Zenoah G320RC Break In (Oil Choice)

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Beeley

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Am currently in the process of picking up the bits and pieces required for the new HPI Baja build kit and am trying to do as much research as possible ahead of building/running the kit :D

Have opted for the G320RC engine and had picked up some Putoline MX5 fully synthetic oil to run it with. I was, however, recently advised by a fellow hobbyist that 2 stroke engines should be broken in using a mineral oil and not fully synthetic.
I have tried to research further on this, but the Zenoah manual just specifies oil grades and does not contain any information on the requirements for engine break in.
I did watch the video produced by OBR on engine break in and noted that they recommend Maxima Castor 927. I have read that some people use this oil for the first few tanks and then switch to a fully synthetic oil, as they burn cleaner.

I appreciate it is likely to be a minefield of opinions on such a topic, but was just looking to try and get some advice as to whether it is viable to run on fully synthetic from the get go or if there is a more recommended approach to take ?

Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thank you in advance :)
 
i think you will get afair amount of replies with differing opinions about 2 stroke engine break in mate,
some will say do heat cycles, some not,
personally i tend to do a couple of heat cycles, use the oil you're gonna use,
steady away when first driving around for half a tank to a tank,
then rag the arse off it,
thats the way i've always done it anyways,
never seized a zenoah or cy engine so far ,
i use castrol power1 racing 2 stroke, its fully synthetic and i use it from the first fire up,
i did change oils to rock oil synthesis2 fully synthetic, but didnt like it and changed back to the castrol,
i do run 25 to 1 mix for a tank or so, then down to 32 to 1,
some on here will run a 40 to 1 mix,
when all said and done its what you're comfortable with doing (y)
 
The point to breaking in an engine with rings is to seat the ring in the cylinder, the ring is knocking down the small high spots from manufacturing and honing of a cylinder.

I've let the engines warm up fully and then did a few short bursts then full rpm range and I've done this to atleast 5 engines with no negative results.
 
Thank you for the replies (y)
Think I will just go straight in with the fully synthetic from the get go and follow the run in procedure used by OBR :giggle:
I have contacted Zenoah directly to try and get their 2 cents on it all, will be interested to see what they come back with 👀
 
I use Motul kart Grand Prix it’s a good oil that protect until 23000 rpm, don’t make carbon residual .
In the last I tried the castoro power 1 racing but form me wasn’t a good oil make many carbon residual and burn a low temperature
 
🤦 get the engine to temp and run it. Rings need dynamic load to seat, ie needs ran under load. There's no reason on planet earth to do heat cycles, this is a piss pore carry over from nitro ABC cylinders that have no rings and from manufacturers wanting an out for warranty denials. No need for special oils. Any modern 2t oil will work fine.
 
Seandonato73 said:
🤦 get the engine to temp and run it. Rings need dynamic load to seat, ie needs ran under load. There's no reason on planet earth to do heat cycles, this is a piss pore carry over from nitro ABC cylinders that have no rings and from manufacturers wanting an out for warranty denials. No need for special oils. Any modern 2t oil will work fine.
Click to expand...
i'm guilty of the heat cycle thing sean, no idea why i still do it tbh,
must be cos i is old :ROFLMAO:
 
spents said:
i'm guilty of the heat cycle thing sean, no idea why i still do it tbh,
must be cos i is old :ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...
Just think about what's going on in a loop charged 2 stroke, and think about what a heat cycle would do....... absolutely nothing. No babbitt bearings, or bronze bushings that need to bed in, no camshafts, ball bearing mains. The cylinder and piston will heat up pretty quickly. Then run it.
 
Seandonato73 said:
Just think about what's going on in a loop charged 2 stroke, and think about what a heat cycle would do....... absolutely nothing. No babbitt bearings, or bronze bushings that need to bed in, no camshafts, ball bearing mains. The cylinder and piston will heat up pretty quickly. Then run it.
Click to expand...
yeh its just me stuck in my old ways sean,
need to get outa the habit of heat cycles (y):D,
 
On my 1st two engines I did it too. Being new to the hobby I was cautious and trying to protect my newly acquired investment. After Sean made the correlation to two stroke yard equipment equipment I re thought it. No different, just a high performance version of the engine.

Saws, weed eaters, leaf blowers, etc. that I’ve bought brand new I fired them right up after buying them and flogged them like a rented mule! 🤣 None of them are worse for wear. I don’t really worry about it now.
 
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