still bubles in the outgoing tube however.
Is it possible to over prime or under prime??
The weed eater took only 3 pumps and it was full
rcplayground
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 54
- Reaction score
- 0
If you take the fan cover off you will see a black thing above the flywheel. That is the coil. The gap between the flywheel and coil should be the width of a business card. Also you might want to try a 25:1 fuel mixture and try using premium gasJSoto777 said:
rcplayground
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 54
- Reaction score
- 0
Yes. 91 or higher. Here in Michigan premium gas is 91 octaneJSoto777 said:
G
Guest
Guest
Check to see if your plug is wet. If it is you have flooded it.
Don't pull it more than a few times with the choke on, even if you don't get a pop.
Don't pull it more than a few times with the choke on, even if you don't get a pop.
Sergio1
Senior Member
Do you have a killswich and if yes witch one I have the ramtech on my xb and I could not get it started so after sweating bullets and a hand full of blisters I shut the reciver off and it started I don't know if that's normal or what but that's how mine is. If I shut the control it kills the engine I don't know if the killer bee killswitch works the same but if you have a ramtech killswich you can try that too cause as far as I know everything has to be on but like I said mine when I have the reciver on it won't start just my 2 cents
JSoto777
Member
- Thread starter
- #33
I will try this Tomorro. However it has started before and the receiver was on. But I will give it a try just to knock that off the list. HaSergio said:
By kill switch do u mean the kill engine button on the engine? Or the fail safe that is plugged into a Channel?
Sergio1
Senior Member
No I think the failsafe is different the killswitch shuts down the engine if you lose signal or your battery dies or if your servo fails you shut your radio and that kills your engine if you don't have one nevermind I had my share of my 2 redcats not starting I know how it feels hope you can fix it soon
G
Guest
Guest
Not to get off topic but......
That fail safe needs to hit the trash.... The receiver has a built in failsafe. You really need to be running a remote kill switch.
If you are getting spark your issue is not electronic.
That fail safe needs to hit the trash.... The receiver has a built in failsafe. You really need to be running a remote kill switch.
If you are getting spark your issue is not electronic.
JSoto777
Member
- Thread starter
- #36
Ok so electronics is out of the picture.RCDAD said:Not to get off topic but......That fail safe needs to hit the trash.... The receiver has a built in failsafe. You really need to be running a remote kill switch.
If you are getting spark your issue is not electronic.
So what else do you think it could be? Just a fuel problem?
G
Guest
Guest
That only leaves the fuel/air...
Air leaks can cause bad running issues.
-Check to make sure the two head bolts are tight.
-Check to make sure the carb bolts are tight.
Is this a new vehicle?
If no the the plastic intakes are prone to warping which can cause an air leak.
You first stated that if did run but had high rpms, enough to engage the clutch. High rpms can be caused from a lean condition. Either carb setting or an air leak can cause you to be lean.
Air leaks can cause bad running issues.
-Check to make sure the two head bolts are tight.
-Check to make sure the carb bolts are tight.
Is this a new vehicle?
If no the the plastic intakes are prone to warping which can cause an air leak.
You first stated that if did run but had high rpms, enough to engage the clutch. High rpms can be caused from a lean condition. Either carb setting or an air leak can cause you to be lean.
JSoto777
Member
- Thread starter
- #38
Where are the head bolts? I'm pretty sure I tightened them already but just in case, I might have overlooked them. Also yes this is a new vehicle. Off bolts are not tight I'll tighten them and see what happens. If it still does nor start then I will adjust my lsn correct? Ccw to make it richerRCDAD said:That only leaves the fuel/air...Air leaks can cause bad running issues.
-Check to make sure the two head bolts are tight.
-Check to make sure the carb bolts are tight.
Is this a new vehicle?
If no the the plastic intakes are prone to warping which can cause an air leak.
You first stated that if did run but had high rpms, enough to engage the clutch. High rpms can be caused from a lean condition. Either carb setting or an air leak can cause you to be lean.
Can the settings in the carb really cause this much of a headache tho??
Phill2
Well-Known Member
To get to the head bolts you need to take the plastic cover off the top of the motor and you'll see 2 holes in the cooling fins.You'll need a long allen key to reach the bolts.JSoto777 said:
Yep the needles can cause all the probs.
You need to adjust them in very small increments - a little can make a big difference.
JSoto777
Member
- Thread starter
- #40
Ok so since mine isn't starting what do u suggest I do first. Settings are factory, should I richer or lean and which needle? Could wrong settings on the idle screw cause starting issues?? How many pulls before I flood? How long do I wait in between pulls.Phill said:
Another thing, I forgot to mention. I'm thinking it could be just a ratio or gas or oil problem. I remember when I first got the car it didn't a start with a 25:1 ratio. I finally decided to use some of my brother in laws gas that allready was mixed for a weed waker. And it started first pull.
I then bought new oils and unleaded gas I think 89 octane and it did not work. The oil was a semi synthetic high performance Lucas 2 cycle oil.
So I then put my brother in laws gas in and still nothing. I then changed the hoses and wala! It started ran it one full tank then put the rest of the fuel my brother in law had( which filled tank half way) when I was close to runing out that tank I added my new mix that was 40:1 with my oil to see if it would work. And when I killed the engine to attempt, nothing
I don't know exactly what oil he had but he said it was synthetic. I don't know what ratio either. He just mentioned it was a small Bottle to a gallon of gas.