A regular ole port like you would find for an extra $35 from DDM is what I call a "garage" port in that anybody can do it. There are really 4 steps to a simple base port job on these engines:
1) Matching the cylinder and case is the first thing I would do on a 2 bolt. When you move to a 4 bolt you will notice everything is almost lined up for you and you don't have to do anything. I have a billet Dark Soul 4 bolt case and it's already perfectly machined so you don't have to touch it.
2) Resurface the transfer and instake port: You would go in with a 1/8" and 1/4" inch cutting bit and resurface all 4 of the transfer ports. Then, do the same for the intake port. I use rounded cylindrical bits when doing this and also some ball cutting bits. The surface should be roughened after you finished. The reason for a rough finish is that it creates turbulance as fuel/air passes over it which atomizes the fuel better before reaching the combustion chamber.
3) Polish the exhaust port: This just lets burnt gases escape faster by reducing friction loss as gases pass over the rough surface at high velocities. This translates into increased CFM's.
4) Eyebrow the intake port: This can be tricky and I wouldn't suggest doing it without practice. If you don't know how the shape is supposed to be then you might need to save this till later when you see a head with it actually done. The eyebrows are basically two cuts above the intake port that extend from the top of the transfer port toward the middle of the intake port. This directs the fresh intake charge toward the intake port which helps push out the burnt exhaust gases. It's called "scavenging".
Now, there are a ton of other things that professionals like ESP and Oneill's do to get more power out of their engine which I won't get into cause it's a science and alot of formulas (intake & exhaust timing, etc) are involved.