worked cy23?

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kryptonite5b

kryptonite5b

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so im looking to do something diffrent for the tt. i want to make the best mill a can using the stock 23 top end. i have some plans but i want to hear what others would do.im not really sure what to expect, but my M.O. is pretty boring as i do the same thing to EVERY mill. wich is non-ported 28.5 with eather a side dom or X-can.


any ideas?
 
I went with the chrome 28.5 , from O'NEILL BROTHERS,for both the Baja 5b


and the Rampage.


Both have the reed kits,the Baja 5b sounds really cool, runnanaa runnanaa.The Baja 5b flys and does donuts in dirt,no problem.Have to stop,just to see where it is ,cause of the dust.I have had major FUN at baseball feilds .Have not ran my rampage yet,but the extra weight


will slow it down,but four wheel drive,yea!!!!!


Also bought ported 30.5 heads and stuffed cranks,for both motors.When I kill a motor,will upgrade.Just keep the parts around because they will fit the 28.5 motors


I know I will want to upgrade some day,It's a must have for me....


I don't think the 30.5 kits will fit anything but the 28.5 motor.


O'NEILL BROTHERS has every thing you would need,and online assembly directions.
 
Clubin said:
Get yourself a dremel and some abrasive wheels, or carbide cutters and go to town on that cylinder. Open up the intake, exhaust, and make some eyebrows above the intake
hobbies008.webp


hobbies006.webp
Click to expand...
Is there anyway,you could focus in the pictures.Very hard to tell what you ground down ? Maybe a BEFORE and AFTER pictures ? Is that all there is to porting , what you are showing ?
 
there is a very noticeable difference in an engine that has had the ports matched (making every port match what it bolt to).if you split your crankcase and bolt half of it to your head kit you can see the difference in the ports. the same goes for the intake and exhaust. all you need to do is make everything fit flush. then you can start experimenting with opening your ports for power.
 
speedyd said:
there is a very noticeable difference in an engine that has had the ports matched (making every port match what it bolt to).if you split your crankcase and bolt half of it to your head kit you can see the difference in the ports. the same goes for the intake and exhaust. all you need to do is make everything fit flush. then you can start experimenting with opening your ports for power.
Click to expand...
Then I would want to aline the intake and exaust gaskets,draw a line to tell


how much to grind out , right ??? :eek:
 
YES! anywhere two pieces bolt together.once you get started you will figure it out. just go slow at first and keep fitting and checking your progress.i just finished up an engine that is a mix of everything: cy crank,fast eddy's bearings,new seals and gaskets in an fs engine the ports in that case are nice. if this works okay im going to put a stroker and a zen headkit on it.ive also been using moto seal when putting my engines back together (it is available at innovative),and it is great for sealing everything up and seating your gaskets.


clubin-that is some nice work there!
 
Here is an excellent guide on how to port and engine. Credit goes to Cabbie from the HBF.


http://www.hpibajaforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29161&highlight=porting


Also, Doug, Mr. Earth Surfer himself was nice enough to tell me what he used for transfer port roughning. Take a look at the pic. On the left is a 1/8" Tungsten Carbine cutter like what's shown on the left. In the middle is what I use. It's a shaft for an Aluminum Oxide grinding stone shaft. I overheated the end and the epoxy holding the stone bit burnt up and the end fell off. I just run this parallel to the transfer ports and it does a great job at resurfacing. The end can be used to get into the nooks and crannies. On the right is a Aluminum Oxide bit that has a shaft similar to the one I use. Just knock the end off and clean up the glue.
 
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