Think You Know It All? I Obviously Did NOT!!

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atom3624

atom3624

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Here's a good one, and a tad embarrassing to own up to!!

My FG MT has a Trevor Simpson 28.5 2-bolt reed valve masterpiece with 17000 bhp or something ..... you know what I mean. It's supposed to be the dog's nads, or onw of many ....

I've never REALLY been able to tune it properly since it's initial installation, and enjoy bashing with it so much, I've never REALLY bothered!

I've been onto Ian THE MASTER Oddie, trying to get new clutch shoes, and discussed the issue of 813 tuning and emptying primer bulb.
He mentioned clearly it's not just tune but indicative of overheating as well.

I found another carb in near-new condition, another 813, and after removing the filter, TGN pre-filter and Outerwears for cleaning and oiling, I was fittign the new replacement carb when I noticed ... erm ... something!!

1. I had had an alloy isolator on the previous engine - this obviously doesn't 'isolate' as the idea is to keep heat off, but comes with a teflon 'gasket' which never seals, so you have to fit a paper one in between ....
Neither this isolator nor the standard could be fitted to the reed case, as it's angled up too acutely and the filter wouldn't fit, so I've been doing without ...
Eureka!! Cause of the overheating ... possibly, but not the main cause...
2. I'd still used the same overlong screws that came with the alloy isolator, and must have fitted the filter as a unit, as I hadn't noticed ..... it didn't hold the carby tight!! Air must have been getting in!!

I've kept it without isolator as the reed cases have an inlet, 'though it will risk getting a little warm.
I've (obviously!!) used shorter bolts to align and tighten the carburettor on correctly, then have fitted the filter assembly.

I shall (hopefully) see if there's any change to the performance in the next few days.
I'm HOPING there's a big change, but we'll see.
It wasn't exactly slow!!
I'm amazed I hadn't had an accident. They were probably 5mm too long to hold tightly.

One of life's ... stupid things!!
Al.
 
Hey Atom, don't worry about it, I've gotten in my car in the morning and driven in the oposite direction of my job, it happens to the best of us, sometimes our minds wonder off to distant galaxies :lol:
 
Cheers mate!

Don't know about you, but the first thing I do when I mount something is try to 'wobble' it, which I must have done - it's a habit, so however it was mounted, it must have passed the 'wobble test'!

As mentioned, I did have one of those blingy 'alloy insulators' on the previous engine, which is obviously a contradiction in terms - the alloy will conduct the heat pretty damned well, and assist in volatilising the fuel, as Ian had mentioned.
These came with a teflon separator / insulator - which doesn't seal well, so I've re-installed this, with an extra paper gasket, so assist in isolating the heat transfer.

All is now ready to terrorise the neighbours, AGAIN!!

Al.
 
Before you blame the alloy manifold with a over heating problem lets see how it runs now after you fixed the air leaking problem

Most of the guys that race run a alloy manifold (isolator), the plastic ones can warpe after awhile and you would'nt want that to happen during a race

Troy
 
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OuttaLuck said:
Before you blame the alloy manifold with a over heating problem lets see how it runs now after you fixed the air leaking problem

Most of the guys that race run a alloy manifold (isolator), the plastic ones can warpe after awhile and you would'nt want that to happen duing a race

Troy
Click to expand...

I was thinking that Troy.
It's actually always performed 'quite well' and at least as fast as the fairly good G260RC that was in it.
I don't want to jump to conclusions too soon, and the proof of the pudding .....
I'm just wondering what it's going to be like now!!

I'm hoping that I AM going to see a reasonably substantial increase in performance once all is sorted!
Al.
 
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