which failsafe

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does anyone use a typical nitro failsafe that applies the brakes when a failure is detected??? i eventualy will get a kill switch/failsafe, but i have other things i need for my car at the moment
 
killerrc.com that's the nicest setup. I grab a basic and supply my own wire, add an external led and housing to mount to rx box lid. ships fast and cheap (order a bit more $$ and get free shipping) $50
 
A failsafe simply temporarily earths the ignition coil, causing the petrol motor to stop. This should work no matter what triggers the failsafe, including:-
Loss of transmitter signal (out of range or just switched off)
Loss of receiver function (for whetever reason)
Loss of power in car (flat battery, Ejected battery(!) or broken wire)

This is quite different from the failsafe which enables you to apply the brakes and/or steering, because they don't work in the third scenario above, and might not in the second scenario either...

Apart from the Kilkler RC product, here is one I bought:-
http://powerslideracing.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=85_86&products_id=1714
 
The words are confusing... A failsafe doesn't do the whole job (the petrol engine will still run, and if the throttle is stuck wide open, we have a problem Houston), so its name is misleading. Even the one you linked to is flawed, because it will only work if the receiver battery works. A broken wire (or even an ejected battery from a collision!) can mean the engine continues unchecked.

Equally, a killswitch is fitted to every petrol enigne I have ever seen, and is usually a big red button, but what we want is a killswitch activated automatically by loss of signal from the receiver for any reason. This can be easily demonstrated by turning off the transmitter, which must stop the motor.

No wonder noobs get it wrong, and think that the "failsafe" built into their radio is enough. Some clubs rightly insist on demonstration of an automated killswitch before allowing a car on the track.
 
No need to spend any money.
A small spring out of a Biro fixed to throttle lever on carb and attached with a small cable tie to rear bulkhead works perfectly.

Below is from our club website:-
FAIL SAFE SYSTEM

1. Cars should have an electronic and mechanical failsafe device that must return the throttle to neutral when activated. I.e. Through loss of battery power and/or loss of radio signal

Please note:- The electronic failsafe on your handset will only work (If set up) only if your car goes out of range of the handset or loses radio contact with handset for some reason.

If for any reason the receiver loses power (broken battery or battery wire etc.) and the throttle is open, the handset failsafe will not have any effect, but then a mechanical failsafe will work and will therefore stop the car.

Example of a mechanical fail safe on a Topstox. (see Picture)

In the event of a loss of battery power to the receiver, then this spring will return throttle to neutral. The one in the picture is from a ball pen. (Too strong a spring and servo may struggle to open throttle, too weak and it may not return throttle to neutral)

On a Sprintcar or even a straight forward Marder, a spring fixed to throttle lever on carb and attached with a small cable tie to rear bulkhead works perfectly too.
 

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