J’s dirty 30

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On my engines I just use a gasket between cylinder and intake block and teflon insulator (lightly sanded on glass plate with a gasket on both sides ) between intake and carb , with no issue.
Try that with a New carb , I am sure it will be OK.
 
There will be nothing wrong with the standard alloy intake that came with the engine , just use a gasket on the inlet port and the teflon and 2 gaskets between inlet and carb . put on a fresh carb and I am sure all will be fine.
As I said , had no issues with mine at all.
 
The new carb changed nothing.
I used a thicker Teflon gasket, with billet manifold -
no change in how long it ran for me.
This insulator/gasket is below.
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I swapped over to the zenoah stock insulator, by then it would hardly start anymore
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Starting needle positions working in, because I can see it is rich, eventually it just appears to flood(to me). After it dies the plug looks pretty oily/wet. It’s a 50:1 mix so it really shouldn’t look oily at all.
So it’s called for a 25:1 mix, should I theoretically start at half the needle settings? 25:1 is crazy rich on oil.
 
Those Teflon insulators are a joke, when this happens is the gas in the bulb bubbling? I see your using the ddm gas cap, that ball may have stuck on you, do yourself a favor and drill that ball out of there, over time mine stuck. Undo the cap and watch the fuel in the line, thread the cap back on and see If the fuel pushes up the feed line.
 
The goods
Rep732 said:
Those Teflon insulators are a joke, when this happens is the gas in the bulb bubbling? I see your using the ddm gas cap, that ball may have stuck on you, do yourself a favor and drill that ball out of there, over time mine stuck. Undo the cap and watch the fuel in the line, thread the cap back on and see If the fuel pushes up the feed line.
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i will check these items.
I can hear the ball shaking around in that ddm cap is that good?
The good news is that I’m only about $40 in spark plugs into this one car.
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🤣
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This is a very clean plug I have been cycling around this process that I just pulled from a failed startup. The engine pops on some slow choke pulls and fires for a few seconds on no choke pulls. Bogs out with throttle. It is wet, it is oily. I am lean from base settings. So less than 1-1/4 low less than 1-1/8 high.
 
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@Dirty30J so the only plugs I'd keep or the 2 to the left, everything to the right is fouled. The ball moving is good, if you can see if the carb bulb is bubbling when this happens. I'm finding it peculiar that it's flooding from running and being lean on the settings. It's got compression that's obvious because it pops when you go to start it. I wonder If it's spark related or somehow your timing is off where the fuel isn't able to burn enough before the next fuel/air charge.
 
Rep732 said:
@Dirty30J so the only plugs I'd keep or the 2 to the left, everything to the right is fouled. The ball moving is good, if you can see if the carb bulb is bubbling when this happens. I'm finding it peculiar that it's flooding from running and being lean on the settings. It's got compression that's obvious because it pops when you go to start it. I wonder If it's spark related or somehow your timing is off where the fuel isn't able to burn enough before the next fuel/air charge.
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Timing….. yeah spark can jump a good 3/8-1/2” gap cold or hot engine,so timing is new to me. I kind of figured it was set on an engine like this?
I have basically tossed all plugs but those 2 in the scrap pile, they are merely reference documents at this point.
Why would it only give signs of life from choking it now on base settings? I can get it to pop on choke, stumble over after moving from choke to no choke, and even briefly run and bog down on a rev on no choke but it just will not run. Super Smokey no matter where I point the needles
 
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So if it runs on choke it's sounding like there's not enough fuel to burn with the added air coming into the engine. This could also mean there could be an underlying issue with the engine itself, broken ring,stuck ring,broken piston, etc. At this point if it was me I'd be stripping the engine down to know if the internals are OK but also this is why I don't entertain clone stuff. I know some people will chime in and say their stuff works great, that's all good and great but it seems to be the roll of the dice and luck of the draw with these engines. Unfortunately your luck with them isn't good and that's not your fault.
 
Rep732 said:
So if it runs on choke it's sounding like there's not enough fuel to burn with the added air coming into the engine. This could also mean there could be an underlying issue with the engine itself, broken ring,stuck ring,broken piston, etc. At this point if it was me I'd be stripping the engine down to know if the internals are OK but also this is why I don't entertain clone stuff. I know some people will chime in and say their stuff works great, that's all good and great but it seems to be the roll of the dice and luck of the draw with these engines. Unfortunately your luck with them isn't good and that's not your fault.
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I cannot disagree with this. Some have had great luck with what they got out of the box which is why I went with all of this. I wanted a larger engine without doing taylor$$$ so got this 38cc to start with, as the RTR with the 38cc was out of stock.
I have messaged the seller about my continuous trifles so we will see what happens.
 
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