Which one should I get?

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Rabidfox50

Well-Known Member
Messages
144
Location
SW Florida
First time posting here but I have been into R/C for 25 years, mostly 1/10 scale electric and nitro. I stepping into 1/5 and I love the DBXL K&N buggy. I'm also looking at the RCMK XCR-1000. I've read and watched some reviews on both. The Losi appears to have its issues but look as though they would be easily fixed. I'm not a fan of RTR and the first thing I do with one is break it down and rebuild to get to know the new platform. The DBXL seems to have not so great tires/wheels so I will get aftermarket ones, tuned pipe, rebuild the shocks and swap out the RTR servos as they crap out. The XCR-1000 appears to have none of the DBXL issues and more billet options. Granted it is more $$$ and does not come with radio gear.

Which one would be the best to get overall in terms of ease of maintaining, aftermarket part support and durability? Many thanks in advance and Happy New Year to all!
 
When you get it, my guess is you're going to start using it - basic break-in then full bore bashing?
If this is the case, figure out which will be easiest both on the wallet and the blood pressure - are the replacement parts available and easy to locate / purchase / receive?
Enjoy!!
Al.
 
Losi for sure, or get a X2 roller, and replace all internals with Losi brand diffs.

The DBXL, same as the X2, 5ive, have the angled front shaft, from center to front diff, which snaps every now and then. If you are in for some serious power, upgrade all cups and dog bones with parts sold at DDM. I personally dig the Kraken Vekta, but its way out of my price range, and currently want to jump into electric tunnel hull rc boats, so for now 1/5th family is on hold. I have always itched for a boat, and there are many brushless options at a reasonable price.

I would still consider getting the roller X2 and upgrade as needed be. You should check out the Rovan RS-2050D servos, are super strong, not the fastest, but very reliable. The King motor Servo 45Kg (blue) is a basher servo, but I still prefer the 2050.
 
I decided on the DBXL K&N version. Local hobby shop in Naples, Fl. ordered one for me. I should be able to pick it up Friday or Saturday.

Now which wheels and tires would work well?
 
ONE THING .......

DO NOT use it in the dirt without an oiled pre-filter on it.
The K&N filters work so well because their 'pores' for want of a better name, are relatively large - this CAN permit fine dust / dirt to enter the engine, which can scour the liner / lining of the cylinder and bring about premature wear.

Apart from that, set the failsafe and get a remote kill switch - KillerRC are great for these with the KillerBee - and you're laughing.

Hope you enjoy it.

Al.
 
Many thanks. I have the kill switch ordered as wells as Outerwears and shock socks. I will be getting a pipe for it after I have some fun with it but until then will I have issues with any leaking from the box muffler? Is there a silicone nipple I can install to keep the spew out of the interior or is it that only Nitro vehicles do that?
 
Oh yeah, two stroke, same deal of oil coming out of the exhaust. During breakin, if possible, use regular 2 stroke cheap oil (buy a small bottle at Walmart etc). Once past about one tank that you let the ring adjust to the tolerances, change to semi or full synthetic. The more expensive oil leaves much less residue and the odor is not that bad. Try to stay true to the 1:25, no more than 1:30. Others claim much leaner mixtures, to me its just pushing the envelope and recipe to damage the piston and cylinder walls. The engines are kept at a much higher rpm, lubrication is key for the longevity of the engine.

I hope you are not a jumper basher, the DBXL is not a good flyer at all, its short wheelbase does not help.


(I always follow the breakin process like Sean ONeill's video)
 
I am more a racer than a basher. I prefer to tune for track conditions however we do not have a proper track here. We use an empty lot in which we dig out a small track with no jumps. It does have one makeshift tabletop but nothing to get much air.
 
There has been much mention of NEVER start with a non-synthetic then go to synthetic oil, or vice-versa, but came across this - interesting read:
http://www.controlchat.com/castor-oil-vs-synthetic-oil/
It confirms the 'varnish' build-up on the surfaces by castor-oil-based oils (non-synthetic) which can temporarily protect surfaces in the event of temporary fuel / oil starvation with the engine still at speed, but apparently creates some drag relative to synthetic.
Reading through, this engineer believes the solvency of the synthetic oil will remove this drag-inducing varnish, which was beneficial at 'filling gaps' in early RC motors' poor construction, now no-longer a problem / requirement.

In the past, and I've only had a few, I've used synthetic from the start with no problems.
It sounds like the part-synthetic mix from the start might be interesting.

Using the ratio as FUEL:OIL 'everyone' defaults to 25:1.
This will keep a decent amount of lubrication in the engine, particularly if kept at full-bore / high revs as most are.

Personally, I've always used 32:1, when I do run, which isn't that often lately.

Some oils mention 100:1 - this may work for actual weed-whackers, but NOT R/C.
Al.
 
First time posting here but I have been into R/C for 25 years, mostly 1/10 scale electric and nitro. I stepping into 1/5 and I love the DBXL K&N buggy. I'm also looking at the RCMK XCR-1000. I've read and watched some reviews on both. The Losi appears to have its issues but look as though they would be easily fixed. I'm not a fan of RTR and the first thing I do with one is break it down and rebuild to get to know the new platform. The DBXL seems to have not so great tires/wheels so I will get aftermarket ones, tuned pipe, rebuild the shocks and swap out the RTR servos as they crap out. The XCR-1000 appears to have none of the DBXL issues and more billet options. Granted it is more $$$ and does not come with radio gear.

Which one would be the best to get overall in terms of ease of maintaining, aftermarket part support and durability? Many thanks in advance and Happy New Year to all!
Ive got losi dbxl. It is my first rc so i am learning how to fix it as i break it. Very easy to work on and i am very rough with it and it handles it usually.
 
Last edited:
Shockwears and Outerwears arrived. I am now going to tear the DBXL down and go through it making sure everything is tight and locktited, adjusted correctly and install the Killer Bee kill switch. Shocks will get new fluid, diffs too. I need to shim a few things as well. I researched the DBXL before buying and it seems many have not given the buggy a once over before running which contributed to most of the issues reported. Thank you to all for the responses. I will take some pictures as I go. :)
 
Shockwears and Outerwears arrived. I am now going to tear the DBXL down and go through it making sure everything is tight and locktited, adjusted correctly and install the Killer Bee kill switch. Shocks will get new fluid, diffs too. I need to shim a few things as well. I researched the DBXL before buying and it seems many have not given the buggy a once over before running which contributed to most of the issues reported. Thank you to all for the responses. I will take some pictures as I go. :)
good move....I tell any one who buys a new rc to chk ever single nut/bolt/screw ect as quality control can sum times b poo...evern at places like hpi..losi ect.....another good db mod is the ddm 20% stiffer springs...I jus fitted sum to mine with sum fresh 5000cst oil and they feel so much better now.....
 
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