What fg is this?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
C

CALIC

Well-Known Member
Messages
146
Reaction score
0
Location
Slough, UK
Just got this of ebay but not sure wat it is? its my first time experience with fg on road... and if i wanted 2 add a pipe and a bore kit wat will u recommend? it cost me 250 pounds dou think its worth it with all radio's?

Thanks for your help!
 

Attachments

  • 65ef_1.webp
    65ef_1.webp
    20.3 KB · Views: 96
  • !BM2hiww!2k~$(KGrHgoH-DEEjlLl1RtcBJmqImlRBw~~_1.webp
    !BM2hiww!2k~$(KGrHgoH-DEEjlLl1RtcBJmqImlRBw~~_1.webp
    19.8 KB · Views: 70
Calic,

It appears to be the FG Sportline (can be short or long), it should perform quite well. If the engine still runs it is a good deal.
http://www.bigboystoysandhobbies.com/inc/sdetail/10100

I normally recommend the following upgrade kit. It is well priced and gives you around 3.5 HP which should be enough muscle for you FG car. This kit should be available from many websites in UK.
http://www.rampagehopups.com/product.sc?categoryId=5&productId=297

For pipe get the stock tuned pipe, any DDM or Mielke pipe. Of course, if you have the bucks get a Samba.
http://www.innovativehobby.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1458

Have fun,
DRT.
 
oh ya, sportsline. its a good model. i would sugjest a ported 23 or 25.4. the larger displacement motor lose a little rpm. and the last thing you need in that rig is more torque. you will have a fun time keeping it straight now. the fg tuned pipes are ok too. you can get better like a sambo, but for the price you cant beatr it. i dint see front brakes? you will most surly need those. the stock rear brakes will send you in tail spins even if you set your abs. with front cable breakes you will stop fairly well.
that shell is off the fs on-roads. its goto be a long chassis
 
I agree, the larger bore will hurt you high rpms, stick with a 23 for on road and go with a larger bore for off road.. I noticed a big difference in top end going from a 26 to a 28.5 in my FG M/t and I don't like it. I would imagine it would be a huge difference in your car!

The choice is yours though,

Trip..
 
kryptonite5b said:
oh ya, sportsline. its a good model. i would sugjest a ported 23 or 25.4. the larger displacement motor lose a little rpm. and the last thing you need in that rig is more torque. you will have a fun time keeping it straight now. the fg tuned pipes are ok too. you can get better like a sambo, but for the price you cant beatr it. i dint see front brakes? you will most surly need those. the stock rear brakes will send you in tail spins even if you set your abs. with front cable breakes you will stop fairly well.
that shell is off the fs on-roads. its goto be a long chassis
Click to expand...

Hey Jason, don't mean to get off topic but we're making a trip to 301 on March 28th for a test and tune. So far there's about 20+ racers going. You in?

Brian
 
Trip said:
I agree, the larger bore will hurt you high rpms, stick with a 23 for on road and go with a larger bore for off road.. I noticed a big difference in top end going from a 26 to a 28.5 in my FG M/t and I don't like it. I would imagine it would be a huge difference in your car!

The choice is yours though,

Trip..
Click to expand...


Why is the bigger bore decreasing the RPM? I figured that only a longer crank would lower the RPM and not the bigger bore? Please explain :)
 
The weight of the larger diameter piston... The more the weight, the slower she'll rev. I agree with what you are thinking, I did too. In a 4 stroke car engine, a short stroke and a larger bore equals higher rpm's, but in these motors it is almost opposite. I am thinking it has something to do with the low torque output of the smaller displacement 2 strokes. Or maybe something to do with port volume and timing? I don't know. If these motors had a camshaft I could tell you all about it. I am by no means an expert with a 2 stroke...

As was mentioned before, the last thing an on road car needs is more torque. It will barely be able to keep the back tires hooked as it is. I would think in an onroad application, a smaller bore and higher revs would be about right. Maybe a nice race ported? Usually they are designed to apply the power in a smooth linear fashion, instead of slamming all the power it can out of the hole, such as a 29 or 30.5cc.

The big bore kits were made originally for scooters, with little rich kids on the back of them and we just adapted them for r/c use. So, they were designed to move large amounts of weight, not a 25 pound car with decent gearing.

Trip..
 
Ok....thanks Trip for the answer. So both bigger bores and longer cranks decrease the RPM in your 2 stroke engine but if you compare longer crank to a bigger bore, which one affects the RPM the most? For example, if you upgrade your 26 cc original to a 36 mm bore = 28,5 cc or just adds a longer crank + 2 mm = 27,2 cc. Which of these modifications would decrease the RPM of the engine the most?
 
I wish I could answer that for you... Unfortunately I cannot. Timmahh would be a lot more qualified to answer this...

One thing I do know is though, Stay away from the CY 36mm head kit (big bore) I have heard of plating issues...

I would imagine the stroker crank used in the 27.2 kit would be a higher revving motor, the only reason I am saying this is because Oniels and ESP port these motors and I hear a lot of good things about them, whereas I have never heard anything good about the CY29cc or the 36mm...

Are you looking to buy a new motor? Or do you just have questions? Either is cool with me, I'm just wondering...

Trip..
 
the 28.5 36mm will rev about the same as the 27.2 stroker maybe a tad less but has more torque so you can gear up to get the top end, I didn't find many rpm drop from my 28.5's compared to my zen 26 though the 28.5 is ported.
The 36mm cy plating issue was fixed a while back...amazing how a bad rep will not die even when it's out of date, the plating is as good as zen now so i wouldn't worry about it....i don't know if other bores in the cy line have been improved though
 
This car is driving me mad! i just cannot keep it in a stright line?? i didnt add any pipe or boe kit yet and it just keeps on getting outa control.... i recently bought new fg tyres but didnt do much diffrence.. every time i press the accelerator it spines.. any tips on how to improve the handling will be very great.

Many thanks
 
Go easy on the throttle or change the sensitivity on your transmitter. With many of the modern computer radios, you can "Affect" how the servos react to your inputs. Essentially speeding up or slowing down the servo.

What car do you have? You may be able to change the gearing to lessen to power to the tires.
 
You need to do some warm up laps to srart geting heat in your tyres first, also you may want to put some toe in on the rear wheels and toe out the front, also camber in...Have you got a set up gauge? also Where do you run it?
 
Its an FG sportline, i run it in the car park... i also niticed that when i press hard on the brake it cut off the engine?
 
Put the sticky tires in the back, stiffen the suspension some and put the heavier springs in back because of the engine weight. I run a fairly stiff suspension and cut down on camber as there isn't much body roll (I also run front and rear swaybars).. I usually do a couple donuts/burnouts before even trying to drive.

I just added a new set of rears and had to burn a layer off before they hooked up. Cable front brakes are a must, have them on both of mine and for an economical performance pipe, look at the hobby pro pipe. it's an fg clone. fg hop ups or rc nuts hobbies sells them for bout $50. I just put one on my semi and it made a big difference. now when it shifts into second gear the arse end kicks out

I wouldn't want to change either of mine away from 23cc. I love the high revs and last thing I'd want is more torque to spin out. Tires make a big part of the setup. Finding a soft enough tire for the back is a challenge

good luck
 
CALIC said:
Its an FG sportline, i run it in the car park... i also niticed that when i press hard on the brake it cut off the engine?
Click to expand...

Adjust your throttle stop on the carb.. (Big silver screw) you are closing off the throttle when you hit the brakes. Turn in the screw until the idle raises slightly, then hit the brakes to see if that fixed the problem.

NewCamera242.webp
 
Back
Top