Weird starting problems??

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Your idle is diffidently to high turn you idle down some to stop the high revs. Did you check for n air leak? I have noticed when you first fired it up it revved really high then went lower in revs but was still high on the revs just for idle.
 
I checked for leaks using the wd40 method. And it's weird. The last couple of times I tried it, it actually started with low revs in the beginning before settling to normal.... Its like it's bogging or something... Hmm this things got me stumped!
 
6) CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT
The carburetor comes with a standard setting, it is for
optimum performance under the barometric pressure and
climatic conditions at factory, so it may be re-adjusted
according to load applied.
Idle rpm : 4000 ± 300 rpm (STD Spring)
H needle : 1 1/8 ± 1/4
L needle : 1 1/4 ± 1/4

trey these settings and work from that
 
It's just weird how it's problem after problem especially when it was running fine last week.

The motor sounded just fine two days ago after I got her to start. Now she stutters and stalls almost everytime I use the brakes and when I put her on the ground.

It's like the clutches are grabbing even on idle and when I put a load on it the engine stutters and stalls...
 
I installed a brand new hpi high response 8000 clutch kit in her yesterday and that last 2 video was take after the install...

Anyone know why the clutch is grabbing even in idle? Isn't it supposed to grab at 8000 rpm?
 
I believe I've figured out what the problem is. Or atleast have a good theory on what is causing it anyway...

So I took the clutch apart again a couple of hours ago and while comparing the hpi high response 8000 rpm clutch kit to the king motor 8000 clutch kit, I noticed a difference between the two.

The holes where the step screw would go into where two different sizes!
The genuine hpi had a bit bigger hole compared to the king motor one thus making the step screw loose on the hpi clutch shoe.

Now when tightened, instead of being snug it creates a bit of play... An when I inspected the hpi clutch (when installed), it didn't close all the way. (as if the springs were too long) but I know for a fact that it's not the spring since that thing is tight as hell. What happens is since the step screw weren't snug in the hole, it created friction and play where the spring would have a hard time closing the shoes.

This then would grab the clutch bell even on idle.

Hmmm.... Atleast that's what I think...

Anyways I'll probably test this theory out later in the afternoon and get the right step screws. (hpi 15456)
 
chitown joe said:
i believe the hpi is 8mm and km is 9mm bolts, that will cause a problem
Click to expand...

THIS. This was what was causing my clutch problems...I have sorted it out tho and she runs fine now :)


[ame]http://youtu.be/EHB8rD3Rc5Q[/ame]

And here she is running with a super 5sc from a guy I met when I was tuning that same day.

[ame]http://youtu.be/JhuaQ47oihs[/ame]
 
Glad you got it sorted out.
I've read about that one before and was going to mention the 8mm/9mm thing.
Another, particularly as you've been 'ragging' the beast is the possible de-lamination of the shoes - some have come unstuck with the heat generated.

Al.
 
atom3624 said:
Glad you got it sorted out.
I've read about that one before and was going to mention the 8mm/9mm thing.
Another, particularly as you've been 'ragging' the beast is the possible de-lamination of the shoes - some have come unstuck with the heat generated.

Al.
Click to expand...

ThAnks :) what do you mean by "ragging" though?
 
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