Current KM build, missing anything?

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Gas>Nitro

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Location
Seattle Washington
Started with a KSRC-002 29cc dom pipe etc.

Electronics:

Futaba 3 channel 2.4ghz
Hitec HS-XXX-MG servos, throttle and steering

Drive train/engine/suspension:

Outerwears all around
NKG plug
DDM enclosed clutch
HPI alloy diff case
Dark Soul dog bones w/ Hostile boots
Full Force V2 fuel tank mod
Hostile MX Super Hard rears with HPI dirt buster fronts
Turtle Racing pull start :)
TR rear suspension tower

Maintenance:
Bell Ray fork oil 20w in shocks
Valvoline multipurpose grease in tranny
Fast Eddy 10k in diff

Yet to come:
Turtle Racing front shock support
Eventually custom wheels

PICTURES! haha. Thanks for looking guys, any other suggested mods? :cool:
 
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Bigger the Better said:
Is this what you have done or what you are going to use?
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Most is done already, so far my only problems have been trying to get that HS-805-MG servo in and the differentials have completely different internals. So my remedys to this have been buying the HPI battery box with their servo mounts and buying a complete SS differential.
 
Bigger the Better said:
Did you see the diff was on sale at DDM today?
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I didnt, I got a full one of eBay for $60, did theres beat that?

Guess I need a pull start now :I I cant even explain how much of a POS the km one is. SECOND use and it literally sheered from the motor via the plastic housing.

new additions are in Bold
 
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get one off ebay that has the COLLAR around the pawl! mine borked on 2nd tank of gas, i found one with a collar around pawl and have had no issues since, the collar keeps the pawl from cocking sideways jamming, and bending the washer up.
 
yeah teh TR diff is basically a stock hpi that has some material machined away and a metal collar around it. that is what i have on mine baja. but if possible try to stay away from those metal starter pawls those arent that great (mine doesn't engage most of the time and it was wreaking havok on my flywheel so i have the plastic one back on it now LOL)
 
Lan-Ed-Tul said:
raptors right, you don't need the metal pawls, just need the rope pulley with the collars around pawls, they solve all the cocking over jamming issues.
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i have a metal pawl but it jams constantly and takes a toll on teh flywheel so i went back to plastic and haven't had an issue since. also, a bit of air filter foam anound teh pullstart will help keep out debris, i have an outerwears but ended up sandwiching some air filter outer foam inbetween the outerwears and my pull starter housing to keep out more dust, the fine talcum powder type dust i have here still gets through but no where near as bad as it did through the outerwears alone.
 
lordraptor1 said:
i have a metal pawl but it jams constantly and takes a toll on teh flywheel so i went back to plastic and haven't had an issue since. also, a bit of air filter foam anound teh pullstart will help keep out debris, i have an outerwears but ended up sandwiching some air filter outer foam inbetween the outerwears and my pull starter housing to keep out more dust, the fine talcum powder type dust i have here still gets through but no where near as bad as it did through the outerwears alone.
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I already ordered the Turtle pull start, I read good things about it and if you lightly advance the pull start to contact the fly wheel then pull i think you will be fine. Little rubber attached to the contact zone? Anyone tried this cause I might.
 
Gas>Nitro said:
I already ordered the Turtle pull start, I read good things about it and if you lightly advance the pull start to contact the fly wheel then pull i think you will be fine. Little rubber attached to the contact zone? Anyone tried this cause I might.
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teh tr pullstart is not in my near future as far as rubber on contact areas i don't think it will work. the problem with mine is tht no matter how hard or soft i pull the rop the metal pawl just will not engage teh flywheel and when it does it only leaves about 2 to 3 inches of rope left to try and get the engine started. with the plastic pawl bak on it i just barely pull on my rope and teh pawl engages. another thing i noticed is that teh metal pawl dsometimes didnt disengage fully and when the engine fired teh flywheel knocked the pawl until it went back down (ill try to remember to get a pic next time i remove my p/s cover). one part that has worked really well for me is the killer rc steel pull start cable though :D
 
yah thot bout the metal rope later, but i got a whole other new pullstarter in the wings if this one messes up, but so far its worked flawlessly, since i put the collared one on there
 
lordraptor1 said:
teh tr pullstart is not in my near future as far as rubber on contact areas i don't think it will work. the problem with mine is tht no matter how hard or soft i pull the rop the metal pawl just will not engage teh flywheel and when it does it only leaves about 2 to 3 inches of rope left to try and get the engine started. with the plastic pawl bak on it i just barely pull on my rope and teh pawl engages. another thing i noticed is that teh metal pawl dsometimes didnt disengage fully and when the engine fired teh flywheel knocked the pawl until it went back down (ill try to remember to get a pic next time i remove my p/s cover). one part that has worked really well for me is the killer rc steel pull start cable though :D
Click to expand...

Lan-Ed-Tul said:
yah thot bout the metal rope later, but i got a whole other new pullstarter in the wings if this one messes up, but so far its worked flawlessly, since i put the collared one on there
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What brand were you guys using with the metal pawl? Was it the turtle one or something else?
 
for me, i never had a metal pawled one, all plastic or carbon fiber or whatever it is, but the collar around the pawl is main thing, you need to make sure it has. the TR ones nice, but i can buy 3 regular collared ones off ebay for that price from DDM
 
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