Titanium diff pins

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AlphaDog7771

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cant we just by some titanium rod and use it with the original diff cups? ... I googled it, it's out there, probably not cheap, but it's out there.. :confused:
 
yea I'll call this place I found and what the cost is... seems like the easiest way to fix this problem..... "seems" LOL


What is the size of the rod? Anyone got calipers handy?
 
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yea but I found a place that makes titanium "wire" I used to use steel "wire" when I did hvac it was about the size we need... But I want the titanium ... and they keep it in stock.... up to grade 7 I just need to know the size so I can call
 
Titanium isn't stronger than hardened steel in this particular application. Have you used the hardened steel dowel pins for the original diffs?
 
RampageHopUps said:
Titanium isn't stronger than hardened steel in this particular application. Have you used the hardened steel dowel pins for the original diffs?
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Are the free upgraded dowel pins for the original diffs holding up OK? I threw them in my order on Monday.
 
ahh i c... well that foils my plans:eek:...lol


i haven't even ran my car to be honest, im waiting on parts... im just a thinker ;) ...trying to help solve the problem....


ok well someone needs to get online with the x-men and find out where they got adimantium, lmao


NERD JOKE! :D
 
RampageHopUps said:
Titanium isn't stronger than hardened steel in this particular application. Have you used the hardened steel dowel pins for the original diffs?
Click to expand...
I haven't yet. You think the stanard hardened pins would last? I know the extra meat on the cup for the standard size pins would help a lot.
 
i have not broke a stock diff cup with robs hardened pins


i only broke an upgrade i said this sometime ago but someone saib they break gears ill let everyone know when mine breaks im still running it in my first truck
 
These diff threads are like beating a dead horse! LMAO Here is an idea that I have that "MAY" work. For quite a while now on our performance cars and 4x4's alike we have been Cryo treating parts and getting what seems to be about a 20% improvement in strength. It is a relatively inexepensive proccess to boot. Sprint what are your thoughts on this? We all know that Cryo Treating anything aligns the particles in it's mass even more correctly than heat treating, so do you think this would help? My suggestion then would be to use the "UPGRADE" diff cups and cryo treat them so that the strength of the pin is there, and also in the cup.
 
Its already been proven that you cannot fix a bad product......we need to redesign the diff and use high quality parts...... :eek: There is no point flogging a dead horse... :p
 
The "bad" product can most likely be fixed by re-heat treating to a lower number. Even 4 points on the Rockwell scale will make a huge difference.
 
In that case .....how do we do that? It seems as you have the know how. I don't have a clue how to fix it, we could all use this information so we can run our trucks. I am Very frusterated because every time i use it i break a diff, stock motor with xcan. So plase share your fix with us. I have a tt & mt both awaiting diffs............HELP:(
 
I'm doing some experimenting, I just tempered 2 upgraded shafts to grey so about 900F with my plumbers torch,


polished steel changes colour with temp when you stick heat to it, check this link for approx temp rangeshttp://www.anvilfire.com/index.php?bodyName=/FAQs/temper_colors.htm&titleName=Temper%20Colors%20:%20anvilfire.com


so now I've tempered at grey I'll run to see if it's made the shafts too soft. the higher the temp the more hardness you lose, between 500F and 700F you will get brittleness so stay away from those.


If that doesn't work I'll be able to see what's changed and go from there.


I'm 100% certain that the factory will fix this problem with a simple change of either material, specific hardness, tempering or a combination of those.


If that doesn't work then either splines or a square or hex drive into the gear
 
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