what oil

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Break it in with conventional (petroleum) 2 stroke oil, after the first gallon, switch to a descent synthetic 2 stroke oil.. The only thing I use caster oil for, is to give unsuspecting victims diarrhea... :lol: Want some Chili?

Trip..
 
Trip said:
Break it in with conventional (petroleum) 2 stroke oil, after the first gallon, switch to a descent synthetic 2 stroke oil.. The only thing I use caster oil for, is to give unsuspecting victims diarrhea... :lol: Want some Chili?

Trip..
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Ah,did you know Trip if you use natural oil then switch to fully synth then you have to strip your engine ,clean every part to remove all the muneral oil THEN you can use fully synth!Fully synthetic will not adhere to the parts if normal oil has been used.
J.
 
voo2doo said:
Ah,did you know Trip if you use natural oil then switch to fully synth then you have to strip your engine ,clean every part to remove all the muneral oil THEN you can use fully synth!Fully synthetic will not adhere to the parts if normal oil has been used.
J.
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Nope, I didn't know that!! Thanks for the heads up!!
 
It is interesting that Amsoil recommends break in for a 4 stroke car/truck/diesel engine for 500 miles before switching to synthetic due to break in, but they never cover 2 stroke oils. They also say you should flush before adding synthetic due to the synthetic cleaning out the crap from the petroleum oils.

How do I install AMSOIL synthetic oils?

Always flush engines (if they have over 30,000 miles on them) AMSOIL's Engine Flush when converting from petroleum oil to AMSOIL. Petroleum oils create sludge and varnish on the inside of engines. Most synthetics are very high in detergent action. They will break loose the sludge and varnish the petroleum oil made in large particles. These large particles will circulate throughout your engine, potentially clogging oil galleries and ports. No matter how good an oil is, it does you no good if it can't get to all the places it should in an engine. If a component becomes starved for oil it dies!

AMSOIL Engine Flush cleans the crankcase, cylinder walls, pistons and rings for maximum efficiency, protection and performance. It preps engines for installation of AMSOIL synthetic motor oil. One can per vehicle is sufficient.

Before you change your oil take off your old oil filter and install a new AMSOIL full flow filter (you will need two AMSOIL oil filters for your initial switch to AMSOIL; you may even wish to purchase a third for your six month/12,500 mile FILTER change so as to avoid paying freight for such a small item). An AMSOIL oil filter will help remove the gunk that the engine flush breaks loose much better than your old conventional filter would.

Then just pour one 16 oz can of engine flush into your oil system (make sure that you are a 1/2 quart low first--the removal of your old oil filter should do the trick) and let the car idle for 20 to 30 minutes. Then, while the oil is still warm, drain it. Finally, install a new AMSOIL full flow oil filter and pour in your AMSOIL synthetic oil.

NOTE: If your vehicle has over 80,000 or 90,000 miles on it or is more than 8 or 9 years old, and you are not currently using another synthetic oil, you may not wish to switch over to AMSOIL. Vehicles with such high mileage may have dry, cracked seals and gaskets. Having used conventional oils for so long (even with 3,000 mile oil changes), the sludge and deposits from oil burn-off may have caused a build-up to occur which is plugging the gaps around these seals and gaskets and preventing leaks.

Flushing such an engine with AMSOIL Engine Flush might uncover these leaks and create the need for replacement. Depending upon your situation, you may not wish to do this. Even if you don't flush the engine and simply put synthetic oil in the engine, the high quality detergent additives in the oil would eventually clean out these deposits anyway. This is a decision that you will have to make on your own.

However, if you are currently using a synthetic oil and have seen no detrimental effects, you would probably be OK to switch over to AMSOIL even on a high mileage vehicle.
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I personally break my engines in with Amsoil Saber Pro and have since the beginning. I would also add that I am using it at 25:1 and its a 100:1 oil. I tore two motors down for ring replacement to see if it was needed. Both motors were spotless and the heads and pistons showed minimum visual wear.

A friend of mine just bought a new SkiDoo Rev snowmobile this year and found they also changed the recommendation for him to break in. He is my Amsoil dealer and they now recommend break in with total synthetic. I'm not sure what is right I just do what works for me.:)
 
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