Upgrades 4 dummies

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phreerider said:
clutch shoe mass may vary from maker to maker a fraction and may produce some differences . detectable difference ? doubtful. detrimental difference? nope. i have used springs/shoes from varying sources and lots of combos ,never a problem. and the most predictable have been the DDM lifetime stuff...its made specifically separate to be used with just about all 54mm 2 shoe centrif. clutches

the finger choke...(prime bulb) filter off for clear access to carb throat opening, place index finger of Lt. hand in opening while stabilizing unit with hand, with Rt. hand pull starter. most of the time one snappy pull and it pops. second snappy pull (if it needs it) its running. remove finger immediately as it fires.

OR...finger choke one full slow pull , then snap pull 1-3 times w/o finger will do it as well.

ita all about getting fuel in the case. if it has not started , and you smell fuel STOP! remove plug if its wet , take a break, return in 5-10minutes , check for spark. if +...start over. replace plug 1-2 pulls may pop right off, if not, do ur routine. not alot of pulls just consistent in action.

choose one stick with it
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Great stuff, thanks a lot :) So far, my list of scheduled upgrades looks like this:

  • Kill switch
  • Baja air filter
  • Outerwear pre-filter
  • Tank vent kit
  • 8k rpm clutch
  • WT 990 without sealed bearings
  • Intake manifold (is this ok?)
  • Jetpro rear mount
  • ===================
  • ===== rebuild funds ===== :D
  • ===================
  • Baja wheel adapters
  • Baja onroad wheels Tarmac Busters
  • DemonRC 2-speed gearbox
Did I miss any major component? I don't intend to upgrade the servos unless they fail.

Phill said:
I too prefer the 6k clutchThe higher rpm clutches not only cause wheelspin but by hitting the drivrtrain with higher rpm from a standing start you are subjecting it to greater force and thereore making it more subject to breakage

A 6k clutch is also MUCH more driveable out of corners
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Given that it's not a terribly expensive part, I think I'm gonna get the 8k rpm clutch and see whether I like it not. If I don't, I'll just revert to the stock clutch. Or maybe even use them both, 6k for offroad, 8k for onroad.
 
radio and servos if you don 't already have them and top end kit,

i would add these items before a 2 speed tranny if you are gonna build beyond just a solid unit, power first then add gears.
 
oh yeah i see servos comment.... if you order NOW should arrive just in time then.

the stock will work but upgraded electronics will keep those issues controlled and the fun rolling
 
Just so you know just changing the spring may be a very hard task sometimes is better to buy the whole cluch with the spring already installed
 
Upgrades 4 dummies

phreerider said:
radio and servos if you don 't already have them and top end kit,.
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What's wrong with the stock radio system?

Sergio said:
Just so you know just changing the spring may be a very hard task sometimes is better to buy the whole cluch with the spring already installed
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Yes, I figured that, I'm gonna buy the entire clutch.
 
Reliability , marginal quality and vibration will eventually blunt Rx function. The chance of an issue will present itself <20hours. An entry level futaba tx/Rx will zero the issue. These units have considerable vibration . I have the original and still works but the glitches can present sketchy situations so I dropped it.

The clutches can be bit of a puzzle . Glad to help u through any step with video / pics
 
Got it, thanks. Since I'm already going to spend a considerable mount of money at once (I'm at about $1000 already), I'll stick with the stock radio and upgrade it when it develops issues.By the way, I was looking at the JetPro rear mount, am I missing something or are there chassis modifications required to fit it?!

dunerunner_jetpro.webp

dunerunner_jetpro.webp

/monthly_2015_01/dunerunner_jetpro.jpg.5861ba73e5e94130bcf40d0643c046e3.jpg
 
That one takes some mods, but most do. There's a "Thor" pipe that goes thru the back inside around the tower that has fewest mods . The dominator is a 2 PC. that will fit but mods are necessary . Most are baja 5b pipes modded to fit mostly brackets and a little trimming
 
so for the jetpro rear mount (which I understand is the best) I need to cut those bars at the back and then fabricate something to go around it? Is there an easier way?
 
Problem solved, I got a reply from Dino @ jetpro:

No mods of any kind, I don't ever engineer pipes that you need to hack the car and every pipe comes with what you need to mount right on the car, the dune runner pipe actually comes with a steel cage that ties the steel mounting plate to the roll cage on the car, so you remove the plastic down tubes that come with the car and replace it with the steel one we supply, it actually makes the roll cage stronger.

Yey :D
 
cool, definitely have better options now, pipe with the mount man thats deluxe. market pressure! it is the wedge of change . gonna sound awesome ! ear cracking!
 
A silencer would also have a performance benefit? I thought it just turns the noise down a bit.
 
Yes that what I use to think also but dino had me run the pipe first with no silencer and tune then he told me to add the silencer and tune and you will notice more top end. Dino was the first person to tell me this so that's why he had me try it.
 
Sergio said:
Just so you know just changing the spring may be a very hard task sometimes is better to buy the whole cluch with the spring already installed
Click to expand...
FYI:

 
Will this kit be ok to fit the Baja wheels to the DR? Is there a difference if I'm planning on using rears all around? I'm asking because I saw someone mention "rear axle wheel adapters" so that got me thinking, are the adapters different for front/rear?
 
Those are 4 rear adapters for the Baja. So that is what you need. DDM just packed them together so you don;t have to search around for the right part number.
 
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