How the h&%@ do I get this to stay in place????

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How are you finding it Revo? IMO the performance of this brake set up is pretty good and definitely worth the money :cool2:
 
I like it very much! It beats the stock setup 200%. No problem locking the tires with only a 9kg servo. Together with the ABS setup on my 4pk it rocks! :):)
 
I like it very much! It beats the stock setup 200%. No problem locking the tires with only a 9kg servo. Together with the ABS setup on my 4pk it rocks! :):)

The stock set up is pants!!! Im on a 15kg servo and it locks up on all surfaces so well pleased with it :D
 
And here we go again, hahahah
A longer run today and the grub screw unscrews again and the brakes are disabled :(

My next try is to file down the tip of the grub screw and drill a tiny dimple in the lay shaft!
 
And here we go again, hahahah
A longer run today and the grub screw unscrews again and the brakes are disabled :(

My next try is to file down the tip of the grub screw and drill a tiny dimple in the lay shaft!

Use blue loctite on the threads then once you have screwed it back in place put a spot of superglue on the head of the grub screw to hold it in place. If you put superglue on the threads you will have no chance of getting it off at a later date.
 
And here we go again, hahahah
A longer run today and the grub screw unscrews again and the brakes are disabled :(

My next try is to file down the tip of the grub screw and drill a tiny dimple in the lay shaft!

you'll be able to file the grub screw but the lay shaft is hardened steel and is a female dog to drill mate! flatten the grub and loctite it and you'll be fine, mine did this all the time till i did the mod on the screw and it's never failed in over a year and a half ;)
 
Thanks again dwarfy! I will try that. Now it needs a complete clean up! It rained last night and the FG are more mud then plastic :) And I can't get my motor to stay running after I did some "tuning", hahaha :) Worked GOOD for about 45 minutes, but when I did a little tuning it stopped as soon as I hit the brakes. Why oh Why couldn't I leave it alone! hahahahaha
 
Thanks again dwarfy! I will try that. Now it needs a complete clean up! It rained last night and the FG are more mud then plastic :) And I can't get my motor to stay running after I did some "tuning", hahaha :) Worked GOOD for about 45 minutes, but when I did a little tuning it stopped as soon as I hit the brakes. Why oh Why couldn't I leave it alone! hahahahaha

Get some pics posted before you clean it!! There are too many pics of clean cars on here :lol:

Follow the tuning guide in the engine section & reset the carb to stock if you are struggling. When you are tuning just make small adjustments at 1/16th turn until you hit the sweet spot.
 
I make sure I grind the end of the grub flat. Then use blue locktight and tighten it down. It should be pressed tight against the bearing.

I know it sounds like a crazy thing to do since the end of a grub is what bites into the shaft but I have always done it to stop the grub from rounding off the ends.

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I have most of the tuning down now, but I didn't try it out to much as the brake disk was stuck and I didn't want to melt anything :)
How do you guys set your idle screw? Mine is all the way in from factory, maybe that has something to do with it? Not the L or H needle, but the idle adjust screw.
In my head the L needle adjustments would come out wrong if the idle screw are wrong.
 
Unscrew it until the stop is not touching. Then screw it back in until it just moves. This will open it just a bit. From there adjust your needles. I think it ends up a 1/4 turn.
 
Set the L needle to stock (1-1/4 turns out) & set the idle to suit. If you have the stock 6k spring you will need the idle at about 4k. If you have the 8k spring you may wish to idle a tad higher at 5 or 6k to eliminate any lag before take off!! There is no science to setting the idle just go by ear.
 
Having your idle screw all the way in will cause issues. It could mean that you are running quite rich on the low end. That may in turn couse you to run lean on the high end.
 
Little update: took the grub screw out to file it down, and guess what....it has no pointy end, it's "filed" down from the factory in this break kit.

And to make things perfect I snapped the pull starter trying to start it after I messed with the tuning. I also changed the plug and the old one had major carbon build up.

Back to the work table for a cleaning, rebuilding the pull starter and retuning.
 
I would say with the idle screwed in and as high as it was you were running the low end somewhere around 21/2 or more to keep the idle down. That would build up the carbon from the amount of fuel and oil that was unburnt. It would however give much needed lubrication. :laugh:
 
I would say with the idle screwed in and as high as it was you were running the low end somewhere around 21/2 or more to keep the idle down. That would build up the carbon from the amount of fuel and oil that was unburnt. It would however give much needed lubrication. :laugh:

You could say its on the 'safe' side :lol::lol::lol::lol:
 
Got it started again last night, after I changed the pull cord.
And the strange thing is, it idles PERFECT now with the idle screw ALL the way in, and the L needle at 1 1/4. Setting the idle screw the way I was told earlier in this thread will not keep it running at idle. My throttle plate just move a little bit with the idle screw all the way in. Could it be this way, and maybe it must be this way after the ESP modding?
And if it has something to say, its a walbro WT-990 carb.
 
The 990 is the same as the stocker 668 and 603 except it doesn't have a choke.
I would not think it should be running this way. What is the H set on?

I Wonder if there is an air leak at the carb sometwhere?
 
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