wet plug...no start...S.O.B.

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Brent1972Indy

Brent1972Indy

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I have run 1 and a half tanks thru my new 23cc shengqi clone at 25:1. It has been running rich I think because it dies at idle and the exhaust shoots out black sludge. I know this because my tube came off the exhaust and now it just blows right on the inside driver door.

I decided to change to 32:1 100% synthetic and adjust my needles to H-1.5 and L-1.25. After doing both of these I went to start and nothing. Flooded. I pulled the plug and it was black and wet. I left it hooked up to plug wire and layed near cylinder to check for spark when I pull the rope. It has spark. I left the plug out for awhile to let flooding air out and retried the process and still same thing, it floods/wet plug.

Will a fouled plug still spark?

When adjusting needles counterclock from the closed position, I assume 1 turn means turning the screw driver 360 degrees, correct?

Keep in mind I was running super rich all this time but wanted to wait a couple tanks before making adjustments and changing to 32:1 synthetic.

This is horrible timing because my DDM torque is due anytime now. I cannot be broke down this weekend.............PLEASE HELP
 
pop a new plug in the beast you should be able to go to any autoparts champion plug RZ7C....also check your idle screw.. if you don't idle you wont start screw it in a turn or 2

needles screw all the way in out 1 1/2 H 1 1/4L

I run coleman with 4 oz 2 cycle per gallon 33:1 no problems at all
 
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If it is really flooded. Turn the vehicle up side down with the spark plug out & pull several times. You should see the flood clear with gas coming out the plug hole. When attempting to start after this. Put the vehicle up on something to keep the tires from touching the ground. Hold the throttle a small amount open when pulling to start. It should fire up & smoke a bit as it burns of the excess fuel in the crankcase. Then adjust to the settings described already. If it's flooded bad, it can be a bit difficult to re-start. If you assume it is flooded bad. Turn the low speed needle all the way in when starting after clearing the flood. It will then start for a few seconds & burn the biggest part of the flood gas out of the engine before it dies. Then adjust the needle correctly & you should be good. Get it going for weekend !! Don't want to miss that fun !
 
It was flooded but I was still trying to use the choke, which made it worse. My plug was fouled too. I love the torque pipe but I have bogging issues and I'm trying to figure that out. It is ok on mid and high but taking off sucks. Also I have broke the center out of 2 wheels with the increased torque I think. These wheels suck. I want alloy but can't pay that much.
 
he was trying to start it with the choke peremantely in the choke position...alot of new people to the hobby/engines do that, they don't realize it cause you cant see the butterfly.

Remember pushing choke lever down is choking.....lifting up the choke to start and run
 
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I knew how the choke worked but it flooded from the get go. Then after turning it over and draining it with plug out and waiting etc. I continued trying thinking the choke was closed but didn't notice due to new torque pipe in the way. All good now just bogs from start. And I have ruined 3 out of 4 wheels by spinning the square out and or breaking the whole middle out.
 
they have a cure for that too,wheel reinforcements..alot less than alloy rims:)

Check with any 1/5 dealer that handles Elcon parts


EDIT..........wwwwooooppps you have a clone Baja...sorry...

Someone should make some for the bajas (hint hint Ramtech)
 

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hellya said:
they have a cure for that too,wheel reinforcements..alot less than alloy rims:)

Check with any 1/5 dealer that handles Elcon parts


EDIT..........wwwwooooppps you have a clone Baja...sorry...

Someone should make some for the bajas (hint hint Ramtech)
Click to expand...


I have a clone fg mt/fh mt. Will these work?
 
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