Whats the longest redcat ran!!!

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alfred i got old 37cc sears brush trimmer it has a mikuni carb. on it with a top cap throttle cable just like a little dirt bike.i was thinking about making it a project motor it also has a clutch on it but its alot bigger than our typical 1/5 scale clutches.it looks like it could work but the exhaust hangs low.
 
Deluge said:
I ran the stock 23cc (I have an MT V2) for about a year and a half before I upgraded. I still have the cylinder and piston to it, and they look pretty good. Could've gotten more out of it, I'm sure.I use the "warm it up and beat it" break in method.
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Deluge can you describe in detail by "warm it up and beat it".... I hope its not a stupid question LOL :D
 
It's actually as simple as it sounds. Take some warm up laps to get the engine up to operating temp, and then run it how you intend to run it. I've broken in every engine I've owned using this method, with zero failures.
 
Ildy666 said:
alfred i got old 37cc sears brush trimmer it has a mikuni carb. on it with a top cap throttle cable just like a little dirt bike.i was thinking about making it a project motor it also has a clutch on it but its alot bigger than our typical 1/5 scale clutches.it looks like it could work but the exhaust hangs low.
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That motor is around 1 HP, and won;t be good for any large scale car. I worked for Ryobi for 2 years as a tool designer, and I wish they would work.
 
Ildy666 said:
alfred i got old 37cc sears brush trimmer it has a mikuni carb. on it with a top cap throttle cable just like a little dirt bike.i was thinking about making it a project motor it also has a clutch on it but its alot bigger than our typical 1/5 scale clutches.it looks like it could work but the exhaust hangs low.
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so, is the Mikuni a slide valve?-- no butterfly in the bore? also- is it a pumper carb? What would really run good would be a varable venturi carb. Ford made these at one time for full size engines. A smaller bore has a stronger fuel signal @ lower rpm and visa versa-- carb like this would have to be rubber mounted for the carb- engine to last on these hobby engines.- The wt 813 we use - the accelator circut dumps the fuel out of the high speed nozzle. I have thought about attempting to by pass this. seal the feed hole to the hs nozzle, use the hole that was drilled on the side of the carb body- has a small bearing in it to seal the hole- at this point- run a tiny brass tube out the side of the carb- and into the bore in front of the butterfly valve-there would still have to be a check ball-valve in this -to prevent the lo pressure from sucking the pump circut dry-- just a passing thought @ this time you see?
 
Alfred i got to post a pic. Of it.its a cool setup but rob says only about 1hp.so not worth rigging into a rc.but it has some cool features.the carb being one of them.i believe its a flat slide carb i got to look some more..
 
25 gallons on my stock GP290, I think it's still the same plug too. 15 gallons on my stock CY23 (it now sits on the shelf). I run 50:1 Polaris semi-synthetic snowmobile oil. Why sled oil, because I like the smell of it and because I bought a gallon of it for my sleds 10 years ago and sold the sled.
 
What would be some good pointers on advance tuning like that? And being 50:1 does it make it a lot faster?
 
I'm a small engine tech by trade, so I guess the only advice I can offer is to take your time and listen to how the motor responds. Make small needle adjustments, a 1/16 turn is a pretty big adjustment on these motors. If you listen, the motor will tell you what it wants. One other tip is, trying to tune a motor for best performance with the stock can still installed is much more difficult than if a pipe were installed. It's harder to hear the combustion sound when the motor is being choked by the horrible factory exhaust. With a pipe you can hear a nice rasp and a slight 2-stroke pop at all rpm ranges.

Does running 50:1 make it faster? No.

I run less oil because I don't like all the smoke and I prefer my clothes not to stink when I get done running. I smell like an exhaust pipe all day at work, so I'd rather not smell like it in my leisure time too.
 
Yea when I tune mine, if I accelerate it sounds normal then when it gets to the top end its sounds like its spitting, people have too me I'm too rich. Do you think I should tune it leaner till I don't hear that sound? And on the low end its smokes like hell at idle....so I think I'm too rich all around. When I tune idle I turn the screw lean till the idle starts to die, then go rich till its starts to die, then I go directly in the middle of those 2 settings to get my perfect mixture....do u think I should go leaner than that?
 
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