New Rovan LT45...

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StretchMaK

StretchMaK

Well-Known Member
Messages
127
Location
Warren, Ohio
Picked this up on a whim last week and so far so good. No issues like niz55 had. Only problem is the rear drive shaft is a lil bent so Rovan is sending me a new one. Could use the bent one I'm sure but it bugs me.

Out of the box all else is good so far. No rust or crap in the tank or intake. Only lose screw so far was on the rear diff. All three diffs were topped off and feel good. Shocks feel good but have not pulled them apart yet. All other screws are tight.

First start was interesting for sure. Primed it up and turned on the choke and gave it a few easy pulls. Gave it a good pull and it tried to start. Turned off the choke and pulled it again and holy moly did it start. I think it hit red line before I could push the kill button. Holy moly. Checked everything and it all seems right. Check everything again and all is good??? OK, lets try it again and see what happens. Gave it a pull and nothing, pulled again and it fired right up and idled good. What happened, I do not know. Could my priming pulls have put enough gas in to do it??

A short vid of it running the other day.


Do these need a locker in the center diff?
 
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Has me stumped. What has me stumped is after it went nuts and I shut it off I did not change anything. I started it and it fired and idled fine, frealking weird.

I did switch radio gear to my Spektrum DX5pro and an SR515 receiver. I double checked all the linkages. Made sure I had full travel open and closed. Did make the lil spring push a lil harder when throttle closed before first start also.
 
Well the good news was that it was OK the next start, maybe something got hung up or the piece that was holding the carb fell off on its own. ??? That's the bad news you don't know what it was till it stays stuck. Good thing they invented kill switches!
 
Yes the radio was on, kill switch won't let motor run with out it.

I also pulled the shocks apart and they are good. Fluid is a lil thin so going to look into that. All were full and no leaks yet.
 
I know that, I asked as you didnt mention radio staus in your post is why I asked. Wasn't concerned with the killswitch, I was curious if the radio was off it would make sense that it went full throttle.
 
I got ya. The radio was on. Still can't figure it out. No binding in the throttle linkage, carb feels fine, butterfly works smooth no sticking or binding.

Wierd
 
Just an update on this thing. Been through about 8 or 9 tanks and running good so far. Seems to like it a lil on the rich side. Runs a lil warm even a lil rich. Might put some extra holes in the starter housing see if that helps.

I was going to pull one of the piston rings out for a lil better performance and maybe cooling but saw a single ring piston kit and ordered it and the other parts. I pulled the head off and was really surprised at how not tight the head bolts were. Barley any force to turn them out with a hex driver. What is funny is the two bolts that hold the ignition on were tightened by Thor when he was mad or something.

The piston and cylinder look good? Exhaust side is marked up more than the cool side. I wonder if the first start crazy rev had any effect?

exhaust side
cylinder exhaust side.jpg

intake side
cylinder intake side.jpg

intake side
piston intake side.jpg

exhaust side
piston exhaust side.jpg

cylinder
cylinder 45cc.jpg
 
StretchMaK said:
Put it back together today and it fired right up and idled good. To cold to mess around to long. But she is alive.
Click to expand...

Not too bad ,yea I heard if you eliminate the duel ring piston an do a single it is less friction!.. (y)
I need to check out my 45cc as well!..:cool:
 
Check your head bolts.

I should have got a few extra rings to check the gaps. Best gap was one of the old rings, bottom one but I did not re-use it. New ring just a smidge wider than the stock ring. Compression feels the same to me with the pull start. Didn't really expect any change. Hoping it will run a lil cooler. Anyone know what the gap should be? I also thought it was weird that the rings were both set with the gaps together.

Probably going to do the 45 in my Baja also.
 
Sounds really nice idling.
I envy you that pipe I have earlier version with very short header which burns everything you try to seal it with on header-exhaust.conmection. At least they learned that mistake and fixed it I see.
Don't invest much time/money on that 45cc its.turd that keep on smelling.
Yes you can drill opening on pullstart that's what I also did among millions other things, it will overheat constantly anyway. Just remember to cover those openings with pantyhose to prevent stones destroying flywheel.
Best is to save for zenoah engine while beating the poop out of 45, anyway good luck with car, other than engine its pretty good chassis👍🏿
 
I like to tinker and just mess with stuff. Probably why I like rc so much, always something to tinker/mess with.

The 45cc is just something else to tinker with. I don't race so not worried about getting crazy power out of it. Just something to play with.

The 45 in my baja has been good so far. Might do the single ring thing on it. Just got the Bartolone pipe for it.
 
45cc motors vibrate violently and can easily destroy pipes. It seems better to use a split pipe, as smaller 36cc and 32cc motors don't have the pipe problem. For some reason, Rovan doesn't specify 45cc or 71cc in their recent new RTR releases, so this seems to be the problem.
 
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