Styrene building

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Going to be another nice one I think.There is a bloke on modelsport for um that makes cracking scale stuff from styrene,JTS Customs I think:rolleyes:

J
 
The Kahn Design Defender is coming along nicely, messing around with styrene is much more fun than I ever thought it would be!

 
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nice work hemi ive also started playing with styrene im half way through making a rear diffuser for my fg bmw thanks to these vids and its great to work with
 
'Mid-European' !! :lol::lol:
We're so lazy in UK - no-one gives a monkey's about trying to learn another language, then gets upset at the Frenchman when he doesn't reply, in English, in the middle of Paris!!
Al.
 
'Mid-European' !! :lol::lol:
We're so lazy in UK - no-one gives a monkey's about trying to learn another language, then gets upset at the Frenchman when he doesn't reply, in English, in the middle of Paris!!
Al.

Speak for yourself Al.I can speak German,French decent Spanish a quiet a bit of Cantonese.Man of many talents you see.
J
 
Haha, it's Dutch! I'm originally from the nearabouts of Amsterdam, and moved to Norway two years ago. I speak Dutch, German, Swedish, Norwegian, French and English.


 
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I remembered you saying you were from Sweden in an earlier instalment - probably your European tour - but your accent did remind my of my old Dutch mate I met in a previous job I had ....

Excellent work, once again, by the way.
Hope Land Rover don't have you for renaming their product!!
Al.
 
Excellent work,looks like the MK 2 Escort X=Pack arches.:w00t:

I think Hemi sounds a bit like Arnold Schwarzenegger > If the build doesn't go right you could correct it with an "Uzi 9mm":lol::lol::lol:

J;)
 
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A very Merry Christmas to everybody! Here is a Kahn Defender update, I hope you will enjoy it. :)

 
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4 months after I ordered, my bumpers came in. Finally. I got the clear Mojave parts and the chrome parts (which were very black and not shiny at all) as well, so I can put some Tokyo Drift stroboscope lights in the bumper to go along with the brushless Velineon system. This is of course nonsense, some regular LEDs may get fitted in there. If I can make sense of it, as it will be the first lightkit I will ever install.

Bumpers: love the finish on the rear, the front was less well finished, but it will do. I fitted one of those fancy winch things too, to pull it further on the shelf once done. I think these have been replaced by the WARN winch by now. I wish I would have been warned beforehand, as licensed stuff is always pretty kewl.

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Living in Norway, I needed to get a Viking fairlead to make my in laws proud. Shows them "the immigrant" is at least making an effort to integrate in a modern day Scandinavian society. The fairlead came with pre-weathering in the form of some mild rust. (Could be poor quality control, but I expect the package being sent to my customs loophole in Sweden, failing, getting sent back to the US, and back to Norway again, a whopping 20,000 mile journey in a less than weather resistant box may also have played a part in this undesired finish.)

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On the rear Survivor bumper I fitted some King Kong shackles, to be able to tie the car down to a shelf firmly once completed. I also added some mudflaps which will flop around nicely when the wind blows through the open window of my hobby room. In order to do this, I needed to keep the stock bumper in place, which also allows me to keep the center mounting tab, as the sides need to be cut off to make room for the mudflaps.

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I fitted the steering-link-protector-skidplate-thing, posing a problem in fitting the bumper. It also sat way too close to the body when mounted directly. Hopefully fitting some Onyx rims will draw the attention away from the fact I decided to mount the new ARB bumper over the existing one, giving the car a bit of a pout.

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Got my hammer out and a few blocks of wood to beat the following pile of parts into submission. Got the diamond plate set from Arches RC. Finish on these parts is killer. Makes me scared to touch it, it's ridiculously detailed. Tips on how to best glue stainless to stainless apart from MIG welding it are very welcome.

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Here the front tips of the stainless are caught in the act, mocking me, being non-cooperating. A few punches later they weren't that smart with me anymore.

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The sides are very nice. Need to drill the holes to mount the body to the chassis in the lower parts, and cut the rear ones in half to make them work with the fenders, but they look good on there. I think.

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And beaten into submission.

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Next up is the interior, which I'm still working on. I want it to look very robust, so diamond plate on the entire floor. I got the sheets from RC4WD, with tin snips they are easy to work on. I still need to trim some of the edges, but the overall idea is there. The ProLine toolbox looked too much like a coffin in the set up in the pics, so I turned it 90 degrees and moved it to the trunk. I opted for Corbeau Wraith seats to get the Kahn look, most likely a loud colour like red combined with black will set them off the way I want. I still need to finish the dash, and want to alter the center console, and add one between the rear seats too. With cup holders. Of course. My scale people will drink scale beer when it's a hot summer day. Private property driving and all that.

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As the first rays of sun hit Norway I noticed I could see through the gap in the grille. I decided to fix that by adding a Griffin radiator for the Axial Exo Terra in the gap in the front. Once painted it will not be noticeable. But it won't keep me awake at night either.

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Mounting the Survivor rear bumper poses a problem for the location of the spare on the back. (Rim will be replaced to match the rest.) I took the plastic mount off, as I've read about people having problems with them anyway, and with some styrene scraps I made a "backpack", allowing me to add some accessories and hang my sand ladders once completed. I don't really like the RC4WD sand ladders and think I will be swapping them for the Arches RC ones as soon as I can get my hands on them. I also made a ladder on the right side from some 6 mm styrene tubing. I'm having a blast building with styrene, and want to thank all those doing scratch builds or heavily modifying their rides for opening my eyes and all the inspiration. I feel like I entered a new chapter of the hobby.

The Arches RC badge will be fixed to the backpack once done, it's a nice little piece. The cooler still comes out, but out on the trail it will shove around a bit, without it falling out. The structure will be fixed to the back with three bolts, and one additional bolt for the spare, which will sit higher than in the original configuration.

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I thought the front looked rather heavy with all the bumpers, diamond plate and roofracking going on, so wanted to balance out the look of the truck a bit. I made an internal rollcage from some styrene, which will be fixed to the body instead of the interior, as I want it to be level with the outline of the rear windows at all times. Here is what I came up with.

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My scale adolescents are already geared up to crash the thing into a lamppost..

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Along with my order I also finally got the right glue to bond everything together, so the fenders got fixed permanently. I used Plastruct Bondene after getting a few tips about it.

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And the last part I made is a snorkel. As that looks very offroad-ish. I couldn't use a stock snorkel because A) I don't like them and B) they wouldn't fit with the Kahn fender extensions in place. So I needed a top mounted one, but I wanted it to be slick and sort of blend in with the body lines. It now sort of mimics the line in the fender where the vent is.

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And here are all parts disassembled while I will occupy myself with countless hours of putty, sanding, primer-paint-shooting and drinking coffee. Thanks for looking. :)

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