yes more engine ?s

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buggynutt

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Ok I have read and read..lol I wanted to know more info on a reed vaulve. I have a km baja with the 30.5cc. As im getting this info I get confused. The reed vaulve goes between carb and engine..correct? Is it basically doing what a boost bottle does? Im new to the 2stroke stuff so please bear with me. So if im correct in what im thinking, by installing a rred vaule and pipe my engine should wake up and get the buggy moving. Thanks
 
My understanding is bolt on reeds do nothing but maybe smooth your idle a bit. A proper one requires a diffirent crankcase and the carb and reed go near the bottom of the motor so you may as well buy a reed case motor as upgrade yours. A good pipe and velocity stack/filter combo will net you the best results for the money.
 
Thanks. What about boost bottles? In researching them it seems like the only gain is better fuel economy and helps with a little low end. Is this correct info. Im trying to build this up for some dune running so power is a must. Can anyone point me in a direction to getting a good velocity stack and pipe for high elevation oris all the info on them carry across for all elevations? One last thing..lol should I go to a larger carb for power or is that not necessary for the gains you get. Thanks for the help. After running electric and a couple nitos in the last 30yrs this thing is like starting all over.
 
Boost bottles are a gimmicky wast of money imo. And velocity stacks are pretty much the same. I use a short one on my 5ive t but that's so the filter will clear the cage. After that your options are race ported head, stuffed stroker crank ( more torque) or bigger motor hard beat more cc's. Perhaps some of the motor modders on here can chime in with more options. My 0.2ct is if won't make an obvious gain don't wast your money.
 
A "Bolt on reed" does go between the carburetor and cylinder. A casereed has it between the carburetor and cases. Bolt on reeds require special porting as do case reeds do to take full advantage of them. Ill add more later after work , but all the reed is , is a one way valve . all engines have intake reversion ,which is when it spits back fuel through the intake tract. This valve prevents that spit back. Which makes the engine more efficient thus making different power.
 
So im running my stocker 30.5 right now and last time I was out it would run great for about 5min and then would start bogging out and then die. I let it cool down and then ru it and same thing. Any ideas, I need this thing to run until I can save up for a new motor..lol thanks
 
Crank bearings and seals or just seals possibly.. Could be a fuel delivery issue but id be willing to guess it has an airleak at the seals.. New engine time ☺
 
tmrperformance said:
Crank bearings and seals or just seals possibly.. Could be a fuel delivery issue but id be willing to guess it has an airleak at the seals.. New engine time ☺
Click to expand...

Engine is not old or driven much so I have a hard time to beleave its gone bad. Im new to these so I could be wrong. Whats a good way to tell if the seals have gone out. I was running it at higher altitude at the time and also in the sand so im guessing it might have sand in it some where.
 
Your tank could be vapor locking the next time it runs fine then bogs take the gas cap off and see if you hear a hiss sound. Then try to crank the buggy with the gas cap off if it runs just fine you know that you need to vent your gas tank.
 
Theres no real easy way to check.. B4 u check there,go through the fuel system. U can start with the gas cap as mentioned, that is another way it will have those symptoms. There are other possible issues that could make it have an airleak if its not the seals which just requires a can of carb clean to detect.. With the engine at idle u wanna spray around the intake, and the base of the cylinder. Any change in rpm and that indicates a leak... Sometimes the throttle shaft will leak and its not rare so if u spray by the shaft the rpms most likely will change,however that leak shouldn't be causing ur issue.. Many new carbs have minimal leakage of the throttle shaft,its not uncommon..
 
buggynutt said:
Engine is not old or driven much so I have a hard time to beleave its gone bad. Im new to these so I could be wrong. Whats a good way to tell if the seals have gone out. I was running it at higher altitude at the time and also in the sand so im guessing it might have sand in it some where.
Click to expand...

rcspeedmart said:
Your tank could be vapor locking the next time it runs fine then bogs take the gas cap off and see if you hear a hiss sound. Then try to crank the buggy with the gas cap off if it runs just fine you know that you need to vent your gas tank.
Click to expand...

tmrperformance said:
Theres no real easy way to check.. B4 u check there,go through the fuel system. U can start with the gas cap as mentioned, that is another way it will have those symptoms. There are other possible issues that could make it have an airleak if its not the seals which just requires a can of carb clean to detect.. With the engine at idle u wanna spray around the intake, and the base of the cylinder. Any change in rpm and that indicates a leak... Sometimes the throttle shaft will leak and its not rare so if u spray by the shaft the rpms most likely will change,however that leak shouldn't be causing ur issue.. Many new carbs have minimal leakage of the throttle shaft,its not uncommon..
Click to expand...

I am going to say the tank not vented properly could be a problem, and should definitely be checked.
The information your getting from TMR is 100% on target, I can assure you that.
The experience TMR has with these engines goes back even before 1/5th scale r/c was popular in this country.
Not trying to knock the brand, but KM engines are not the same quality as the CY and Zenoah brands are, especially depending on hw old the car may be.
One big problem they have are the carburetors, and this part alone could cause many problems like your describing.
If your wanting Serious power, it is time to look at a new engie, and then we can assure you the performance your looking for.
A hopped up Zenoah 30.5cc or newer G320 32cc will rock any 2wd r/c vehicle !
So... If your not getting the performance you are wanting out of your stock engine, it is probably time to look to a performance engine buider, or buy you an engine that is known to perform more like your wanting.
 
Thanks for all the great info. Working on problem solving this week. I got a new roll bar, electronics box and outerwear on my hpi 5b and now moving on to my km. Im also looking for an exhaust spacer about 1/2" thick so my race pipe will clear. I cant seem to find one.
 
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