Failsafe needed on a 5thscale

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kreb said:
i was going to order one but i don't have a bling bling baja.lol i don't run lights and such so i just got the cheaper one. when i'm done rebuilding my rc pocket quad creation i'm going to order one cause i'll have lights and things on it.
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WHAT????

You are joking aren't you?? Do you really think that the killswitch is there to protect your buggy??? Unbelievable! It is there TO PROTECT POSSIBLE VICTIMS caused by a runaway!

I honestly don't know whether you should be using a large scale car if you have no idea of the horrible injuries one of these things in a runaway situation could cause.

Please tell me you were not being serious when you say that the killswitch is only needed when you load up the baja....
 
tonystott said:
WHAT????

You are joking aren't you?? Do you really think that the killswitch is there to protect your buggy??? Unbelievable! It is there TO PROTECT POSSIBLE VICTIMS caused by a runaway!

I honestly don't know whether you should be using a large scale car if you have no idea of the horrible injuries one of these things in a runaway situation could cause.

Please tell me you were not being serious when you say that the killswitch is only needed when you load up the baja....
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+1 to this great answer
 
kreb said:
i was going to order one but i don't have a bling bling baja.lol i don't run lights and such so i just got the cheaper one. when i'm done rebuilding my rc pocket quad creation i'm going to order one cause i'll have lights and things on it.
Click to expand...

A killswitch is to proctect your car from any damage to you and others plus saving you money, stopping your car from run off as the killer bee cuts the engine off remotely.. even i know that and 5 minutes ago i didn't even know what it was you serioursly need to do some research.

you should get the killer be no matter what upgrades or light etc you have on your car as all 5thscalers are expensive and they can do some damage in the wrong hand's and right better safe then hurt :)
 
Got to agree with Tony on this one(Damn!):lol: Mine was a runaway with a fail-safe(tranny type) fitted.The throttle/brake servo jammed on WOT and luckily a lamp-post stopped it(after hitting a dirt bump,clearing a pavement,two way road,and another pavement) Damage.....snapped chassis,engine case,upper front plate,steering linkage,wheel,hub and a few minor bits.
I think fifty quid is a good investment in a kill switch.
J.;)
 
yeah, what they said.

killswitch to stop it going any faster when it goes wrong.

failsafe to hit the anchors and stop it all getting FUBAR.

whichever way you look at it, it'll save you money, repairs, lawsuits, broken legs/ankles, dead children, and looks cool when you pull it to your feet to kill the engine remotely when packing away.
 
As the only place I run the car is at a race meeting on the track, I don't use a kill switch or a failsafe - they do cause issues when racing and lets face it, if something gives up down the back straight it'll be toast before you can flick the switch - thats just something we have to live with.
From what I can gather the kill switch will cut the engine in case of a runaway due to servo failier ect. Will it work if for example you take a jump and make the perfect landing but the battery pack takes a jolt and disconnects itself? I'm guessing not, so you would have to have the failsafe AND the kill switch to be sure.

I do think if you're running your car in public you must have some sort of get out of jail card if only to protect others - at the end of the day, a couple of hundred quid for a damaged car Vs a broken leg or worse.
 
remote killswitches are an essential.

I got into a messy situation last year with my MT, a BEC froze the failsafe i was running and locked the servos in whatever position they were at.
I ended up using myself to stop it as there were kids around in the distance :with-stupid:

i'll never run without one!
 
voo2doo said:
Got to agree with Tony on this one(Damn!):lol: Mine was a runaway with a fail-safe(tranny type) fitted.The throttle/brake servo jammed on WOT and luckily a lamp-post stopped it(after hitting a dirt bump,clearing a pavement,two way road,and another pavement) Damage.....snapped chassis,engine case,upper front plate,steering linkage,wheel,hub and a few minor bits.
I think fifty quid is a good investment in a kill switch.
J.;)
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quite alot off damage there mate, all sorted know i guess i see all you guys take it serioursly running your 5th's with killswitches i didn't realize how important they where before well i won't be running my mt untill i get the kill bee i ordered well i can't wait for tommrow my samba,killer bee and hub should be coming show my car should be on the road tommrow yaaay.

Voo you got any videos off your 5b looks awesome in orange all alloy is that the km or hpi 5b.

Later, evo.
 
BrawnFG said:
yeah, what they said.

killswitch to stop it going any faster when it goes wrong.

failsafe to hit the anchors and stop it all getting FUBAR.

whichever way you look at it, it'll save you money, repairs, lawsuits, broken legs/ankles, dead children, and looks cool when you pull it to your feet to kill the engine remotely when packing away.
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Thanks pal, should be getting my orders in the post tommrow,its worth the money i see why people buy them!
 
Mike,a good killswitch will cut the engine in event of power failure,signal failure,low battery, disconnected battery and will also remote cut the engine.Talk to KILLER RC,they'll put you in the know.
J
 
voo2doo said:
Mike,a good killswitch will cut the engine in event of power failure,signal failure,low battery, disconnected battery and will also remote cut the engine.Talk to KILLER RC,they'll put you in the know.
J
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I spoke to them they told me the v1 killer bee is for my radio there proper helpful, if i was to change radios would it support diffrent transmitters say like a speccy etc.
 
Evo,I think Kent(KILLER) was saying that there was a difference in the Spekky range and he had to do a "special" switch to coincide with the Spekky radio but don't quote me on that.
I am pretty sure there was an issue with the Spekky but it's been put right now.
I'm not sure weather you have to change the Killswitch model when changing radio but some are more compatible that others. As said I'm not 100% on this subject.
J
 
voo2doo said:
Evo,I think Kent(KILLER) was saying that there was a difference in the Spekky range and he had to do a "special" switch to coincide with the Spekky radio but don't quote me on that.
I am pretty sure there was an issue with the Spekky but it's been put right now.
I'm not sure weather you have to change the Killswitch model when changing radio but some are more compatible that others. As said I'm not 100% on this subject.
J
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Just checked up on this matter, the v1 only supports some radios mainly the futaba range and hpi but im not to fussed as i will be keeping the standard radio for some time works well for me as i don't really do long distance and i aint to good with all the teckno stuff :sleep: if i ever do need to change radio ive spoken with (killer), he said he'll sort something out.

Laters, evo
 
the V1 is a plain switch which needs to go on a third channel. So it will work with a spekky radio (or any other radio) if you don't use the 3rd channel for anything else (MUST set the spekky built-in failsafe correctly otherwise it won't work properly). I have this set up and it works a treat with my DX3s. Note that battle switches and picoswitches behave prety much the same as a killer bee V1.



if you can't use the third channel (or don't have one) then the V2 killswitch works by monitoring the signal on the steering or throttle servo, and kills the engine when the Rx outputs a bad signal or no signal (a bit like how a failsafe on a nitro works). Problem with the new radios is that the built in failsafe allways outputs a good signal to the servo (even if you loose radio contact), so Kent made a special version for the Spektrum radio, V2-s, which has a timeout on it so it can detect if the radio link has gone dead (Kent is a clever boy).

So worry ye not, there's a solution for [almost] all radio set ups, and Kent is yer man! If you want to know more, stick a post on the killer bee area of the forum and Kent'll see you right.
 
tonystott said:
WHAT????

You are joking aren't you?? Do you really think that the killswitch is there to protect your buggy??? Unbelievable! It is there TO PROTECT POSSIBLE VICTIMS caused by a runaway!

I honestly don't know whether you should be using a large scale car if you have no idea of the horrible injuries one of these things in a runaway situation could cause.

Please tell me you were not being serious when you say that the killswitch is only needed when you load up the baja....
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i'm sorry i must not have been speaking english. never once did i say that a killswitch is just to protect my buggy. read from the start of this thread and you will see that i said it is very important. the killer bee killswitch has all the goodies on it, and the modified pico like mine is cheaper cause it will REMOTELY SHUT DOWN THE MOTOR AND WILL SHUT IT DOWN WHEN THERE IS LOSS OF SIGNAL OR LOW BATTERY. i don't run lights and my car is not a bling baja. so will you please tell me what the hell does running lights or making your car shinny have to do with safety? so if i'm going to get attacked for not having a shinny baja and not having a killer bee failsafe but instead i have a failsafe that does the same poop only cheaper then you are no better then the people at hbf! and for your information since i have 22 plus years in this hobby i think i belong here.
 
went back and reread what i wrote. yep , maybe i needed to spell it out better for those who can't read. now please read this slowly.........." i was going to order a killerbee killswitch but since i don't run lights i don't need the extra's so i will save some money get the SAME THING but minus the extra's it still remotely shuts off motor, or loss of signal, low volts. don't need to spend the extra money for all the bell's and wistles when all i need is the safty part of it." do you understand now or do you want to keep attacking me for something i NEVER said! and voo2doo you of all people i thought would have understood what i said and ment. go back to the start of this thread and see what i wrote there. mine is the 3rd post down.
 
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Evo, i'm not 100% but i've heard the Killer Bee doesn't work with the standard HPI TX, might be wrong but just be extra carefull with your first outting.
You'll need the "S" version if your going to get a Specky in the future.
I use the Annsman W3 2.4 tx and the V1 suites it nicely, its a good budget set up for £57.
 
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