RR5 Max Rolling Chassis Ultimate, Fast build for racing at Rocky Hill Raceway NH next weekend!

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crucialRC said:
Well I race also. Drag and course. There are no fluids in the mcd diffs so that wouldn't be an issue. So basically just checking or changing the shock fluid. I understand your fear tho especially if this is your 1st mcd and you may have been part of another platform in the past. Maher builds most of the mcds that leave cardinal racing and he does a good job with putting them together. Wrench on brother👍🏽
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Question for you fam, Why grease instead of diff fluid? Every rig I've owned has come with diff fluid except my MCD and Rovan F5. I actually put diff fluid into both of them. Reading your post had me second guessing myself though as you definitely are more knowledgeable than me :ROFLMAO:
 
The mcd is race driven with track inspiration. I think the no oil is for on the track wrenching. No one wants to be messing around with oil when trying to make changes at the track to get your car dialed in before a race. With the mcd LSD diff it's as simple as lifting a set of gears up and rotating it 90⁰ to get more or less bite then dropping it back down and tightening up 4 screws then your back racing again.
 
These last KS switches were the killerbee’s. I’m beat from the whole weekend, will be a few days before I look at everything and see what’s happening. If it’s the actual switch or a wiring issue. I had two Dynamite KS brand that stopped working also. One would let the engine start and idle the other wouldn’t even start when hooked up.
 
Pitstop000 said:
These last KS switches were the killerbee’s. I’m beat from the whole weekend, will be a few days before I look at everything and see what’s happening. If it’s the actual switch or a wiring issue. I had two Dynamite KS brand that stopped working also. One would let the engine start and idle the other wouldn’t even start when hooked up.
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Haha rest up and prepare for the wrenching. Do you wrap your receiver and kill in foam? If not you should. The shock from running and vibrating could kill them but 4 bad ks's is weird. Lol. I would check your receiver for damage. Maybe the channel you are using is toast. Try another channel or try another receiver.
 
crucialRC said:
The mcd is race driven with track inspiration. I think the no oil is for on the track wrenching. No one wants to be messing around with oil when trying to make changes at the track to get your car dialed in before a race. With the mcd LSD diff it's as simple as lifting a set of gears up and rotating it 90⁰ to get more or less bite then dropping it back down and tightening up 4 screws then your back racing again.
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Thank you (y)
 
misterleon said:
I had a similar issue with my rr5 and w5. I changed the shock pistons to 3 hole in front and 4 hole in rear and that seemed to help. I had killswitch issues also and switched to the mod killswitch and never had another issue after that
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How about the springs? I went to 17kg ft/ 14.5 kg rear and saw an improvement. I was thinking about the pistons, I was going to go down to 2ft /3 rear to see how it reacted. I’m also thinking about the weight transfer, and how to shift weight to the back. In my head I’m thinking to push the front arms back, so move the big spacer to the front or just move the rear shocks forward and see where it’s balancing. I‘m waiting on my scales to show up before I start playing with moving things around. I do appreciate the info on the pistons, it lets me know what others are doing about the issue. I’m the only guy running an MCD here and keep seeing how the Lois’s are jumping and I need to get there ASAP Lol.
Oh, and yeah I already have a mod kill switch coming 👍
 
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Pitstop000 said:
How about the springs? I went to 17kg ft/ 14.5 kg rear and saw an improvement. I was thinking about the pistons, I was going to go down to 2ft /3 rear to see how it reacted. I’m also thinking about the weight transfer, and how to shift weight to the back. In my head I’m thinking to push the front arms back, so move the big spacer to the front or just move the rear shocks forward and see where it’s balancing. I‘m waiting on my scales to show up before I start playing with moving things around. I do appreciate the info on the pistons, it lets me know what others are doing about the issue. I’m the only guy running an MCD here and keep seeing how the Lois’s are jumping and I need to get there ASAP Lol.
Oh, and yeah I already have a mod kill switch coming 👍
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Is the back of the chassis hitting the face of the jump?
 
misterleon said:
Yea lower the piston hole count down to 4 or 3 I’d try 4 first
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Is there anything else that can help with rear end kick up off jumps? I've been trying to combat this problem with other rigs but had no idea where to start. I'm learning so much from you guys :eek: :cool:

Thank you.
 
Moirae said:
Is there anything else that can help with rear end kick up off jumps? I've been trying to combat this problem with other rigs but had no idea where to start. I'm learning so much from you guys :eek: :cool:

Thank you.
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for the most part 2 things cause this issue the first is letting off the gas to early when jumping and the second is a shock issue usually the shock oil not being heavy enough
 
The only thing I hate about racing these things. The absolute mess you need to clean up afterwards. I only run mine for fun these days on grass and use an air compressor. Gone are the 1/8 buggy racing days that leaves everything looking like this, though the racing was damn fun that's for sure. I went for indoor carpet racing instead and just bashing these things ... and RC airplanes. Much less maintenance :)
 
codeman11 said:
The only thing I hate about racing these things. The absolute mess you need to clean up afterwards. I only run mine for fun these days on grass and use an air compressor. Gone are the 1/8 buggy racing days that leaves everything looking like this, though the racing was damn fun that's for sure. I went for indoor carpet racing instead and just bashing these things ... and RC airplanes. Much less maintenance :)
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I only bought mine to bash it tbh but they sure do get dirty quick. I definitely don't see myself cleaning this thing often lol. Maybe when I want some new pics but that's about it. It's hard to do when you know it's going to get dirty again literally the next time you take it out. I think that's why I'm choosing the buggy over the sc for my next one :ROFLMAO:
 
Been working on the buggy, getting ready for the East coast nationals in NH which is in August.
I had encountered a change in the way the engine was running in the last 5 minutes of 20 minute main.
I wasn’t the only one, drivers on the stand were also Chatting about their buggies during the race that there tunes we’re changing, some even pulled their
bodies off , assuming they were overheating. I don't know if I actually went rich since this was the first race on this engine and I’m still tuning her in
or it was a heat issue. Either way, getting more airflow to the engine is a good thing so I decided the open the front windshield and side window.
I also cut into the heat shield for more air flow around the engine. Hopefully if it was an overheating issue these mods will help with better cooling.IMG_7132.jpegIMG_7129.jpegIMG_7159.jpeg
 
Could be more that the air filters were becoming clogged with dirt. That will change the tune and make the engine bog down / run a bit richer. The engine would've reached maximum heat for sure within the first 5-10 minutes easily, so if the engine tune is changing that far in, it's more than likely the dirt you guys are running in especially if multiple guys noticed the same thing.
 
I agree with all you comments guys, we have been discussing this in our group and each driver has found what could of been the issue from dirty air filters to clogged outwears on the pullstart’s /engines. The guys are also saying this is just a buggy thing at this track and the truck class doesn’t suffer from this issue. The trucks ran right after us, some of the drivers ran back to back buggy then truck, no problem with there truck’s, go figure.
Well I decided to scale this buggy out to see how she’s balancing front to back, and what’s happening when I move things around for setups.
I’m working on all the numbers and logging them into my setup book.IMG_7142.jpegIMG_7143.jpeg
 
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