Startup Failure

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I had same problem when my my came I thought they sold me a lemon this is what worked for me turn truck off remove spark plug MANUALLY OPEN THROTTLE WITH HAND HOLD IT OPEN PULL CORD 30-40 TIMES open choke pull cord until it fires . It took me 45 min to get it started the first time after that it starts every time no problem car will only run with choke open hope this helps
 
Watched snappy rc vídeo and he said put vent and return hose about 1/2 or 1/4 thru grommet and other hose 4in with filter. Can someone please tell me if I suppose to cut the brass fittings to that length so I can get this project started.

Thanks
 
You don't want the vent line to be submerged, so if you're going to run a brass fitting on it, cut it so it's about 1/4" through the grommet. The return line can be submerged, so length isn't that critical, you don't have to cut the fitting. The pickup line should be long enough so the clunk sits at the lowest spot in the tank, you don't have to cut the fitting for this one, either.
 
Deluge said:
You don't want the vent line to be submerged, so if you're going to run a brass fitting on it, cut it so it's about 1/4" through the grommet. The return line can be submerged, so length isn't that critical, you don't have to cut the fitting. The pickup line should be long enough so the clunk sits at the lowest spot in the tank, you don't have to cut the fitting for this one, either.
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Got it ok thanks.
 
Hope for others, I got the lemon!

After a month of delays I finally got it started and got to drive it. Great fun to drive if it would only run more than about 10 minutes without stalling and refusing to restart within 30 mins.

I've managed over many short runs to dial in my needles. I'm set with 7/8 on low and 1 1/8 to 1 1/16 turn on high. I've vented the tank and do not detect any vaccumn at the cap all looks good there. My plug is essentially black with small brown tint, wet. Drying it sometimes it restarts, but usually not within an hour or so.

When it dies it is sitting at idle for 5 - 10 seconds, after a 1/2 to 3/4 pull for less than 5 seconds. Like it is loading up fuel and choking out. I'm already so lean on the low needle, another 1/16 lean and it falls down it won't idle or start. Even with needles set for running it takes at least 8 - 10 pulls to get going, never an easy start. The 5h plug (stock) is hotter than the 6h or 7h it is running on 6h the engine has never started on 5h even after a warm up. I don't have a problem on a shut down and restart other than it takes 3 - 4 pulls.

I'm still breaking in and have only made two runs with WOT no more than 3 seconds after top revs. Just listening for the rpms to level then releasing for now.

Now other symptom of note is it is always about the time I achieve 200 degrees or so (216 top reading so far). I know that heat can cause resistance buildup in the coil. Could be my spark is loosing punch. Is there a way to meter test the coils? Anyone know the specks?

So looks like shopping time again. Coil and Carb in the basket.

Hmm maybe just skip the BS and OBR it!
 
I run a cmr4h with no problems... The # rating is for the heat dissipation qualities of the plug. It sounds like your carb is a miss and the tank needs vented...I would get this thing going before splurging on a new power plant that you could possibly have similar issues at a higher expenses. Just saying that a new motor is not always the best solution ....Knowledge of trouble shooting these turds is worth a new motor.
 
New Carb and Coil

Installed a new carb and coil. Factory settings on the carb it started right up within 3 pulls. Ran it around for half a tank with no stalling and pretty well tuned right in. :D

While waiting for parts, I modified my battery box to include a grommet for wire entry and coated the grommet and wires with some liquid tape. I can loosen screws and swivel the lid for battery access. The rear of the lid was catching between the box and engine. So I dremeled the upper edge just a little at the pinch area so battery access is much better but the screw under the carb is a pain. I shortened the screw about half which helped but finally decided to leave it out. The lid sits well without any gap and I'm not out near big water anyway. Sure would like better battery access though, but so far haven't figured up anything better. I don't want the battery sitting up behind the front tower, I know that.

I noticed some rub on the battery so put some duct tape over that area. I found some self stick foam about 1/16" thick in school supply isle. Lined the box 3 sides and bottom with the foam to secure the battery in place nice and snug now.
 
Mike4130 said:
. Are you using the factory plug? Try getting an NGK it usually solves the problem. Did you say you haven't been using the choke? I would try closing the choke, 2-3 slow pulls to suck some fuel into the chamber and give it a pull now. 2-3 and you should hear a pop, open the choke and pull again 2-3 times, should start right up. Worst case scenario, check the gap on the coil. the gap should be the thickness of a business card.
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This is my sons car. NGK plug and 3 pulls with choke on and a pop. Choke off and one pull and its running

easy
 
cs49230 said:
Installed a new carb and coil. Factory settings on the carb it started right up within 3 pulls. Ran it around for half a tank with no stalling and pretty well tuned right in. :D While waiting for parts, I modified my battery box to include a grommet for wire entry and coated the grommet and wires with some liquid tape. I can loosen screws and swivel the lid for battery access. The rear of the lid was catching between the box and engine. So I dremeled the upper edge just a little at the pinch area so battery access is much better but the screw under the carb is a pain. I shortened the screw about half which helped but finally decided to leave it out. The lid sits well without any gap and I'm not out near big water anyway. Sure would like better battery access though, but so far haven't figured up anything better. I don't want the battery sitting up behind the front tower, I know that.

I noticed some rub on the battery so put some duct tape over that area. I found some self stick foam about 1/16" thick in school supply isle. Lined the box 3 sides and bottom with the foam to secure the battery in place nice and snug now.
Click to expand...
I'm glad to hear you're finally running! My factory carb gave me a lot of trouble also. Have fun.
 
Same with me for both my kits. The factory carb was such a pita. Factory settings didnt start them both. So had to do an eight of a turn everytime till i heard some combustion. But then finally got it going and tuned right there and then. Then tuned after break in. They both run great now with the factory carb. Although id be ordering two walbros preety soon.
 
Two tanks emptied since carb and coil exchange. So I've been able to drive out a little over 3 tanks total. Got rain moving in for the next 3 days per the weatherman. So time for a full tear down and inspect, clean, check shims and rebuild.

Want to tear down the tires and inspect for a cause of there being 1 3/8 oz difference between all wheel balances. While the tires are off the wheels I plan to dial gauge for trueness and balance wheels and beadlocks then see how the tires effect that balance.

Had to re-torque my throttle linkage collar set screw several times, it hasn't moved in the last 1/2 tank.
 
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