Well...stuff is scattered all over the place, and I think it's wearing me out. My search function is b0rk3d I used it so much...
Looking for an on-road upgrade primer, suggestions for upgrades from a basic Ecoline or Sportline 04 FG to the next step, and the next after that, and then after that. Etc. etc. and so forth.
I found a website that addressed an upgrade path -- sort of -- for what seems to be either Sportline F1 or Touring class cars, but it is very limited in scope. So I thought I'd pose the question to those of you who started with an Ecoline or Sportline 04 touring car and upgraded it. I'd like to see what upgrade paths some of you chose, and why. To get started, I've posted what seem to be the first few upgrades everyone seems to agree on for their 1/5 touring:
1). Plastic gearing is apparently a problem spot on any 1/5 scale car or truck. Unanimous opinions state the pinion and spur gears are the first upgrades to steel, to avoid issues with melting/stripped plastic gearing.
2). 1/4 scale steering servo. There are a handful (reportedly) of 1/5 and 1/8 scale servos that have enough torque and are built with enough resilience to properly handle largescale cars and trucks. This upgrade is also one of the first to be implemented by many enthusiasts.
3). Tuned pipe. It is unclear to me, what pipes come with the FG-installed Zenoahs -- reports say it is a mildly-tuned pipe, others report it is a can with a hole in it. Either way, I see plenty of urgency with many owners who look to increase the power of their otherwise stock systems; bang-for-buck, the exhaust pipe is the quickest route to more power. The list of suitable pipes is fairly long, as I attribute this to being a popular upgrade path. The decisive pipe 'kings' as it were, would seem to be Samba and perhaps Mielke. Other pipes may be just as good.
4). Engine mounts. A number of basic/entry-level on-roads and off-roads come with plastic mounts for the engine. Specifically, plastic is used to isolate the chassis from the vibration of the engine, and avoid the higher costs associated with milled steel or aluminum. However, these mounts are known to break and give under use, and it is recommended that these be replaced with aluminum or steel counterparts to avoid flexing, melting and breakage due to heat and stress. (Thanks, Timmah)
5). Alloy upper rear control arms. Apparently there is an inordinate amount of flex in the rear control arms which results in off-camber/caster wear on tires and tracking problems due to the flex allowing the wheel assembly to deviate from the suspension travel path. This is true for most all FG vehicles (i.e. Sportline/Ecoline, Marder, Monster Truck, Baja, etc.), and likely true for all 1/5 scale cars and trucks.
6). Ball drives (not to be confused with 'CVDs' or 'CV Axles'). Recently, (or, within the last year or possibly two), FG has been shipping all their new cars and trucks with ball drive assemblies versus dogbones. The ball drives are built exactly like the full size counterparts found in most independently suspended chassis configurations. The ball drives offer less play, extended life span delivery of power to the wheels, and is considered a priority upgrade for the drivetrain. Recommended for all on- and off-road applications.
7). Front disc brakes (cable). FG, and perhaps a few other manufacturers, offer basic cable disc brake upgrades for base-model 1/5. Apparently this upgrade is so important, that perhaps it should instead be number two or three on this list. I've driven a few FG with the stock brake assembly (single disc mounted midships between motor and differential) versus basic front disc brakes and even hydraulic brake systems. I could tell virtually no difference in braking between cable and hydraulic disc brakes. However, there is a night-and-day difference between the stock brake and the basic front disc upgrade. Highly recommended.
8). Alloy or carbon fiber shock stays can help improve rigidity and the overall response of your machine. Some interchange this upgrade with alloy control arms, but certainly a stiffer mount for your car or truck will definitely help improve handling characteristics.
A word on rigidity: There are a few notes to mention regarding upgrades that improve the rigidity of the chassis and suspension components. While the bling factor can't be argued, there are considerations to alloy that have to be considered. First and foremost, alloy is heavier than plastic, and if you weigh, for example, an FG Sportline 04 next to an Evo 04, you'll discover just how much heavier. While weight in-and-of itself does not hamper top speed, it certainly affects handling characteristics in corners and general agility on the track. On the flipside, a stiffer, rigid chassis made of mostly aluminum components is going to be more predictable on a smooth course, which will provide a setup advantage compared to a Sportline or similar base-model machine. Taking the guesswork out of chassis setup is half the battle, and with the amount of flex in the rubberized plastic components of the base models, this can mean an almost neverending chain of unpredictable behavior that cannot be dialed out with simple coil spring swaps and changes in oil viscosity. The flex is the primary source of these problems, and alloy components can help an experienced hobbyist dial in their chassis for precise, deliberate behavior.
Anyway, this is just a start. I am by no means an expert on this particular scale, so feel free to pipe in and tell me how you upgraded and why. Also, I was going to put this in the touring car topic, but most -- if not all -- of these upgrade paths can also no doubt apply to Marders, Monster Trucks and Stadium Trucks.
Looking for an on-road upgrade primer, suggestions for upgrades from a basic Ecoline or Sportline 04 FG to the next step, and the next after that, and then after that. Etc. etc. and so forth.
I found a website that addressed an upgrade path -- sort of -- for what seems to be either Sportline F1 or Touring class cars, but it is very limited in scope. So I thought I'd pose the question to those of you who started with an Ecoline or Sportline 04 touring car and upgraded it. I'd like to see what upgrade paths some of you chose, and why. To get started, I've posted what seem to be the first few upgrades everyone seems to agree on for their 1/5 touring:
1). Plastic gearing is apparently a problem spot on any 1/5 scale car or truck. Unanimous opinions state the pinion and spur gears are the first upgrades to steel, to avoid issues with melting/stripped plastic gearing.
2). 1/4 scale steering servo. There are a handful (reportedly) of 1/5 and 1/8 scale servos that have enough torque and are built with enough resilience to properly handle largescale cars and trucks. This upgrade is also one of the first to be implemented by many enthusiasts.
3). Tuned pipe. It is unclear to me, what pipes come with the FG-installed Zenoahs -- reports say it is a mildly-tuned pipe, others report it is a can with a hole in it. Either way, I see plenty of urgency with many owners who look to increase the power of their otherwise stock systems; bang-for-buck, the exhaust pipe is the quickest route to more power. The list of suitable pipes is fairly long, as I attribute this to being a popular upgrade path. The decisive pipe 'kings' as it were, would seem to be Samba and perhaps Mielke. Other pipes may be just as good.
4). Engine mounts. A number of basic/entry-level on-roads and off-roads come with plastic mounts for the engine. Specifically, plastic is used to isolate the chassis from the vibration of the engine, and avoid the higher costs associated with milled steel or aluminum. However, these mounts are known to break and give under use, and it is recommended that these be replaced with aluminum or steel counterparts to avoid flexing, melting and breakage due to heat and stress. (Thanks, Timmah)
5). Alloy upper rear control arms. Apparently there is an inordinate amount of flex in the rear control arms which results in off-camber/caster wear on tires and tracking problems due to the flex allowing the wheel assembly to deviate from the suspension travel path. This is true for most all FG vehicles (i.e. Sportline/Ecoline, Marder, Monster Truck, Baja, etc.), and likely true for all 1/5 scale cars and trucks.
6). Ball drives (not to be confused with 'CVDs' or 'CV Axles'). Recently, (or, within the last year or possibly two), FG has been shipping all their new cars and trucks with ball drive assemblies versus dogbones. The ball drives are built exactly like the full size counterparts found in most independently suspended chassis configurations. The ball drives offer less play, extended life span delivery of power to the wheels, and is considered a priority upgrade for the drivetrain. Recommended for all on- and off-road applications.
7). Front disc brakes (cable). FG, and perhaps a few other manufacturers, offer basic cable disc brake upgrades for base-model 1/5. Apparently this upgrade is so important, that perhaps it should instead be number two or three on this list. I've driven a few FG with the stock brake assembly (single disc mounted midships between motor and differential) versus basic front disc brakes and even hydraulic brake systems. I could tell virtually no difference in braking between cable and hydraulic disc brakes. However, there is a night-and-day difference between the stock brake and the basic front disc upgrade. Highly recommended.
8). Alloy or carbon fiber shock stays can help improve rigidity and the overall response of your machine. Some interchange this upgrade with alloy control arms, but certainly a stiffer mount for your car or truck will definitely help improve handling characteristics.
A word on rigidity: There are a few notes to mention regarding upgrades that improve the rigidity of the chassis and suspension components. While the bling factor can't be argued, there are considerations to alloy that have to be considered. First and foremost, alloy is heavier than plastic, and if you weigh, for example, an FG Sportline 04 next to an Evo 04, you'll discover just how much heavier. While weight in-and-of itself does not hamper top speed, it certainly affects handling characteristics in corners and general agility on the track. On the flipside, a stiffer, rigid chassis made of mostly aluminum components is going to be more predictable on a smooth course, which will provide a setup advantage compared to a Sportline or similar base-model machine. Taking the guesswork out of chassis setup is half the battle, and with the amount of flex in the rubberized plastic components of the base models, this can mean an almost neverending chain of unpredictable behavior that cannot be dialed out with simple coil spring swaps and changes in oil viscosity. The flex is the primary source of these problems, and alloy components can help an experienced hobbyist dial in their chassis for precise, deliberate behavior.
Anyway, this is just a start. I am by no means an expert on this particular scale, so feel free to pipe in and tell me how you upgraded and why. Also, I was going to put this in the touring car topic, but most -- if not all -- of these upgrade paths can also no doubt apply to Marders, Monster Trucks and Stadium Trucks.
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