this hobby is starting to wear thin!!

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chris18

Well-Known Member
Messages
231
Location
Surrey UK
guys

i love large scale and the whole tinker on the car thing.. but right i seem to be working on it more then running it

its seem right now i get to run the car around 20-30 minutes then something breaks or is worn out or comes loose ..then when get home i spend 1-3 hours trying to fix it

well its just the hobby we in as said i love it but needed to have moan !!! as it was a nice day today and only got 1/4 tank before the pinion came loose on the layshaft GRRRR...

Chris the moaning old git :)
 
Dear Moaning ol' Git !!!!

Patience is a great healer.
You learn from your mistakes. ....

These are 2 very relevant phrases to this hobby.

You will have read about or used threadlock in the past.
This is what people use.

BE VERY CAREFUL on your selection of which threadlock.
BLUE, is firm, but can be manually loosened.
RED, is hard, and may need 'persuasion', such as a few taps with a hammer, or heat.
GREEN, is permanent and just about bloody impossible to budge - DON'T USE IT unless it's a screw you really have no intention removing ...
I was told last time this came up on this Forum that there are more, even 'more permanent' than the GREEN!!

Al.
 
Dear Moaning ol' Git !!!!

Patience is a great healer.
You learn from your mistakes. ....

These are 2 very relevant phrases to this hobby.

You will have read about or used threadlock in the past.
This is what people use.

BE VERY CAREFUL on your selection of which threadlock.
BLUE, is firm, but can be manually loosened.
RED, is hard, and may need 'persuasion', such as a few taps with a hammer, or heat.
GREEN, is permanent and just about bloody impossible to budge - DON'T USE IT unless it's a screw you really have no intention removing ...
I was told last time this came up on this Forum that there are more, even 'more permanent' than the GREEN!!

Al.


Hey Al

yes i do own some blue few years old i'm sure it should still work

how does grease, grime and petrol effect lock tight ?
 
the hobby can wear you down it did with me i had 12 months of things breaking and motors going pop ,so i,ve had 6 month rest from the hobby before it drove me insane lol, my baja has sat under a pool table in my sons bedroom and at one point i allmost sold it but so glad i never .
 
the hobby can wear you down it did with me i had 12 months of things breaking and motors going pop ,so i,ve had 6 month rest from the hobby before it drove me insane lol, my baja has sat under a pool table in my sons bedroom and at one point i allmost sold it but so glad i never .

i really do know understand where you are coming from i don't think i have had a full tank yet from mine if it not engine blowing its bits breaking or snapping and thats' not even from crashes just normal use

its all fixed now and going for another run tomorrow afternoon fingers crossed LOL

i seem to get more use out of my Tamiya lunchbox and thats at home in the garden LOL
 
Hey Al

yes i do own some blue few years old i'm sure it should still work

how does grease, grime and petrol effect lock tight ?

Hi Chris,
If you're applying threadlock to an item which is covered in grease, it won't work.
If you're talking about using threadlock, and then, after it's set (allow overnight to 'cure' at least) some grease covers it, there should be no problem.

Al.
 
chris i saw part of your build in you fitting front disc's

if i was you i would change your brand of chewing gum :lol::lol:

maybe then it will hold together longer:D

K....
 
what make of 5th scale are you running by the way?

started as this

IMAG0094-1.gif

and now its stand like this

IMAG0403.gif


its a Shengqi Hummer but the only parts that's a shengqi is the chassis and rear shock tower and roll cage now LOL everything else is FG
 
I know I go on about racing but..... If you take last weekend as an example.
I went up to Scotland for round 3 of the championship 250 miles each way towing a caravan - you may think thats not important but the next bit is. Before Every meeting I'll strip and clean my car to check everything is ok - Why? If a car is well maintained and well set up, it will do what you might expect it to do rather than break every five minutes.
This weekend I used about 5 ltrs or fuel and never had a single breakage - I had a wheel nut come loose but that was my fault for not loctiting it. I has to clean out the pull start once, I changed the tyres a few times to suit the surface and the shock oils as required but I know that 99% of the time I put my car on the track it will finish the run. For me, the prep is as important as driving well because you can't have one without the other.

I wouldn't go all that way if I thought my car wasn't in good shape.
 
it looks nice ,better than the hummer, my baja started life as a shengqi and i had a lot of trouble with stuff breaking think only the front tyres our from my original shengqi now tho, just try to work thru the problems and were it keeps breaking try to upgrade to stronger parts ,you,ll get there in the end my brother has a 2 speed 29cc marder and its a nightmare for going wrong .
 
I know I go on about racing but..... If you take last weekend as an example.
I went up to Scotland for round 3 of the championship 250 miles each way towing a caravan - you may think thats not important but the next bit is. Before Every meeting I'll strip and clean my car to check everything is ok - Why? If a car is well maintained and well set up, it will do what you might expect it to do rather than break every five minutes.
This weekend I used about 5 ltrs or fuel and never had a single breakage - I had a wheel nut come loose but that was my fault for not loctiting it. I has to clean out the pull start once, I changed the tyres a few times to suit the surface and the shock oils as required but I know that 99% of the time I put my car on the track it will finish the run. For me, the prep is as important as driving well because you can't have one without the other.

I wouldn't go all that way if I thought my car wasn't in good shape.


Agreed but that the thing when i bought the car i stripped down to chassis cleaned and refitted the parts i needed or had ordered to replace to make it what it is now and jot cheap bits too but it still has its faults please don't get me wrong i'm no racer but i'm not new to this game been doing since a teenager had few years break so there are few thing i needed to update myself with but i pretty good with my mechanics being in the motor trade for best part of my working carrera
 
+1 Mike, I'm a stickler for pre run maintnace, I check every screw and component before and after I run or race, I know my friends call me obsesive, but while I'm running or racing, they are in the pits or at the table wrenching, so it pays off, be good to your car and it will be good to you :D
 
BTW, before I use loctite, I clean metal components with degreaser, followed by alchohol (some for the car,some for me!) then asemble them, yeah I know, I'm obsesive as all hell. :w00t:
 
All cars break, it's a fact of life. For racing my car is very strong, I would even think of bashing like you see some people do - dough nuts and full trottle across a field it tame compaired with some I've seen.

You have a plastic car, maybe it's time to upgrade a little - sensible parts.
 
on another note....

things like grubs screws should be replaced often...if it comes loose of its own doing then bin it and fit a new one..I use grub screws with radial ridges round the flattened point...( don't know how else to describe it)
they take a better bite and with loctite they seem to stay put..
yet all the original ones never had this at all

left grub screw new type..right grub screw ...only fit for the bin..

It small things like this that drives us mad.
but stick with it as when you do get tank after tank of running its all worth it...
I need to drive a bit slower (less crashes)then I might get to drive mine more too
IMAG0949.jpg
 
There are guys who race on road and at the end of each season they sell the car and buy a new one for the next.Even though the car may cost them as much as $3000 each time.Little to no break downs.
 
wezg the words you where looking for the description of the grub screw
knurled cup

these are good on unhardened steel alloy etc ...but not on hardened steels
where then you would use flat point (more surface area)

K....
 
on another note....

things like grubs screws should be replaced often...if it comes loose of its own doing then bin it and fit a new one..I use grub screws with radial ridges round the flattened point...( don't know how else to describe it)
they take a better bite and with loctite they seem to stay put..
yet all the original ones never had this at all

left grub screw new type..right grub screw ...only fit for the bin..

It small things like this that drives us mad.
but stick with it as when you do get tank after tank of running its all worth it...
I need to drive a bit slower (less crashes)then I might get to drive mine more too
IMAG0949.jpg

whats is the common sizes on a large scale for grub screws ?
 
wezg the words you where looking for the description of the grub screw
knurled cup

these are good on unhardened steel alloy etc ...but not on hardened steels
where then you would use flat point (more surface area)

K....

thats then ones.....I have had no problems since installing them....even on the hardened layshaft....

watch this space...next time i go out I bet a grub screw comes loose to prove me wrong...lol

those ones are M5 x6mm long....used all over on the FG..wheel squares and gears
 
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