What paint?

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i'm not a painter... but I painted my helicopter body with a white spray can from my lhs, Tamiya paint? i'll look tonight. then this body needed the white touched up in the frt and it worked great there also.


rampage460.webp


check out this site... http://zielkeracing.com/


he uses = spaz stix, faskolor, createx, pectra... and his work is great.
 
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bensonly said:
thanks for the info and the double check
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Ron is correct - I use only lexan based paints - don't use other paintes as they will flake. It also depends on the body you use, if its clear Faskolor paints by parma are great but if you are going for one color and a spray paint Pactra cans work well just make sure you do light coats expecially on metallic paints. Hope this helps
 
thank you.


i did have a look at some of the ones you did. all i can say is you have some killer skills and more patience then me.
 
zielkeracing said:
Ron is correct - I use only lexan based paints - don't use other paintes as they will flake. It also depends on the body you use, if its clear Faskolor paints by parma are great but if you are going for one color and a spray paint Pactra cans work well just make sure you do light coats expecially on metallic paints. Hope this helps
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thanks for jumping in Zielke... good to hear from ya. I just looked, I used a pactra spray can, worked great for a simple one color job. also held up well to a few crashes with the heli.
 
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The paint will stick better if you lightly scuff the areas you want to paint with scotch brite or steel wool. The paint adheres better and the scuffs dissappear when painted. If your leaving the windows clear don't scuff them.
 
if you have an airbrush the parma faskolor is a water base paint and it don't peel off it stays on the bodys better than pactra i have done my last two bodys with faskolor they still look great no peeling at all :D
 
hamster huey said:
The paint will stick better if you lightly scuff the areas you want to paint with scotch brite or steel wool. The paint adheres better and the scuffs dissappear when painted. If your leaving the windows clear don't scuff them.
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I would not recommend that - just my 2 cents. Wash the body on the inside with cheap non cented dish wash - dry with a clean dry paper towel, blow off with high air then you are ready - then draw what you want to paint and blow off one more time - anyway have fun with it! :)
 
Why don't you recommend it? It works for me and many others. Ive done at least 15 bodies including at least 5 gassers and it works. I did not invent this. Someone told me to try it because I used to have problems with flaking (especially w/hpi). You still have to clean the body well for painting (I use sprayway glass cleaner then water to wash everything away). I have always used Pactra lexan rattle cans from the hobby store but I know people who airbrush with different brands and they swear by it too. I have heard though that water based paint flexes enough that its not necessary but added protection never hurts. The light scuffing completly dissappears when painted. You can find different methods of roughing up the body on the net because as Ive said I didnt invent this method. Thats why lots of people do it that why and thats why Im curious why you don't recommend it. Im sure you have a good reason(s) cuz youre a painter.
 
I do not do thagt because of the paints I use I guess. I use a lot of candy paints and chrome ans it will not disappear when you use these colors. Candies are backed with chrome and you will see every scratch. Like I said, its my 2 cents, just trying to help. Clean the bodies well and you will have no problems with paint sticking and you will not have to worry about scratched up windows or chrome paint turning into brushed stainless steel instead of mirror chrome. I have been painting shells since 1999 and full time since 2001 and have tried this a long time ago and stopped immediately when the appearance turned out like garbage. I am extremely picky with my paint jobs.
 
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