stumped

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Ol' fart

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Got a new Chamera and I can't get it to start. Even using an electric starter, nothing. Is it possible the shut down switch is bad?
 
If the plug is dry, and primer is full, try covering the intake [extra choke] or a splash of fuel in the plug hole.

Also maybe idle or needles may be off.?
 
If plug is wet you are flooded. Leave plug out over night to dry out the cylinder.
 
Runs now, I flooded it. Not too sure about the carb settings. Seems like it's rich but the L is at 3/4 and the H is 1 1/4. The problem is the spring gets depressed all the way down before the needle bottoms out so I don't really know what the settings are. Should I trust the factory and tune it after break in ? Also, the break in is 8 hours!! Really??
 
When I break in my engines I do a warm up run to get it up to operating temperature and give it hell from there. The carbs are set rich for break-in. I usually tune for performance around the second tank.

Standard factory settings are 1 1/4 on the LSN and 1 1/2 on the HSN.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks for that. Two tanks thru it now. I started with a half gallon of 20 to 1 so I'll run that thru and call it done.

Some of this trick oil say's 50 to 1. Is it safe to run that light of mix?
 
You definitely need to run more oil. I never run less oil than 32:1. Remember when you run a lean air to fuel mixture for performance you want more oil in the mix. I have also read that more oil in the fuel gives better compression. I now run 25:1 all the time.
 
NOT suggesting to do this-- Lots of Dirt bikers - trials guys, desert racers, single track trail riders- ect, swear by Bel-Ray mc1 two stroke oil- pre-mix. Run it up to 100 to 1. say it burns clean- lol! The bike repair shops love it too-- love rebuilding crankshafts- usually lower connecting rod bearings. I rode this guys Gas-Gas 280 trials bike. What a kick in the ass- fun-fun. But i could hear the lower connecting rod noise- part throttle- no load on the engine- not that many miles on it either-- Tried to reason with them- -- just fyi.
 
I just received mine it wouldn't start either. what I had to do is remove the flywheel cover and set the gap between the mag coil and the flywheel by using a business card. and then changed the spark plug and held the throttle wide open and crank it until it finally started. and now its fine
 
I hear the spark plugs suck the first thing I did was change the spark plug ! Right after I broke it in ! Always carry extra spark plugs and I only use Ngk !
 
The thing that cracks me up is that the almighty CMR7H IMO. is a piece of crap plug ... Every one that I have purchased has fowled with in a gallon of fuel. The champion plug was better than the CMR7H by a long shot but still not as reliable as my stock 1 year and 7 month old plug that gets ran hard and put away wet.You may say Bravo Sierra..but hey this is my personal experience with the plug that so many recommend with high regards. My altitude may be a factor at about 5000ft but I highly doubt it. Remember this is my experience with the name brand plug so get 1 of each and see witch holds out the longest
 
I used the stock spark plug threw 7 full tanks in my Chimera no probs until I upgraded to ngk crm7 just for preventative maintenance
 
RCDAD said:
They may work, but can trigger the remote kill switch.
Click to expand...
definitely putting out some signal noise there.

28:1 to 32:1 for me seems decent performance without starving the thing.

i'm on belray so far so good nearing 10 gal. very clean
 
John Blaze said:
I used the stock spark plug threw 7 full tanks in my Chimera no probs until I upgraded to ngk crm7 just for preventative maintenance
Click to expand...
Might need to check the gap. ;)
 
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