stock diff

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Gus

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hey guys, ive been playing around a little with my truck but i havnt yet taken it offroad.

the diff cover is allrdy banged and scrached up though from small rocks on the pavement i guess. i think this is really CRAP that a new FG have such a week point as the open diff is.

it still works fine but im gonna see if i can make some sort of protection for it..

ill post pictures when its done.

if anyone have ideas or maybe theres some closed diff to buy i dunno.

anyways im gonna put my thinking cap on and see what i can construct
 
FG doesn't ever improve their products. We keep buying them as is and fixing the weak points by buying their hop up parts, so why should they.

I mean adding the harder steel sleeve (literally a piece of cut down pipe is all it is) would only add 50 cents to the car, but they will never do it.
 
The FG 8484 diff kit is a good way to go from stock if you don't want to spend alot. It is less than $100 and gives you an alloy diff case and thicker sleeve.

Even if you replace just the sleeve now you might be faced with a broken diff casing. If you don't catch this in time it can screw up the bevel gears inside.

On my Firehammer the diff case broke, the bevel gear mesh got out of whack and the gears got all chewed up. The minimum I could have spent to get it all back together with stock parts was about $80. I ended up getting the FG 8485/5 2-way, manually adjustable limited slip diff. It has been a great investment for the limited slip. I also had to buy FG drive cups (different than Firehammer drive cups). All said it was about $210.
 
ok, thanx for the nice tutorial
i had alrdy made a "cover" i wanna bash it some this weekend and i had to make something quick.

the plastic is 3.5millimiter thick and the glue is the type you attach front windows in cars with, very durable and wont shake loose ( thats atleast what my popinlaw said, hes a glasier or what ever you guys call ppl that work with glass :cool2: )

it doesn't touch any of the mooving parts so i think it will be fine, atleast as a temporary solution.

tell me what you think ? :clown:
 

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Careful, what ever the size openings you do leave if something the size of the opening enters it will bounce around not able to get out and chew even more. The silicone will work the best by not allowing anything large under the diff, that is where the damage takes place.

hpiguy FG doesn't ever improve their products. We keep buying them as is and fixing the weak points by buying their hop up parts, so why should they.

I mean adding the harder steel sleeve (literally a piece of cut down pipe is all it is) would only add 50 cents to the car, but they will never do it.
Click to expand...

So true even the clones could improve to get one step ahead.:no:
 
Bigger the Better said:
Careful, what ever the size openings you do leave if something the size of the opening enters it will bounce around not able to get out and chew even more. The silicone will work the best by not allowing anything large under the diff, that is where the damage takes place.
Click to expand...

I was gonna say that. The piece in the back should be removed for sure to allow small rocks to get out of there IF they do get in.
 
My stock Firehammer diff sleeve had tons of shallow grooves in it but it appeared to be thick enoug not to tear like that but I don't know.

My FG 8485 diff has a nice dent in it where a rock got trapped between the diff case and one of the diff riser block supports. I don't know if I will ever be able to take the sleeve off without cutting it off.

I guess I'll be running my diff until it's won't go or makes a bad noise and then I will cut it open and replace the sleeve. For now it performs well.
 
you don't think that anything can come in from behind?

maybe just take off a cm off the bottom on back plate?

thanks a lot for your input guys, much apriciated!
 
Rocks are going to be thrown all around the car when taking off. Based on the angle of the roosters I have seen I would expect some of the rocks to rain down over the air filter and carb and work their way into the diff area between the engine and diff (in front of the diff).
 
My dogbone snapped on my Firehammer MT and the outdrive flew out of the diff (which incidentally is fine). Naturally, I can only slide in one outdrive as the opposite one will not line up. Is there an easy way to get the sleeve off without having to peel it? I have the FG Alloy Differential and whatever sleeve came with it. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Also, any suggestions to getting an allen head screw that is stripped (head part) out of an alloy engine mount on the bottom of my Firehammer? I'm thinking I'll have to drill it out and just hope I can get the screw removed using a vise.
 
csp1971 said:
My dogbone snapped on my Firehammer MT and the outdrive flew out of the diff (which incidentally is fine). Naturally, I can only slide in one outdrive as the opposite one will not line up. Is there an easy way to get the sleeve off without having to peel it? I have the FG Alloy Differential and whatever sleeve came with it. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Also, any suggestions to getting an allen head screw that is stripped (head part) out of an alloy engine mount on the bottom of my Firehammer? I'm thinking I'll have to drill it out and just hope I can get the screw removed using a vise.
Click to expand...

Sounds like its time to peel the diff case off, the metal is soft and weak, its easy.
Have you tried dremelling a groove in the allen head to slot a flat blade screwdriver in it to unscrew? heat it up if locktited, may save you drilling the whole screw out
 
Thanks for your response! I notched it yesterday and broke off the screwdriver tip in the notch. LOL. Then just used some vice grips to attach to the washer and turned. It unscrewed it right out.

Crud. I was hoping I wouldn't have to peel off the diff case! Oh well. At least the gears are okay from what I can feel when I turn one of the outdrives.
 
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